Seized Pedals
commuterlegs
Posts: 271
in Workshop
I made the age old mistake of leaving the pedals on too long and they are now seized. I've tried WD-40 on both sides a few times, and I've also tried heating the crank but all to no avail.
Any other good hints or tips people have used before I book it into the LBS?
Any other good hints or tips people have used before I book it into the LBS?
0
Comments
-
I've had pedals that were seized before now - turns out I was just turning them the wrong way....2
-
I had this.
1) remove offending crank arm.
2) remove offending pedal body (leaving pedal spindle attached to crank arm)
3) try and grip pedal spindle in vice a twist crank arm.
if 3 fails then use a metal grinder to flatten 2 sides of the pedal spindle, then grip in a vice and twist crank arm.
Does mean the pedal is a write off, sadly.
0 -
Use a long pedal spanner I stead of a hex key2
-
some don't have a bolt for a spanner to grab1
-
Some do ...1
-
This is the first thing to checkimposter2.0 said:I've had pedals that were seized before now - turns out I was just turning them the wrong way....
1 -
Anti-clockwise on the drive side right? It does have 15mm grooves for a pedal spanner but the spanner just slides off when I apply force, it’s not a very tight fit (have tried a couple of different spanner’s so must be the pedal).0
-
Yup, ‘right side’ is ‘right way’ round ie a regular thread which unscrews anti clockwise like most bolts. Left is then the opposite.
Double check you’re working out the thread direction from the pedal side of the crank. It will be the opposite if you’re viewing from the hex key side. I’ve also made this mistake a few times. Good luck!0 -
I turn the bike upside down and rotate the crank so it is vertical. I put a long arm allen key in the pedal and hold it firmly in place (keeping the allen key parallel to the ground) and hit down on the long arm part of the key with a rubber mallet (level pointing away from me!). This has worked on pedals that were well and truly stuck and will save both pedal and crank arm if you are able to free it with this method.
1 -
Point crank to front of bike, parallel to the ground. Put Allen key/spanner on on the same line pointing to front of bike. Press down on the end of the crank with your foot while pulling up the end of the Allen key.0
-
Top tip: Whatever you do regarding the above advice is to always put the chain onto the Big Ring. Battling with seized pedals often means the spanner or hex key slips resulting in knuckles/hands/wrists coming into contact with the teeth on the Big Ring. Putting the chain as such can really help.
I'd go with @mrb123 advice as that is the way I do it.Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.
3 -
I sort of do this, except point the allen key to the rear of the bike, then press down on the allen key with my foot. Have the front wheel against a wall/door as the action will try and make the bike go forwards.mrb123 said:Point crank to front of bike, parallel to the ground. Put Allen key/spanner on on the same line pointing to front of bike. Press down on the end of the crank with your foot while pulling up the end of the Allen key.
0 -
Top tip: Whatever you do regarding the above advice is to always put the chain onto the Big Ring. Battling with seized pedals often means the spanner or hex key slips resulting in knuckles/hands/wrists coming into contact with the teeth on the Big Ring.
Good advice. I should have mentioned that I wrap a towel around the crankset to prevent spiking myself in the event of anything slipping!0 -
mrb123 said:
Point crank to front of bike, parallel to the ground. Put Allen key/spanner on on the same line pointing to front of bike. Press down on the end of the crank with your foot while pulling up the end of the Allen key.
https://youtu.be/qTtxoheAG10
1 -
Definitely will do that next time! I've learned not to over tighten pedals as no need.1
-
Yep, hand tight and never had a pedal come loose.
By the way, now this has been resolved, who is going to delete the thread
(this joke only works if you have followed the numb hands thread). 3 -
Thanks for all the advice but it's been to no avail, those pedals are well and truly stuck.0
-
Also, Lifeline tools are made of cheese and should only be used for basic maintenance (or if you're very good and look after your bike before proper problems arise). Buy cheap, buy twice.0
-
Easy way to remember direction is to remove pedals, it is backwards, to put them on it is forward.
Also finger tight is always fine for putting them on.
I also use the allen key / spanner pointing towards the back of the bike and then stop on it!0 -
I must admit that, when I bought pedals in January, one key reason why I went with R550's rather than 105 pedals was the ability to use a pedal spanner. Especially on a bike that's used for commuting in all-weather!0
-
Genuinely do my trick - otherwise the whole crank arm becomes disposable.commuterlegs said:Thanks for all the advice but it's been to no avail, those pedals are well and truly stuck.
Can you still remove the pedal body to service the bearings?
If so, (1) remove the crank arm, (2) remove pedal body (3) take a large sanding stone to flatten two sides of the pedal spindle. Once the sides are flattened, a vice can grip it, so you can use the crank arm as a lever to release.
I watched my LBS do this when I had the same problem.0 -
Yep, will try that. I've ordered a new Park Tool pedal wrench so will give that a go, and if that still doesn't work then the cranks will come off and I'll see if i can take the pedal body off (Shimano M424 SPDs) and get it down the LBS (I don't have a vice).shirley_basso said:
Genuinely do my trick - otherwise the whole crank arm becomes disposable.
Can you still remove the pedal body to service the bearings?
If so, (1) remove the crank arm, (2) remove pedal body (3) take a large sanding stone to flatten two sides of the pedal spindle. Once the sides are flattened, a vice can grip it, so you can use the crank arm as a lever to release.
I watched my LBS do this when I had the same problem.0 -
The park tool one is great ,a bit longer and won't bend .Not failed on a siezed pedal yet for mecommuterlegs said:
Yep, will try that. I've ordered a new Park Tool pedal wrench so will give that a go, and if that still doesn't work then the cranks will come off and I'll see if i can take the pedal body off (Shimano M424 SPDs) and get it down the LBS (I don't have a vice).shirley_basso said:
Genuinely do my trick - otherwise the whole crank arm becomes disposable.
Can you still remove the pedal body to service the bearings?
If so, (1) remove the crank arm, (2) remove pedal body (3) take a large sanding stone to flatten two sides of the pedal spindle. Once the sides are flattened, a vice can grip it, so you can use the crank arm as a lever to release.
I watched my LBS do this when I had the same problem.
0 -
On the (rather large) assumption that i can get the pedal off, does anyone know if I would need to amend the saddle height if replacing with Look Keo 2 Max pedals (SPD to SPD-SL i guess)?0
-
I bought a long breaker bar and hex socket. A bit cumbersome but seems to work really well on stuck pedals
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools/workshop-tools-price-cuts/halfords-advanced-breaker-bar-24in-1/2in-drive-309986.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=wttaxptw&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:|cid:17363835999|agid:|tid:|crid:|nw:x|rnd:9353772905426033648|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:9045761&gclid=CjwKCAjw_uGmBhBREiwAeOfsdxrZBk4JuoEZ12c8kzM0FYNk7-dEpetK9vX6-_6GrbR-7I_sQF_TUhoCvAYQAvD_BwE0
