Road bike stem length

gerryhughes67

Hi folks, relatively newbie to cycling so looking for a little advice. I have a 17 year old Claud Butler with very little use as I’ve been a runner and only used bike for recover. Anyway on to the question, I’m getting a bit of a stiff neck but nothing to serious. While cycling yesterday with a mate he suggested I shortened the stem, my question is would this help and do all stems fit.
I’ve measured my current one and depending where you measure it from it’s around 120-140.

PMark

When I started road cycling, it did take a few weeks for the muscles in my neck to strengthen enough, so it didn't ache after a ride. So maybe you just need to ride a bit more.

Modern road bike stems are generally all interchangeable (although expensive Aero bikes can have custom integrated designs), but a bike from that long ago may have an older style quill stem. You also might need to raise the stem. So you might be better going to a bike shop who will be able to better recommend what you need.

MattFalle

that sounds long tbh

three things to check re changing stems:

1. quill or ahead. Quill is the old, old stuff. ahead is modern. do a quick google for piccies

2. handlebar width. this will affect what size stem 'bar clamp. generally skinny (26.6 or similar give or take .2) or oversize (31.8 or similar give or take .2) do a quick google for piccies.

3. all modern stuff is 1 1/8" sterrer tbh.

That sounds loooong. job on a 100 or 110mm and that generally is the norm

Measure length from centre of bolt than holds it to the bike to centre of h'bar clamp. or it'll be written somewhere on it.

gerryhughes67

Thanks for the answers so far, just worked out how to put photos on so this might help.

MattFalle

130mm so try going 110

if you can't borrow one just get cheapest thing you can - probably off the Bay - and try.

if all works oyt buy a nice one and give that to someone who needs one.

seanoconn

gerryhughes67 said:

Thanks for the answers so far, just worked out how to put photos on so this might help.

Measure from middle of steerer tube to middle of handlebars if MF’s version is too easy.

daniel_b

Difficult to see from those pics, but I would say it is either a 120 or 110.

This is a random mountain bike stem image guide I found - and this one is 70mm.


I have a collection of stems, as they can be had dirt cheap, and as already mentioned, ebay might do you, or sometimes the likes of CRC can have them for £7 or so.
If it's a reasonable amount long, buy cheap, and I'd be inclined to drop by 20mm.
Have you also checked your saddle postion on the rails - as in it's not slammed all the way back?

pblakeney

You can get different stem angles so the length could be correct while too shallow/steep.
The old rule of thumb used to be when in your normal riding position the handlebars should hide the front axle. Bars in front of axle = too long. Bars behind axle = too short.

gerryhughes67

Thanks for all the replies, I’ve now measured as suggested and it looks like it’s 110mm.

gerryhughes67

oxoman said:

Cant tell from the picture but if the stem is pointed downwards you could always try turning it upwards. Works for some people to have the stem a bit higher.

How do you adjust the angle as I thought it was set.

seanoconn

If the stem has an angle and and is currently angled slightly down (hard to tell from your pics) you can flip the stem so the angle is up making the bars slightly higher. Or replace with a shorter/angled stem if you want less reach/more height.

You can also as Oxo said, loosen the stem bolts that hold the bars and rotate them up slightly reducing the reach. But not to such an extent that your wrists are at an awkward angle while on the hoods. Cost free adjustment.

MattFalle

It was also something random like if it fitted perfectly in your hand

seanoconn said:

If the stem has an angle and and is currently angled slightly down (hard to tell from your pics) you can flip the stem so the angle is up making the bars slightly higher. Or replace with a shorter/angled stem if you want less reach/more height.

You can also as Oxo said, loosen the stem bolts that hold the bars and rotate them up slightly reducing the reach. But not to such an extent that your wrists are at an awkward angle while on the hoods. Cost free adjustment.

problem with this is if you go too far you end up looking like a kid in the 70s on a Chopper.

gerryhughes67

Ordered an 80mm off eBay so will give that a go and let you know how I get on.

crescent

Something else to bear in mind, when you shorten the stem you can make the steering a bit twitchy. The shorter stem means any steering adjustments at the handlebars will be accentuated at the other end of the stem where it is clamped to the steerer tube. Not necessarily a problem but just something to be aware of.

MattFalle

crescent said:

Something else to bear in mind, when you shorten the stem you can make the steering a bit twitchy. The shorter stem means any steering adjustments at the handlebars will be accentuated at the other end of the stem where it is clamped to the steerer tube. Not necessarily a problem but just something to be aware of.

OP: it'll be fine. Too many variables to mention.

photonic69

Another approach is maybe not to fix the bike but to fix the rider? It seems he might be lacking flexibility and the muscles supporting the head need strengthening? Remember your head weighs around 5kgs and to hold it in the position you are in on a road bike takes a lot of strength. I had serous neck issues last year and it caused a great deal of pain. These are the exercises that really helped me to ride again, pain free.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWg92hFOEDk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_8VuKxiCRs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpUIDH-atys

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkpvTRa2OO0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWH22O-t5eE

There are plenty more you can do and find on that channel. Doing these and the shorter stem will undoubtedly help.

Munsford0

I remember having a go on a colleague's bike without clocking that it had a very long stem. Felt like I was steering a narrowboat

pblakeney

How many cyclists steer by turning the handlebars?
Genuinely curious.

First.Aspect

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

pblakeney

First.Aspect said:

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

Agreed but I was referring to the narrowboat post.
People regularly ride and steer no handed. Hands are just used for a lack of confidence and being ready to brake or steer in an emergency event.

First.Aspect

pblakeney said:

First.Aspect said:

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

Agreed but I was referring to the narrowboat post.
People regularly ride and steer no handed. Hands are just used for a lack of confidence and being ready to brake or steer in an emergency event.

That's an exaggeration.

But I've had all stem lengths from 80-120 mm and the adjustment in steering input required is barely noticeable. No more so than moving from the tops to the hoods.

Perhaps if I had one of those 0 cm mtb stems it might be different...

daniel_b

First.Aspect said:

pblakeney said:

First.Aspect said:

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

Agreed but I was referring to the narrowboat post.
People regularly ride and steer no handed. Hands are just used for a lack of confidence and being ready to brake or steer in an emergency event.

That's an exaggeration.

But I've had all stem lengths from 80-120 mm and the adjustment in steering input required is barely noticeable. No more so than moving from the tops to the hoods.

Perhaps if I had one of those 0 cm mtb stems it might be different...

Agreed, I've ridden stems between 60mm & 120mm (Not on the same bike!) and differences were minimal, and nothing dangerous that I experienced with the 60.

First.Aspect

daniel_b said:

First.Aspect said:

pblakeney said:

First.Aspect said:

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

Agreed but I was referring to the narrowboat post.
People regularly ride and steer no handed. Hands are just used for a lack of confidence and being ready to brake or steer in an emergency event.

That's an exaggeration.

But I've had all stem lengths from 80-120 mm and the adjustment in steering input required is barely noticeable. No more so than moving from the tops to the hoods.

Perhaps if I had one of those 0 cm mtb stems it might be different...

Agreed, I've ridden stems between 60mm & 120mm (Not on the same bike!) and differences were minimal, and nothing dangerous that I experienced with the 60.

Riding with 36 cm bars, on the other hand....

daniel_b

First.Aspect said:

Riding with 36 cm bars, on the other hand....

40cm C2C is the narrowest i have gone, if you check the Francis Cade videos, one of the Ribble riders 'The Redster' is riding 33cm C2C bars!

DeVlaeminck

First.Aspect said:

daniel_b said:

First.Aspect said:

pblakeney said:

First.Aspect said:

It is more that you are steadying the steering.

Agreed but I was referring to the narrowboat post.
People regularly ride and steer no handed. Hands are just used for a lack of confidence and being ready to brake or steer in an emergency event.

That's an exaggeration.

But I've had all stem lengths from 80-120 mm and the adjustment in steering input required is barely noticeable. No more so than moving from the tops to the hoods.

Perhaps if I had one of those 0 cm mtb stems it might be different...

Agreed, I've ridden stems between 60mm & 120mm (Not on the same bike!) and differences were minimal, and nothing dangerous that I experienced with the 60.

Riding with 36 cm bars, on the other hand....

Very true - narrower bars makes a noticeable difference.

rwoofer

At 6'6" I have one bike fitted with 38cm bars as an experiment and now barely notice anything different. I used to be good on 44cm and gradually moved downwards. 40cm c2c seems to be my preferred width now.

Mad_Malx

One other thought - if you are using a helmet with a peak, take it off. Fine for MTB or hybrid, but it makes you crane neck backwards to see on drop bars.

MattFalle

rwoofer said:

At 6'6" I have one bike fitted with 38cm bars as an experiment and now barely notice anything different. I used to be good on 44cm and gradually moved downwards. 40cm c2c seems to be my preferred width now.

your height generally doesn't make a difference to 'bar width: its all based on shoulder width.

drlodge

A common problem if it feels there is too much weight on the hands, or the body position is too far forward, is to make sure the saddle fore-aft position is correct. I had this problem for years until I pushed the saddle *back*. When coasting and you life your rear off the saddle, body held up by your feet and legs so its balanced, bottom should then be floating above the saddle.

rwoofer

MattFalle said:

rwoofer said:

At 6'6" I have one bike fitted with 38cm bars as an experiment and now barely notice anything different. I used to be good on 44cm and gradually moved downwards. 40cm c2c seems to be my preferred width now.

your height generally doesn't make a difference to 'bar width: its all based on shoulder width.

OK, 92kg size XL in clothing then

Actually height does make a difference, but not like shoulder width and personal preference. With long arms there is generally less sensitivity to bar width, cause the angles don't change as much. On my MTB I ride 800mm bars which many shorter people would find just too wide.

brunojohn7102QikkwggD

I have a 54cm road bike and want to reduce the reach (probably legs longer than most of my height and therefore a shorter body). I went from 100mm to 80mm bodywork - this https://biketoworkday.us/best-road-bike-stems/ is sourced from Origin8, it helps distribute weight evenly and makes riding more comfortable. Installing this bike stem wasn’t an issue, either, with its two-piece faceplate design. I can’t even imagine a newbie biker having trouble with it.