Rear mech adjustment

super_claret · June 2007

Having a few problems getting it to shift properly, I've adjusted the high & low limit screws and getting successful shifts down (1-8)and also 8 to 7 shifts OK but then takes two clicks of the shifter to move it, then it jumps 2 gears. I've tried increasing cable tension but just cannot seem to get 8 accurate shifts from 8-1. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

Unknown · June 2007

new cable.

what shifter? and what mech?

nick
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super_claret · June 2007

Hi Nick

It's an old Orange Gringo with a mix of cheaper parts. The front mech
is Shimano Alivio but the rear mech has no markings other than Shimano SIS integrated, the shifters just say Shimano.

I'll try a new cable and see how I get on.

Cheers

Mark

wigganjg · June 2007

Having very similar probs.
Changes down gears no prob (9-1) on any of front rings.
But when changing up the gears (assumin we are talking moving to smaller coggs)has probs changing around midle coggs (4-6). Either taking two clicks of changer, or ends up clunking as it changes(and sometimes changes two gears at once).
No matter how I adjust the cable tensioner it still seems to find some of the gear changes to do this !!!
Have Deor gears !

Any advice appreciated.

Unknown · June 2007

ALmost always a dirty or clogged cable. Replacing it, and ensuring its free running all along its length will cure this problem most time.

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Aux1 · June 2007

I read somewhere that once the mech screws have been set, there is no need to touch them again. It's all in the cable. I had my SRAM Attack rear shifter fitted yesterday, it shifted perfectly, today it wouldn't go up easily, I tightened the cable half a turn and it's alright again.

To clip or not to clip, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind of men to suffer the dings and contusions of unclipp'd riding, or to bind thy feet against a sea of gnarly singletrack and by these contraptions, ride o'er them with ease. To clip... to slip no more, and by clipping to end the buttache and the thousand natural shocks that ryders are heir to; tis a consummation devoutly to be honed. No clip - to slip perchance to be thrashed most heinously...

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super_claret · June 2007

Thanks everyone for your help. I changed the gear cable and it's perfect...now I can get out and do some biking!

Cheers

Mark

Aux1 · June 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by super_claret

Thanks everyone for your help. I changed the gear cable and it's perfect...now I can get out and do some biking!

Cheers

Mark
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Right on! [8D]

P.s. how did you clean the insides of black hoses the cable goes through (how do you call them?). Have you put some lube there?

I had some rough shifts yesterday, figured out it weren't neither the cable nor the mech but a lubed yet dirty chain. I lubed it in a hurry a few days ago, without cleaning it... Now I cleaned it with the grunge brush proper and it's butter smooth.

To clip or not to clip, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind of men to suffer the dings and contusions of unclipp'd riding, or to bind thy feet against a sea of gnarly singletrack and by these contraptions, ride o'er them with ease. To clip... to slip no more, and by clipping to end the buttache and the thousand natural shocks that ryders are heir to; tis a consummation devoutly to be honed. No clip - to slip perchance to be thrashed most heinously...

KTM Ultra Flite 2007

super_claret · June 2007

I chucked the originals away and bought new outers as well. I tried cleaning the old ones out but I thought, if I'm changing the inner cable it's not much more expense to do the job properly! Only, it cost me a further œ17.99 for a decent cable cutting tool, but at least I've got one now.

Cheers

Mark

Unknown · June 2007

Often if the outers are not cut properly, the cable binds on swarf or jagged edges. To clean a good cable out, blast through with GT85 and use the straw! Just don't point the other end at you eye..

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super_claret · June 2007

Had that problem when using blunt cutters. Bought new cutters and got a perfect result.

New chain and rear cassette to fit next [:(]

caw35slr · June 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Aux1

I read somewhere that once the mech screws have been set, there is no need to touch them again. It's all in the cable.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yep. The screws adjust the hard limits at both ends of your mech's range of movement, the aim being to stop the chain falling of your cassette. The moving of the mech is all down to the cable and shifting problems usually point to dirty and/or old cables.

It's exactly the same with the front mech.

In winter I wipe my cables down and lube them with glop called CableMagic.

CAW
2007 Orange P7/2004 Giant Boulder SS

Unknown · June 2007

sounds like your bike needs some new cables, and maybe some new outers depending on how bad they are,

My GT

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Rear mech adjustment

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