Narrower handlebars - longer stem?

bianchi_dave

I'm about to order Syncros Creston IC SL bars (one piece carbon jobbies) for my Addict RC but unsure on virtual stem length.

Currently running standard alloy Creston IC 110mm stem and 420mm bars (with hoods turned in for comfort as they're too wide).

I'll be going narrower, to 380mm width, and as the SL has 5mm more reach, and I don't particularly want to go longer, I was going to go for the 100mm effective stem length (so 5mm shorter than current set up).

However, I'm now wondering if I should just stick with 110mm, as the 5mm additional reach could be offset by the narrower bars.

Anyone have any thoughts on this, or experience of needing to fit a longer stem having fitted narrower bars??

daniel_b

Spooky, I am doing almost exactly the same thing as you.

Technically Scott claim there is zero difference in the stem length of the separates and the Creston ICSL, but having researched it a LOT, I came to the same 5mm conclusion as you.

There is an excellent, Foil & Addict facebook page that I would recommend you join - a lot of expertise on there.

I'm going for a 400mm/100mm option, I nearly went for a 90, but having analysed all of the measurements in a lot of detail, have plumped for the 400/100 - I'm pretty sure it will be perfect, and a the cost it is, and the time it takes to get them, it wasn't something I wanted to make a mistake on.
I'd be surprised if 1cm narrower each side would make 'enough' of a difference in reach to mean you needed a 110, but just my opinion.
Having said all that, I can also see your thought process on that, but I think it would be the flip of a coin, as I suspect you would be fine with either.

In theory mine was going to be available to order in February, but that has been and gone, so I'll chase them next month for updates on that and the bike.

Where are you sourcing yours from, which country are you in, and when do you think you might receive it?

bianchi_dave

Hi Daniel
I recall you mentioning that FB page before, when I was selling my Foil. I never did check it out, as I don't 'do' FB!

Anyhow, I kept the Foil and made it fit perfectly by removing the one piece bar/stem and replacing with a 120mm stem and 80mm reach bars.
Been doing a bit more measuring this pm (stuck inside with bloody covid). The geometry geeks site is really good as you can compare frame measurements against each other.

My Foil (52S) has a reach of 384 and eff TT of 535. When the stem and bar reach is added this gives 584mm of total reach and 735mm eff TT plus stem and bars.
My Addict RC (54M) has a reach of 390 and eff TT of 550. The Creston SL (stem of 110mm and bar reach of 75mm) gives 575mm total reach (surprisingly 9mm less than the Foil) and, drum roll - the same 735mm for eff TT plus stem/bar combo.

So I guess I'll be sticking with 110 stem length on my Addict RC, although I can't help thinking the bigger hydraulic shifters on my Addict should also be taken into account. My Foil runs DA9100 mechanical rim, and the shifters feel tiny these days!

I'm in the UK, but the best price I've found for the Creston SL is on Bike24, who recently started shipping here once more. They include UK VAT, and delivery is only £2.40 (yes, you read that correct!).

Even better if you wanted 380mm as these are 416EUR currently, so works out about £350 (inc VAT). In the event I got stung with additional shipping/admin costs, it would still be miles cheaper than buying them here.

Another place worth checking out is proownedcycling.com, who sell ex team bikes and components. Worth bearing in mind that their bars only come with the headset top cap and NOT the spacers, which are different from the standard IC ones. They do stock the kits however. They also include UK VAT at checkout, so nothing further to pay (in theory at least!).

From a customs standpoint, it appears the Syncros bars are actually made in Spain, so being within the EU, there is no 'country of origin' issues. Had they been made outwith, there would be a 4.7% tariff (I think).

Like you, given the high price of these things I'm keen to get the correct size first time, especially if buying from the EU.

whyamihere

Theoretically you could get away with a slightly longer stem with a narrower bar. However, I'd be pretty wary of spending £350 without knowing the fit perfectly. It might be worth trying to find the cheapest possible bar with width/reach numbers as close as possible, as well as a dirt cheap 100mm stem. At least try the various combinations for an hour or so on the turbo and then sell the extra bits.

bianchi_dave

I'm very confident the 110 stem is the one
Just need to summon up the courage to make the switch now, as I don't think its the easiest upgrade to make. The bike runs DA 9120 (mechanical) and I'm thinking -

1. Remove gear inners, leaving outers in place initially - I'm fairly sure the mech outers go all the way through the frame.
2. Undo brake hoses at the shifters and cut off ends, as the bolts and olives won't go through the bars/stem. Plug the ends and tape them up (to stop brake fluid pishing everywhere!) I'll have plenty hose to play with as I've already removed spacers and the new bars will 4cm shorter at each side in any case.
3. Pull gear outers and hoses out of the existing bars and stem, and remove the IC stem from steerer.
4. Feed hoses and gear outers through the SL cockpit and then attach stem clamp to steerer (again I'm confident there will be sufficient slack).
5. Fit shifters onto new bars.
6. Re fit gear cable inners (outers might need a trim if too long).
7. Re attach brake hoses with new olives and barbs.
8. Carry out lever bleed to chase out any air bubbles.

Sounds fairly simple in theory, but I'm under no illusion it won't be time consuming, and there will be lots of swearing

me-109

Take a look at the brake hose at the shifter end first. Don't know about Shimano but the SRAM ones are crimped fittings and non-replaceable, so you have to split at the caliper. At least you can undo the banjo at that end.

bianchi_dave

me-109 said:

Take a look at the brake hose at the shifter end first. Don't know about Shimano but the SRAM ones are crimped fittings and non-replaceable, so you have to split at the caliper. At least you can undo the banjo at that end.

The Shimano ones have a bolt at the shifter end.
The olive and barb are not meant to be used again, but plenty folk do, if it's being attached as it was.
I will certainly need to shorten the hoses so definitely new olives and barb inserts.