Right Shifter rattle.

g1032
g1032 Posts: 29
in Workshop
Hi folks
I think my right shifter is on the way out. Here are the symptoms.
When shifting from the 11 to 12 or from the 12 to 13 the shift doesn’t fully index. There is chain noise. Shifting all he way from 13 to 14 and up to 28 is perfect. Shifting down the block from 28 to 11 is very good. No issues. In order to eliminate chain noise after shifting from 11 to 12 or from 12 ro 13 the cable needs to be tightened such that shifting down the block is severely compromised.
Hanger is straight and verified with Park Tools alignment tool. Inner and outer cables replaced with Shimano SP41 outer and Shimano SS inner. Flexi cable (OT-RS900) from chainstay to derailleur has been replaced (managed to find the original in a box in the garage and cut to same length) and installed correctly. Derailleur spring seems OK to me and derailleur looks perfect. Never crashed.
I’m on R7000 setup. 30,000km on the shifter.
I am able to gently move the lever without making a full click in order to eliminate the chain noise after moving from 11 to 12 or 12 t0 13. This is repeatable on a workstand but not so easily done on the road.
There is a loose rattle sound from the hood at the point shown in the picture. Could this be related to the shift issue? Is it possible to tighten this part down again and if so, how?
TIA
D

Comments

  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,065
    That loose section on my BRS505 shifters should be held in by two tiny screws with feavle screw threads going into the shifter, one on each side. I lost them on the first ride after having a play with the gear cable inside the shifter.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    And could that loose section have any impact on shift quality or is it largely cosmetic?
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    Just found this video. I see now how to tighten the cover down but that won't solve the shifting issue.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDXfrfmMecU

    Any ideas on the shifting issue? Is the shifter goosed?
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,482
    g1032 said:

    Just found this video. I see now how to tighten the cover down but that won't solve the shifting issue.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDXfrfmMecU

    Any ideas on the shifting issue? Is the shifter goosed?

    Possibly.
    I'd consider changing the cable first.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    pblakeney said:


    Possibly.
    I'd consider changing the cable first.

    It's new. So is the housing and BB cable guide. That was first thing I did. But the fact that I can get good shifts all the way down the block from 28 to 11 and good shifts up the block from 13 - 28 would lead me to think there is a shifter issue.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,482
    g1032 said:

    pblakeney said:


    Possibly.
    I'd consider changing the cable first.

    It's new. So is the housing and BB cable guide. That was first thing I did. But the fact that I can get good shifts all the way down the block from 28 to 11 and good shifts up the block from 13 - 28 would lead me to think there is a shifter issue.
    Okay. Next potential easy fix to be eliminated.
    Is the cable still in proper tension on the 11 sprocket?
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    Do you mean to shift up and down the block (for example) and check the tension when back in the 11 sprocket?
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,482
    g1032 said:

    Do you mean to shift up and down the block (for example) and check the tension when back in the 11 sprocket?

    Shift down to the 11 sprocket. The spring does that part. When you move the shifter (pull the cable) the derailleur should move instantaneously. Will need additional tension if not.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    Oh.It moves instantaneously. Once I start to add any more tension than is already there I run into issues shifting down the block. Also double checked both limit screws are correctly set (with no cable connected)
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,482
    I am stumped then as I only know how to set up Campagnolo.
    I will leave this to others.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • diplodicus
    diplodicus Posts: 722
    Does it have the white plastic cable guides in the shifter, and if so are they worn?
    Couple of quid each to replace.

    This sort of thing
    https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-strs505-sl-cable-guide-a-right-hand-y03n75000/
  • g1032
    g1032 Posts: 29
    I don't think they go in the R7000 shifters. There is a cable guide alright, more like a ferrule with a long nose that goes in the shifter.
  • diplodicus
    diplodicus Posts: 722
    Ahh I missed the R7000 bit! Obviously just saw 505 in Nobody's post :o

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