Test riding a bike: what to look?

I have recently ridden for a test a new bike and, the thing is, what made the biggest difference to what I felt on the bike was the tyres and the handlebar. I could confirm that the geometry wasn't quite there for me: the handlebar was too close to my legs while climbing standing (and the next size up was too big), but that's it. I'm not sure I could say that much about the frame, other than "the frame doesn't feel flawed".

Trying to learn from that experience, what do you look for when test riding a new bike? Is it really only the general geometry that you're testing?

Comments

  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    I’ve never test ridden a bike I’ve bought.
  • crescent
    crescent Posts: 1,201
    In a very general sense, I think I would be looking for a bike that wasn't at the extremes of its adjustment when I was sitting on it, i.e. plenty of adjustment either way on the saddle height, options for a new stem that is not excessively long or ridiculously short etc At least then you will know you have a bit of room for manouvere when you get it home. You will probably ride it a few times before you get it just right for you. Generally, it is easier to make a slightly smaller bike fit you than a slightly larger bike.
    Bianchi ImpulsoBMC Teammachine SLR02 01Trek Domane AL3“When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. “ ~H.G. Wells Edit - "Unless it's a BMX"
  • joeyhalloran
    joeyhalloran Posts: 1,073
    Unfortunately it's very difficult, fit and weight distribution have a large impact on how a bike rides and feels and most test rides don't cater for this that well, you just take out whatever stem they have on. You can get a general impression though, and perhaps could tell the difference between some very relaxed Vs racey geometry and if the size is ballpark right for you too.
  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    Back in the day when you would get a frame made for you, no one ever test rode a bike. Yet you didn’t hear people complaining about numb hands, back ache etc.
    However maybe no body dared to complain in case they were considered a bit of a wuss.
  • Aside from fit, it basically comes down to whether or not it puts a smile on my face. Some frames can feel a bit neutral or 'dead' with little road feedback. Something that tends to be responsive when you put a bit of effort in, that is stable when you push it on corners etc. Basically, once I have ridden it, do I want to ride it more and more.
  • drhaggis
    drhaggis Posts: 1,150
    OK, thanks everyone. I'll keep searching/waiting, and maybe I'll get over the fear of getting the wrong size/bike too.

    Is it immediately obvious the size is wrong, BTW?
  • Is it immediately obvious the size is wrong, BTW?


    If you are on the cusp between 2 sizes then possibly not. I recently bought a specialized allez as a winter/spare bike (no test ride). I usually ride a 52 in spesh but the allez had a very tall headtube so I was in between a 49 or 52. I went 52 and it fits fine but after a few thousand kms and a bit of hindsight I would have gone 49 for the lower stack.

    In this particular situation, a test ride would have shown the stack was higher but it is only after a fair few miles that I have really made my mind up. Fortunately as it was a cheaper bike intended for winter use it was not really a massive issue.
  • crescent
    crescent Posts: 1,201
    I have been watching the Cade Media channel on YouTube recently and they do a BikeFit Tuesday feature. The bike fitter on there reckons most people end up with bikes that are too big for them if they go with the manufacturer's size guide.
    Bianchi ImpulsoBMC Teammachine SLR02 01Trek Domane AL3“When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. “ ~H.G. Wells Edit - "Unless it's a BMX"
  • super_davo
    super_davo Posts: 1,140

    Is it immediately obvious the size is wrong, BTW?


    In this particular situation, a test ride would have shown the stack was higher but it is only after a fair few miles that I have really made my mind up.
    I think this is the problem with relying too much on a test ride. Realistically, how long is that test ride going to be? How hard will you be able to ride the bike on that ride? Over what terrain? Will you be using the same wheels / tyres / other bits you plan to use when you own it?
    View test rides as a useful extra bit of information if you can get one, but only to pick up obvious things; for sizing you can get often get a lot more useful information from Geomettygeeks.

  • To feel how a bike is you need minimally a week or so to actually get dialled into it .
    A recent saddle change took me 3 rides over 5 days to get it perfect
  • In 50 years I've never test-ridden a bike...
  • shirley_basso
    shirley_basso Posts: 6,195
    I remember test riding my colnago c59.

    Every part of me wanted to not like it, or find it a bit 'meh' compared to my current bike (a 2008 Boardman Pro - same model that won the 2008 Womens olympic RR, so no slouch) and tbh I was expecting it to be a bit meh.

    The reality is that as soon as I got it going, played with the di2, sprinted out the saddle etc, I loved it. The setup wasn't perfect (I have slammed the stem, changed saddle and put narrow handlebards) but I knew straight away that I wanted it. Having ridden it lots since, the only great, great shame is that now I am used to it, so I don't get that 'woah' feeling when I ride it.

  • drhaggis said:

    I could confirm that the geometry wasn't quite there for me: the handlebar was too close to my legs while climbing standing (and the next size up was too big), but that's it.

    Have you tried flipping the stem to negative angle and repositioning stem so more spacers are above it? Or fitting a stem that is +5/10mm longer? This would give you a bit more leg space.

    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • I think this is the problem with relying too much on a test ride. Realistically, how long is that test ride going to be? How hard will you be able to ride the bike on that ride? Over what terrain? Will you be using the same wheels / tyres / other bits you plan to use when you own it?


    Spot on. As you say, use them as a guide but with a few caveats thrown in.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    You need to look for a 'stiff yet compliant' ride, and a bike that 'surges forward with every turn of the pedals'..

    Or at least you do according to the bike mags and websites, anyway...

  • It's frustrating as personally I prefer bikes that flex like cooked spaghetti and labour under every pedal stroke. They never seem to review any of these....
  • drhaggis
    drhaggis Posts: 1,150
    edited March 2023

    drhaggis said:

    I could confirm that the geometry wasn't quite there for me: the handlebar was too close to my legs while climbing standing (and the next size up was too big), but that's it.

    Have you tried flipping the stem to negative angle and repositioning stem so more spacers are above it? Or fitting a stem that is +5/10mm longer? This would give you a bit more leg space.

    If I flip a 100 mm stem on that bike, I get the handlebar in pretty much the same position as my current bike. It just feels wrong buying a bike where you know you'll be flipping the stem straight away. Especially because 54 + flipped 100 mm stem (the stock one is 90 mm) is pretty much 56 plus 90 mm stem. Except, of course, getting the correct saddle height with the 56 would also require replacing the stock seatmast with a short one (which is stock on the 54...).
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382

    You need to look for a 'stiff yet compliant' ride, and a bike that 'surges forward with every turn of the pedals'..

    Or at least you do according to the bike mags and websites, anyway...

    And of course the wheels should "spin up quick and roll well".
  • joeyhalloran
    joeyhalloran Posts: 1,073
    drhaggis said:

    drhaggis said:

    I could confirm that the geometry wasn't quite there for me: the handlebar was too close to my legs while climbing standing (and the next size up was too big), but that's it.

    Have you tried flipping the stem to negative angle and repositioning stem so more spacers are above it? Or fitting a stem that is +5/10mm longer? This would give you a bit more leg space.

    If I flip a 100 mm stem on that bike, I get the handlebar in pretty much the same position as my current bike. It just feels wrong buying a bike where you know you'll be flipping the stem straight away. Especially because 54 + flipped 100 mm stem (the stock one is 90 mm) is pretty much 56 plus 90 mm stem. Except, of course, getting the correct saddle height with the 56 would also require replacing the stock seatmast with a short one (which is stock on the 54...).
    May also need an inline seatpost Vs a setback if 'sizing up'
  • gsk82
    gsk82 Posts: 3,470

    Aside from fit, it basically comes down to whether or not it puts a smile on my face. Some frames can feel a bit neutral or 'dead' with little road feedback. Something that tends to be responsive when you put a bit of effort in, that is stable when you push it on corners etc. Basically, once I have ridden it, do I want to ride it more and more.

    I agree with this. I test rode a c60 a few years ago and found it really boring. A few weeks later I tried a Specialissima and loved it. Maybe I was in a bad mood for the week I had the c60, but I'll never know and I've never regretted my decision to get the Bianchi. I loved it straight away and couldn't wait for mine to arrive, despite the rain and the puncture on the test ride.
    "Unfortunately these days a lot of people don’t understand the real quality of a bike" Ernesto Colnago