Chain continually breaking
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Since then, my chain has gone half a dozen times - I actually replaced it again, but the new one went on the second time out. Note - before I changed everything, the original chain had only gone once in 7 years of use. When it goes incidentally, invariably it's not under any load - i.e. it doesn't go on a hill or when accelerating hard. It's normally just trundling along on the flat.
When I examine the chain, the side pieces are all slightly curved, like the teeth the chain is passing over are slightly too wide for the chain and over time are pushing the side pieces out in each link until eventually one side comes off the pin. The front cog is a like-for-like replacement of original, and the cassette and chain were recommended on here, so that leaves the jockey wheels....
Are jockey wheels different for road/mountain bikes such that they could cause this effect?
Comments
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Have you been cross chaining, riding with the chain on the big chain ring and small rear cog?0
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That is the direct opposite of cross chaining. 🤔dtaylor243 said:Have you been cross chaining, riding with the chain on the big chain ring and small rear cog?
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.3 -
I cannot imagine that the jockey wheels are damaging the chain. They're the softest bit in the drivetrain.0
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If it's a Shimano chain, is it breaking at the joining pin you've installed.
i.e. is the pin installed correctly?
Have you got the correct chain length and not just installing a full-length chain from the box/bag?0 -
Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Could be breaking where you are joining the chain. If you using a joining pin it is easy to get that wrong. (If you are using a quick link, it isn't going to be this.)
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.0 -
An 11 speed chain is fine on 10 speed. The inner chain width is the same on 10 and 11 speed chains.First.Aspect said:Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.0 -
Whatever - there are combinations where it isn't. I doubt it is that anyhow. Also, if it was a damaged chainring, you'd probably hear it tick each crank revolution and the OP hasn't mentioned this.masjer said:
An 11 speed chain is fine on 10 speed. The inner chain width is the same on 10 and 11 speed chains.First.Aspect said:Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.
My guess is it is where the continually breaking chain is being rejoined.0 -
Tis true about chain width. 10 and 11 speed Chainrings are the same width too.First.Aspect said:
Whatever - there are combinations where it isn't. I doubt it is that anyhow. Also, if it was a damaged chainring, you'd probably hear it tick each crank revolution and the OP hasn't mentioned this.masjer said:
An 11 speed chain is fine on 10 speed. The inner chain width is the same on 10 and 11 speed chains.First.Aspect said:Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.
My guess is it is where the continually breaking chain is being rejoined.
It actually makes sense to use an 11 speed chain on a 10 speed set up as the chains generally last longer, believe it or not.0 -
You'll have to explain that to me.masjer said:
Tis true about chain width. 10 and 11 speed Chainrings are the same width too.First.Aspect said:
Whatever - there are combinations where it isn't. I doubt it is that anyhow. Also, if it was a damaged chainring, you'd probably hear it tick each crank revolution and the OP hasn't mentioned this.masjer said:
An 11 speed chain is fine on 10 speed. The inner chain width is the same on 10 and 11 speed chains.First.Aspect said:Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.
My guess is it is where the continually breaking chain is being rejoined.
It actually makes sense to use an 11 speed chain on a 10 speed set up as the chains generally last longer, believe it or not.0 -
Contrary to what sounds logical, each incarnation of chain from 8,9,10,11,12 speed, keep getting more wear resistant. 12 speed lasts far longer than 8.0
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Thanks, I uunderstood what you meant by 'lasts longer'. It was more the 'why' I was curious about.1
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I'd guess that as the pins and plates etc have got narrower/thinner, the hardening process has got better- so more wear resistance. Maybe better materials, coatings and quality control too?0
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Yes quite right, brain cross chained.pblakeney said:
That is the direct opposite of cross chaining. 🤔dtaylor243 said:Have you been cross chaining, riding with the chain on the big chain ring and small rear cog?
But I think for the OP to experience so many chain breaks the drivetrain which I assume is 9 speed or lower must be making a horrid noise.
Best thing if things don't sound and feel right just take it to a bike shop.0 -
Thanks.First.Aspect said:Could be the chainrings damaging the chain, eg it there is a damaged tooth, bent sideways or something like that.
Could be breaking where you are joining the chain. If you using a joining pin it is easy to get that wrong. (If you are using a quick link, it isn't going to be this.)
Unlikely I know, but if you are using old chain rings that are too wide, e.g. 10 speed rings with an 11-speed chain, that might eventually damage the chain.
I was hearing ticking sometimes when I rode - particularly uphill. I figured my rear gears needed realigning so I tweaked them and the tick went away.
The chain is a Shimano, so jointing pin. I'm pretty sure it was installed correctly - it wouldn't explain the bulging on all links anyway. I'll take a photo and post it so you can see what the chain looks like. I'll try and look for a damaged tooth too.0 -
Is the 'bulging' not just the profiling of the chain links, designed to aid shifting?0
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Mad_Malx said:And perhaps the biggest takeaway from all of this testing is that no matter how durable a chain is, the lubricant you use will play the most critical role in drivetrain durability. Kerin toasted an endless number of chainrings and cassettes in his testing, and basically, any chain that lasted over 2,500 km ripped through the cassette and chainrings through nothing more than abrasion from the gritty lubricant.
As always, run a good lube and keep your drivetrain clean – that’s the real trick to getting the most value and performance from your drivetrain components.
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/
And this is the conclusion.0 -
It is better to be red than blue, most of the time.
This is correlation not causation. You would get the same graph with today's 11sp da, ultra, 105 etc.0 -
Thanks. The badly labelled y axis on the figure above was confusing me.focuszing723 said:Mad_Malx said:And perhaps the biggest takeaway from all of this testing is that no matter how durable a chain is, the lubricant you use will play the most critical role in drivetrain durability. Kerin toasted an endless number of chainrings and cassettes in his testing, and basically, any chain that lasted over 2,500 km ripped through the cassette and chainrings through nothing more than abrasion from the gritty lubricant.
As always, run a good lube and keep your drivetrain clean – that’s the real trick to getting the most value and performance from your drivetrain components.
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/
And this is the conclusion.
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No probs, yeah. I don't know what to make of it really and it's a fair point Mully79 makes.
I've never had a chain snap on me.0 -
Lightweight. 😉focuszing723 said:
I've never had a chain snap on me.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
More middle weight, but yeah, entirely probable.0
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Like @me-109 say's up this thread...
From left to right:
Campagnolo 11 speed, SRAM 10 speed, Shimano 9 sp, SRAM 6/7/8 sp, old 5 speed, 1/8″ single speed chain0 -
What speed groupset are you running?
If you are running an older 6 or 7-speed groupo but fitting an 11-speed or 12-speed chain that could be your problem.“Life has been unfaithful
And it all promised so so much”
Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 20090 -
i don't think they make chains, just wheels and frames, yah?pblakeney said:
Lightweight. 😉focuszing723 said:
I've never had a chain snap on me..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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