Avid Elixir 3 - Unable To Bleed Rear Brake!
Martian999
Posts: 2
Hi there everybody.
I know that there are quite a few posts re the correct technique for bleeding the Avid Elixir 3 hydraulic braking system so sincere apologies if I have missed anything obvious!
I have stripped and cleaned the rear brake calipers, (removed and cleaned pistons), as the rear brake had a long history of grabbing and, eventually, it was virtually impossible to turn the wheel!
As I have several motorcycles and other vehicles (that I fully repair and maintain myself), I considered the bleeding process to be relatively straightforward but I am now admitting defeat!
No matter what I try I cannot get brake fluid, (in a syringe as per the listed technique), to pass from the brake lever, (master cylinder), to the brake line and down to the caliper regardless of the position of the brake lever, (fully depressed, fully extended and with the adjustable push link adjusted at various lengths!
I have stripped the master cylinder and replaced the internal assembly, (push rod with associated o ring and inner rubber gaitor), but I note that the bleed port lies outside the stroke of the push rod assembly and I can't see how the fluid can be allowed to enter the sealed chamber, (beyond the o ring), which is designed to seal the chamber - ad it appears to be doing very well!
As i am writing this i am now wondering whether there may be a small 'bleed' orifice through to the sealed chamber - for the purpose of bleeding?
If this were the case then it must be blocked but, otherwise, I am obviously missing something very simple and so obvious I small missing it!
Apologies in advance!
Martin.
Scott Genius 30.
Orbea Alma Carbon - with the rear brake issue!
I know that there are quite a few posts re the correct technique for bleeding the Avid Elixir 3 hydraulic braking system so sincere apologies if I have missed anything obvious!
I have stripped and cleaned the rear brake calipers, (removed and cleaned pistons), as the rear brake had a long history of grabbing and, eventually, it was virtually impossible to turn the wheel!
As I have several motorcycles and other vehicles (that I fully repair and maintain myself), I considered the bleeding process to be relatively straightforward but I am now admitting defeat!
No matter what I try I cannot get brake fluid, (in a syringe as per the listed technique), to pass from the brake lever, (master cylinder), to the brake line and down to the caliper regardless of the position of the brake lever, (fully depressed, fully extended and with the adjustable push link adjusted at various lengths!
I have stripped the master cylinder and replaced the internal assembly, (push rod with associated o ring and inner rubber gaitor), but I note that the bleed port lies outside the stroke of the push rod assembly and I can't see how the fluid can be allowed to enter the sealed chamber, (beyond the o ring), which is designed to seal the chamber - ad it appears to be doing very well!
As i am writing this i am now wondering whether there may be a small 'bleed' orifice through to the sealed chamber - for the purpose of bleeding?
If this were the case then it must be blocked but, otherwise, I am obviously missing something very simple and so obvious I small missing it!
Apologies in advance!
Martin.
Scott Genius 30.
Orbea Alma Carbon - with the rear brake issue!
0
Comments
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They were called Avoid Elixir for a reason
I’m not familiar with bleeding them as I gave mine away. The SRAM manual suggests;
“For models equipped with Reach Adjust, make sure the tip of the lever blade is 75-80 mm from the centerline of the handlebar. If the lever is too far out, it can make bleeding the brake impossible.”
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You should be bleeding from the bottom up .i.e. calliper to lever.
THIS GUIDE from Epic is good.
I had Elixir brakes years ago on a Stumpjumper. Great when working but an utter pain in the arse when the ambient temperature rose above about 15degC. The hydraulic fluid expands and forces the pistons out, locking the pads on the rotor. The solution was to bleed a bit of fluid out from the lever. However, I then had a brake with too much throw when the temperature dropped again.
Best thing I ever did was throw them in the bin and replace them with Shimano SLX.
“Life has been unfaithful
And it all promised so so much”
Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 20091 -
Many of the posts re Avid do appear a little negative!
I may look for an alternative make master cylinder and caliper that will fit the current Avid caliper mounts on the rear of the Orbea!
I have seen some of the lower spec Shimano hydraulic sets going for a good price?0 -
The calliper mount is not Avid-specific. It will be either an IS mount or a Post Mount.
What year is the bike?
“Life has been unfaithful
And it all promised so so much”
Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 20090
