Update - Cheap rotors

Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

Have been looking to upgrade the rotors on the Giant from 180/160 to 203/180 ready for the Alps in the summer but I'll swap back to 180/160 once home so didn't want to spend too much. Found these so I've ordered a 203. Thought it might be useful to anyone looking for cheap rotors.

Looking at them, I think they're made by A2Z because they look identical to these.

The other tip (although I'm sure most of you have figure this out anyway) is buy Shimano adapters. Since IS and post mount are standards, it doesn't matter which adapter you use and essentially the prices look like this:

Hope œ16
Hayes œ10
Avid œ7
Shimano œ5

In summary, buying a hope plain disc and adapters would have cost œ58, buying the ones I did cost œ24.

Hope this helps someone.

George
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Aux1 · May 2007

I thought of 210mm one for my Magura Julie but probably it would be an overkill for my current riding conditions! [:)]

Btw, why 203mm? To be the same as the grenade launcher? lol [:D]

To clip or not to clip, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind of men to suffer the dings and contusions of unclipp'd riding, or to bind thy feet against a sea of gnarly singletrack and by these contraptions, ride o'er them with ease. To clip... to slip no more, and by clipping to end the buttache and the thousand natural shocks that ryders are heir to; tis a consummation devoutly to be honed. No clip - to slip perchance to be thrashed most heinously...

KTM Ultra Flite 2007

Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

[:D] The grenade launcher and the rotor are both 203.2mm because that's 8". It's a standard size of rotor.

George
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Captain Crash · May 2007

Not a bad post. Let us know how you get on with your new brake parts, as to whether they rust, warp, or just stay the way they should be, whatever. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, as they say. So come back and let us know.

Cheers for the price info [:)].

CC

Aux1 · May 2007

I don't need a bigger rotor... The brakes were slightly underperforming on my 1st downhill because they were just getting ran in, a month of city riding just isn't enough to run them in 100%. Did a second downhill today, they were braking freakin good! Almost perfect!!! [8D]

To clip or not to clip, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind of men to suffer the dings and contusions of unclipp'd riding, or to bind thy feet against a sea of gnarly singletrack and by these contraptions, ride o'er them with ease. To clip... to slip no more, and by clipping to end the buttache and the thousand natural shocks that ryders are heir to; tis a consummation devoutly to be honed. No clip - to slip perchance to be thrashed most heinously...

KTM Ultra Flite 2007

Unknown · May 2007

lol, nice site, dont need more than a 160mm disc though in england for xc riding in my view

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Unknown · May 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tombate911

lol, nice site, dont need more than a 160mm disc though in england for xc riding in my view
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Depends on how fat you are...

My Scott

My Single Speed

Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!

Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

Some piccies. I haveto say, they are nicer made than Hope or Hayes. Cut and etched, then painted and then ground so the edges and the etched lettering stays painted.

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id ... 655&size=l
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id ... 558&size=l

Fitted them today, off tomorrow to get them hot and see what happens.

As for service, ordered them on Sunday and the brake adaptors from CRC at the same time. Both came Tuesday morning.

George
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Anonymous · May 2007

Mad Splasher

Thanks a lot Ive been eying up wavey rotors for my mini monos for a while but thought they were dear when the ones I have are fine. But I'll be buying some of these !

knighty

New Frame !
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Capt. Jon · May 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tombate911

lol, nice site, dont need more than a 160mm disc though in england for xc riding in my view

My GT

feel free to add me if you have got msn,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You're obviously not riding fast enough.

TyMBR

Support the UK bike industry

Unknown · May 2007

Cantis are enough for XC ;-)

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Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

I'm not sure what the relevance of the 160mm for english XC is when I'm buying them for AM in the Alps but anyway. Thinking of heading up to Sherwood Pines tomorrow. Don't expect there's much there to trouble big brakes though.

George
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papasmurf. · May 2007

keep us informed on how you go, was thinking of the a2z rotors as i need to up mine to 180s. So would be good to see how they fare

Meta5.5
GT Avalanche 3

Unknown · May 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ride_whenever

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tombate911

lol, nice site, dont need more than a 160mm disc though in england for xc riding in my view
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Depends on how fat you are...

My Scott

My Single Speed

Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

well i 160mm disc and well tuned v-brake is enough power for my and i weight just over 9 stone[:D]

My GT

feel free to add me if you have got msn,

Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tombate911

well i 160mm disc and well tuned v-brake is enough power for my and i weight just over 9 stone[:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[:D]

To get serious for a moment [|)], the problem with brakes and power is that most people don't understand it and confuse brake force/instantaneous power and continuous power. A brake is a machine in the purest sense of the word in that it converts one type of energy to another (kinetic to heat). A "powerful" brake is one that generates high decelerations and does this by converting energy fast (high power). But whilst it's instantaneous power may be high, it's continuous power is limited by how fast it can get rid of the heat before damage occurs.

To illustrate the point, an Avid Code on a 160mm rotor will have a high instantaneous power but will overheat quickly [xx(] because of the low heat capacity and radiating surface area of a 160mm disc. A 203mm mini, may not produce any more instantaneous power, but can run at a much higher rating over a prolonged period [^].

So when you think to yourself, hang on, I can lock up my wheels with 160mm rotors, why would anyone need more, hopefully now you know. Plus I'm 1.5 times your mass and so produce 1.5 times as much kinetic energy.

Oh, and I wouldn't fancy doing many Alpine decents with V-brakes. I think the rims may get a bit warm and my Camelbak a bit heavy with all those rim-pads. [;)][:D]

George
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Unknown · May 2007

You might even be able to get your rims hot enough to melt your tyres...

My Scott

My Single Speed

Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!

Unknown · May 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mad Splasher

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tombate911

well i 160mm disc and well tuned v-brake is enough power for my and i weight just over 9 stone[:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[:D]

To get serious for a moment [|)], the problem with brakes and power is that most people don't understand it and confuse brake force/instantaneous power and continuous power. A brake is a machine in the purest sense of the word in that it converts one type of energy to another (kinetic to heat). A "powerful" brake is one that generates high decelerations and does this by converting energy fast (high power). But whilst it's instantaneous power may be high, it's continuous power is limited by how fast it can get rid of the heat before damage occurs.

To illustrate the point, an Avid Code on a 160mm rotor will have a high instantaneous power but will overheat quickly [xx(] because of the low heat capacity and radiating surface area of a 160mm disc. A 203mm mini, may not produce any more instantaneous power, but can run at a much higher rating over a prolonged period [^].

So when you think to yourself, hang on, I can lock up my wheels with 160mm rotors, why would anyone need more, hopefully now you know. Plus I'm 1.5 times your mass and so produce 1.5 times as much kinetic energy.

Oh, and I wouldn't fancy doing many Alpine decents with V-brakes. I think the rims may get a bit warm and my Camelbak a bit heavy with all those rim-pads. [;)][:D]

George
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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

i take your valid points there madsplasher, i am waiting to get my rear disk but at the moment i cannot afford to have a new wheel build to i can run a disc brake hub[:D]

My GT

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Aux1 · May 2007

I wish I could boil an egg on a rotor... [:D]

To clip or not to clip, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind of men to suffer the dings and contusions of unclipp'd riding, or to bind thy feet against a sea of gnarly singletrack and by these contraptions, ride o'er them with ease. To clip... to slip no more, and by clipping to end the buttache and the thousand natural shocks that ryders are heir to; tis a consummation devoutly to be honed. No clip - to slip perchance to be thrashed most heinously...

KTM Ultra Flite 2007

Unknown · May 2007

does anyone know what the A2Z pads are like ?

im trying to stop my front brake squeeking so i was going to try some new pads, but didnt want to pay the 15quid for genuine Avid as it might not even solve the problem

Trek 6000

Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

Have you tried a smear of copper grease on the back of the pads. You need to be careful not to contaminate the friction material but it ususaly does the trick.

Imperial also do pads at œ8.50 see http://www.mtb-direct.co.uk/cgi-bin/ind ... 0214154638

George
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Unknown · May 2007

Guys guys guys, what you need is the new moto v2 brake with vented rotors, then you get instantaneous power, but because they are vented they can run at a much higher rating over a prolonged period, the best of both worlds. [;)]

The second thing you need is a motor to get you up a hill as they weigh a ton[:(]

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Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

I've got better brakes than that - they're called Brembo 4 pots and fortunately they do come with a 600cc engine.

George
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Unknown · May 2007

Your brakes came with and engine[:p] I'm jealous[V]

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Unknown · May 2007

Mr Splasher, cycle pads copperslip are a NO no. the problem is that as new cycle pads have less material as new than MC and car brakes when they ready for replacment. and the copperslip will enter the friction material and contaminate it. Also most pad makers say do not put any grease on the backs of their pads for a number of reasons. holes in the back of the backing material, magnetic retaining systems or the current retaintion system.

re the adaptors it would have ben nice if you had included weights. eg Avid have two styles forged and extruded. the lighter version are more expensive.

nick
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Mad Splasherwmb · May 2007

Mr Splasher? Very formal. Copper grease is only a no-no because done badly it contaminates the friction material. The thickness of the material is a red-herring since it should only be applied to the metal backing and only in the centre where the piston makes contact. If you get it into the friction material it's game over whether it's a car, motorbike or train. As brun was advocating new pads, where's the harm in trying it?

Don't believe eveything you read.

George
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Unknown · June 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mad Splasher

Have been looking to upgrade the rotors on the Giant from 180/160 to 203/180 ready for the Alps in the summer but I'll swap back to 180/160 once home so didn't want to spend too much. Found these so I've ordered a 203. Thought it might be useful to anyone looking for cheap rotors.

Looking at them, I think they're made by A2Z because they look identical to these.

The other tip (although I'm sure most of you have figure this out anyway) is buy Shimano adapters. Since IS and post mount are standards, it doesn't matter which adapter you use and essentially the prices look like this:

Hope œ16
Hayes œ10
Avid œ7
Shimano œ5

In summary, buying a hope plain disc and adapters would have cost œ58, buying the ones I did cost œ24.

Hope this helps someone.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Where did you get the mounts you mention cant
see them on the mtb direct site

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Update - Cheap rotors

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