question of integrated cockpit removal

pep.fermi

My current bike has separate stem + handlebar, rather than integrated cockpit.
I sometimes disassemble and pack the bike for travel, and for this I normally take off the handlebar. No need to remove the stem. This is good because removing the stem would losen the fork, which I prefer not to.

Say the bicycle has instead integrated cockpit. Would cockpit removal losen the fork, or is the fork kept fixed in place some other way?

Thanks,
Alberto

sungod

depends on the bike box, there's a bba one that allows the bars to stay in place, makes it a pretty big box though

i've got integrated bars, i just remove them to fit in a normal bba case, i fit a spacer the same height as the bar steerer clamp onto the steerer then fit the top cap to keep the fork in place

i.bhamra

Can you get away with just loosening the stem bolts and rotating the bar 90 degrees to the fork steerer?

pep.fermi

Thanks.
I have a bag already (bag, not box), and I know I need to remove the handlebar.

Do I get it right that your work does get lose if you don't put the top cap back?

pep.fermi

i.bhamra said:

Can you get away with just loosening the stem bolts and rotating the bar 90 degrees to the fork steerer?

Good point but no.
The fork top tube, the one where the cockpit (or stem) attaches, is not round, so no one can't rotate the cockpit.

sungod

pep.fermi said:

Thanks.
I have a bag already (bag, not box), and I know I need to remove the handlebar.

Do I get it right that your work does get lose if you don't put the top cap back?

i remove the bars from the steerer, then put spacers on the steerer that are the same height as the steerer clamp, then put back the top cap to secure it

it keeps the headset bearings and other parts in place and stops the fork moving up/down during transport

the spacers are just basic ones like this...

pep.fermi

Thanks sungod.
Yes, this is indeed what I understood already.
Tricky thing with what you write (and maybe I'm wrong, in case please correct me) is that the torque on the top cap must be just right: too hard and the fork won't steer well, too soft and it shakes when it shouldn't. To tighten with the optimum torque you should have a calibrated wrench (I don't have it).
This is the reason why I'm happier to have a stem and to keep it in place.

Munsford0

Tightening the top cap isn't really a torque wrench job, just do it with an allen key till you've removed any play when rocking the bike on the front brake.

The stem bolts on the other hand might require a torque wrench...

MattFalle

if the latter, grab yourself a Ritchey tourque key or similar and that'll be perfect nd you don't need a wrench - t/k is cheper less faff to use, msller.

sungod

pep.fermi said:

Thanks sungod.
Yes, this is indeed what I understood already.
Tricky thing with what you write (and maybe I'm wrong, in case please correct me) is that the torque on the top cap must be just right: too hard and the fork won't steer well, too soft and it shakes when it shouldn't. To tighten with the optimum torque you should have a calibrated wrench (I don't have it).
This is the reason why I'm happier to have a stem and to keep it in place.

you only need to tighten the top cap bolt until there's a some resistance

with a torque wrench maybe just 1 to 2 newton metres (which is not much)

but no need for a torque wrench, it's easy to do by feel...

when you re-assemble after transport, tighten top cap until you feel some resistance

clamp the stem, test by pushing forward on the bars with the front brake full on

if you feel any play in the headset, loosen stem clamp and tighten the top cap a little, a quarter or half turn a a time

just repeat as until there's no play, it only takes a few minutes

after you've done it once, it'll be really easy next time

pep.fermi

Ok, thanks a lot.
Alberto