Casette lockring keeps turning

DDre

I was installing a new casette on a campagnolo Zonda Wheel. The lock ring somehow keeps spinning. the casette is however very nicely seated with no play whatsover. I did apply a bit of grease on the threads beforehand and used a torque wrwnch to 40nm. Is the hub/lockring ceoas threaded?

ugo.santalucia

You've probably stripped the threads... if the freehub is alloy, then it's probably the freehub threads, which is going to be costly to replace.
For future reference, there is no need to torque to 40nm, despite what manufacturers say. I find 10-15 is plenty. The cap is designed with a ratchet system that prevents it from coming loose. Should it come loose, it would not lead to sudden death, as manufacturers fear... it's just a case of re-tightening at the earliest opportunity. I have never had a cassette coming loose

trevor.hall12

Ì always torque them up to 40 nm ,also never had any issues.
Does sound like you over tightened it

paulbnix

I had a hub once where it was difficult getting the locking to engage - I think it was a Novatec.

The lockring came loose on a ride.
I didn't have a lockring tool so had to just leave the cassette loose.
It was an entertaining10 miles home as the gears shifted whenever they wanted. Luckily it was mainly downhill or flat.

I think there weren't enough threads engaging.

Not had this trouble with subsequent Novatec hubs.

i.bhamra

Did you feel resistance building as it was tightening before it started spinning? This would suggest you overtightened it. It might have been faulty if not?

I don't think there should be an issue going to 40NM, it's widely accepted as correct and usually specified. Personally I don't have a torque wrench and normally go as tight as I can get it with a normal ratchet and socket without leaning in to it too much. I wouldn't have thought it would be particularly easy to overtighten!

ugo.santalucia

i.bhamra said:

Did you feel resistance building as it was tightening before it started spinning? This would suggest you overtightened it. It might have been faulty if not?

I don't think there should be an issue going to 40NM, it's widely accepted as correct and usually specified. Personally I don't have a torque wrench and normally go as tight as I can get it with a normal ratchet and socket without leaning in to it too much. I wouldn't have thought it would be particularly easy to overtighten!

The figure is the one quoted by Shimano, but Shimano don't make alloy freehubs, only steel or titanium.
Some alloy freehubs are pretty soft

imposter2.0

If you greased the threads and then tightened to 40nm, then it's likely that the net torque will be considerably higher than if you had fitted the lockring onto dry threads.

In any case, if you've stripped it, the damage will be obvious.

pblakeney

imposter2.0 said:

If you greased the threads and then tightened to 40nm, then it's likely that the net torque will be considerably higher than if you had fitted the lockring onto dry threads.

In any case, if you've stripped it, the damage will be obvious.

Yes, simply take it off and have a look at the threads.

davebradswmb

Campagnolo tightening torque is also 40 Nm on 11 speed, 50 Nm on 10 speed. Though I have never bothered with a torque wrench and have not had any issues.

I do have a suitable torque wrench and tool so it's just laziness combined with not believing that it is critical. I do torque most other components if it stated though.

ugo.santalucia

The point is that the 40Nm torque is largely unnecessary. Manufacturers want to protect themselves against claims, so they advise you to torque the hell out of them, because their parts can take it... if your non Shimano/non Campagnolo hub cannot take it, then it's not their problem... they can always blame it to those being sub standard and advise you to buy their wheels next time.

daniel_b

I've never considered even checking the torque of mine, all I do know is that if they are mega tight, I'm likely to lose some skin from my knuckles when it comes time to remove one.

I just do up reasonably tight, and like others, have had zero issues.

Good luck to the OP, sounds like it could sadly be pricey - unless there is anyway you can get it 'helicoiled' I suppose.

edward.s

daniel_b said:

unless there is anyway you can get it 'helicoiled' I suppose.

There is no way a thread that large diameter and fine could be thread repaired easily. if it is stripped, then best is a new freehub body. you *might* be able to find a lockring with deeper engagement and pick up the remaining thread, but that would be marginal at best.