Spongy TRP Spyre R160 Performance

RayKinsella

Hi folks,

I have a Cube Attain Race with TRP Spyre R160 mechanical discs brakes. I have been pretty disappointed with the rear braking performance, to the extent were I can be bearing down on the brake level and hardly registering any rear braking at all. I stripped down and cleaned off the brake caliper with alcohol, with almost no effect, I also tuned the pitch point which also had no effect.

My other bike (Tricross) has rear v-brakes, which perform much better compared to the Cube. Is it the case that mechanical discs brakes are just bad, or is it just the TRP Spyre's? What should I be doing?

Thanks,



Ray K

ugo.santalucia

Compressionless outer cables help... Jagwire make some

RayKinsella

Do they really help that much?

Is there anything to be said for kool stop pads?

woodywmb

Use compression less cables. Straighten out bends in the cable run. Pay particular attention to where the outer goes in and out of the frame - and where it turns up sharply to bolt onto the caliper. Pull the caliper lever back to introduce a little preload into the system before tightening the bolt. (The manufacturer recommends you don't do this. I do -
with good results. Also keeps the bar lever from rattling). Plain Shimano organic pads do the job fine. Ensure the pads are equally spaced either side of the rotor using 3m hex key. Bring pads even closer together using fingertip adjuster. Pads need hard braking over a distance to build in some bite. Never looked back since I changed cables two years ago.

oxoman

You say you've cleaned the caliper but what about the disc and the pads. TBH my TCX used to run TRP,s with no issues as long as I kept them clean and adjusted. Have the pads glazed or got contaminated with oil or grease.

ugo.santalucia

RayKinsella said:

Do they really help that much?

Is there anything to be said for kool stop pads?

They do help reducing sponginess significantly

ed1973

Coming from the MTB world to road. Most issues with disc brakes not working well came down to contaminated pads. I’ve tried many a time to clean pads, deglaze pads, sand pads, heat pads to red hot etc but had little success. Best option is to replace the pads and bed them in properly. They are inexpensive thing to get but if looked after properly will last a long time. Never spray water directly at your cassette as this is a sure way to send oil and other cassette detritus into the caliper and onto you pads.

mr_eddy

As others stated non compression hosing - dont need to spend lots on Jagwire Pro etc just gear outer cabling works (also non compression) then add in a set of green Swiss Stop pads (nothing comes close to these pads). Done right this setup on those brakes is bang on, as much power and modulation as you would ever need.

I did this exact thing on my Merlin gravel bike (now since sold sadly) and the braking was bang on, nice and firm and easily enough to bring my 95kg ar$3 to a stop

ugo.santalucia

mr_eddy said:

As others stated non compression hosing - dont need to spend lots on Jagwire Pro etc just gear outer cabling works (also non compression) then add in a set of green Swiss Stop pads (nothing comes close to these pads). Done right this setup on those brakes is bang on, as much power and modulation as you would ever need.

I did this exact thing on my Merlin gravel bike (now since sold sadly) and the braking was bang on, nice and firm and easily enough to bring my 95kg ar$3 to a stop

Does the gear outer take a brake cable, which is wider than a gear cable?