Suggestions for a used road bike
impiety-peck.06
Posts: 22
I’ve been looking for my first road bike. I’d like to buy used since I’m not sure how long I’ll keep it going . I’d need something on the smaller side 50cm or smaller since I’m about 5’2” on a good day!
I’ve tried several brands and the Specialized Allez feels pretty good so far. But I wanted to see what others might suggest.
Budget $500
Previous rides: mountain bike and BMX
Height: 5’2”
I’ve tried several brands and the Specialized Allez feels pretty good so far. But I wanted to see what others might suggest.
Budget $500
Previous rides: mountain bike and BMX
Height: 5’2”
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Comments
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As most people on here are UK based. It will be difficult to know what you get for 500 dollars.0
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At 5'2" you would almost certainly need a frame size smaller than 50cm in most brands, in specialized (as you mention an allez) you would need a size 49cm.0
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Thank you for the suggestion, it would the equivalent of 405 British Pounds
Thanh’s for the sizing recommendation on the sizing for the Alkez!0 -
Specialized Allez would be a great start as would one of the Cannondale CAAD models. I had a CAAD 10 and loved it. Still regret selling it, although did replace with a Cannondale SuperSix which I also love!
I got back into road cycling from mtb on a Specialized Secteur which was super comfortable. I quickly fell in love with road cycling and sold the Secteur to move up to the CAAD 10 which was just a quicker bike. Secteur or Specialized Roubaix might also make good starting points too as you adapt.
BW!0 -
If you can get an Allez and like how it felt no need to look any further. To a large extent at a given price point one road bike is much like another but an Allez has a good reputation as an entry level bike you could race or go out with fast training groups on.[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]0
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Oops, wrong thread!================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
As above, an Allez or CAAD but I am not sure how likely you would find one to fit your budget (unless you already have some options?).
Second hand prices are crazy in the UK due to bike shortages, I think you may see the same in the states.
You'd likely have to double your budget would be my guess to get a decent used bike.
Otherwise you may need to consider something pretty old that someone was looking to get rid of. You'd then probably have to replace parts which would add to the cost.
Have you got a local bike shop that might have some used bikes or know some local riders who may have something they are willing to sell?
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Both the Allez and CAAD sre very very good choices - I've currently got 2 old CAADs for sentimental value but they are still a mega gravy granular thing to ride.
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Many thanks for the suggestions! I think I would be quite happy with either the Allez or a CAAD 10. But as was mentioned, used prices have risen quite rapidly. Allez in my price range have been 2005-2010 era. CASDs have been out of range. I just have to be patient and skulk the Craigslists, etc!
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!0 -
An older CAAD is still mega - doesn't have to be a 10.
They're brilliant to ride, fun, cheap.
Even if you get a scratched up one for a couple of hundred get it powder coated , new stickers off the 'Bay, new cables, chain and cassette, new bar tape - a mega sweet ride well on budget.
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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This might be a tougher question but how old of a bije would you be willing to purchase, if it appears to be in good working order?0
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As old as you like - I must admit for decent road riding, maybe 2000 as earliest?
I have a 2002 Pinarello Prince and its as good as my 2018/19 Cervelo S3
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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That’s good to hear. I’ve sent several old USA Made R***series bikes but a lot of them are early 2000s age-wise
I’ve also seen a nice 2005 Alllez Comp with the Columbus E5 frame, but the seller was asking $600 which seems a bit steep?0 -
Sorry 486 pounds0
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Tbh, price depends on condition - if you have yo start replacing chains, cassettes, c'rings, tyres, even small things like pads and handlebar tape, it all adds up.
If you can do the work yourself that's groovy bananas, but if you have to pay someone thats a bit more on top, espesh if you have to pay shop prices for parts not 'net prices....
if its a nice, clean frame with decent running gear as above its better to pay a bit more than, say, a $400 frame with worn out bits..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Tbh, price depends on condition - if you have yo start replacing chains, cassettes, c'rings, tyres, even small things like pads and handlebar tape, it all adds up.
What MF says is correct. I also wouldn't worry too much about age, it is the condition of the bike you should focus on. A 20 year old bike that was barely used and then stuck in a garage is better than a 10 year old bike that has been ridden to death and badly maintained.
If you are looking at older bikes, look at things like older aluminium Trek frames if any pop up, things like the 500 or 1100, which were the starter alloy models back in around 2000ish.0 -
I got a used Allez the other week for £150 - ok it's 8 speed claris - replaced the chain, bought some no name rings (think they were a tenner the pair - they are steel - might go for something better if I was using it on the road rather than the trainer ) and a second hand as new cassette and it's fine - under £190 all in.
If I'd wanted something without replacing parts there were plenty of Boardman's etc barely used not much over £200.
So there are still entry level road bikes around pretty cheap. I agree if you want something half decent prices have gone a bit silly . Just take your time - don't get sucked into paying top dollar for stuff on it's last legs.
My best bike is a Neil Pryde Bura SL - the brand didn't last hence you can pick them up cheap second hand ( I bought mine new with a massive discount) but they are a great bike - super light, stiff, the most confidence inspiring bike for descending I've ridden. If you could get one of them with say Ultegra (yes I like Campag too Matt but it narrows the market a lot second hand) in decent nick you'd be laughing.[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]1 -
Truly appreciate the advice chaps! It’s nice to hear that some of the older bikes can hold up well. I’ve run across a few of those lately but haven’t pulled the trigger quick enough. All in the name of gaining experience and learning!
If you think of any others please let me know. And I’ll be sure to post what I eventually purchase.0 -
Just wanted to update the post. I was fortunate to pick up a 2016 BMC Timemachine SLR03 in a size that fits me well. The bike was very well kept so it’s ready to ride.
Thanks so much for your input. I truly appreciate the words of wisdom!1 -
Mega sauce! Quite granular tbh.
Any piccies please?.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Here’s a couple of shots
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I’m afraid I’m not the best at capturing images0
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Enjoy it. I hade an alloy BMC frame a few years back. It was a great little bike, good value for money and the quality of the paintwork was excellent.
MF will be along in a minute to tell you to slam the stem, put some black bar tape on and get rid of the saddle bag!1 -
It foes look v cool tbh - nice purchase.
I'd rotate the bars down as a start tbh, flatten off the position. Then deffo yes re slamming, tape and bag!
But overall, pretty darn cool..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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What's wrong with saddle bags....I don't have one yet.......0
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they'reshit.
if you want anysemblance of self respect, don't do it.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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The purists who like to pretend they look like TDF riders prefer to stuff their spare tubes, pumps, repair kits, multitools etc in the rear pockets of their jerseys, and insist that nothing extraneous be attached to the bike at all.
I'm in the other, more practical camp. Full mudguards and an old school Carradice saddle bag which I can fill with whatever I might need out on the road. Nobody will ever mistake me for a professional rider0 -
The purists who like to pretend they look like TDF riders prefer to stuff their spare tubes, pumps, repair kits, multitools etc in the rear pockets of their jerseys, and insist that nothing extraneous be attached to the bike at all.
Exactly right. All extraneous weight must be carried about the person. Only 2 bidons and a computer may be attached to the bike.
During GMT from October to March, bike lights may also be permitted. This is strictly for a winter bike ONLY. All summer bikes must be light free and rides completed before dusk to avoid their necessity. 😀1 -
pump?Munsford0 said:The purists who like to pretend they look like TDF riders prefer to stuff their spare tubes, pumps, repair kits, multitools etc in the rear pockets of their jerseys, and insist that nothing extraneous be attached to the bike at all.
I'm in the other, more practical camp. Full mudguards and an old school Carradice saddle bag which I can fill with whatever I might need out on the road. Nobody will ever mistake me for a professional rider
repair kits?
spare tubes?
eh?
total madness
2x Co2 canisters
2x cans of foam
1x small multitool
all in a small pouch thang that i'll pop a piccie up of to increase my post count
if i'm heading out to do something random, i'll tape a pretaped tub under the saddle or stick it in a back pocket.
1x telephone with card and a tenner stuck in it
done
no one pretends they are a TdF rider they just don't want a bike covered inshit..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Great frame.
I'm going to call out the bar tape though. No Bianchi. No coordination. No black. Just No.0