Disc Brakes
Disc Brakes clicking…… after a steep decent 1/2 mile 10% rough tarmac. My breaks started clicking or ticking like when you’re wheel magnet is hitting the sensor. Friends said my disc must have heated up warped and was rubbing on the pads. He said go slow and apply the brakes briefly hard a few times and it will go away. It did. So is this common was this the right fix, was something else happening? It’s a new bike less than 300 miles Emonda SLR Suggestions
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That’s fairly typical behaviour. As said above, you can sort it by a hard squeeze on the brake at the point you hear the noise ( or a couple of repeats ). Again, as said above, you’ll almost certainly find you’ll need to re centralise the calliper now and again. It’s fairly easy to do, there’s plenty of stuff on YouTube et.al. that explain the process.0
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It can be due to a sticking pad not retracting fully when the brakes are released. Remove the wheel and the pads and clean all around the pistons with cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol.
Check your rotor is completely true (not buckled at all) and use an appropriate tool or adjustable spanner to tweak it back into alignment if necessary.
Now ensure the caliper is centred accurately. It can be hard to see, but place a white sheet of paper on the ground and look down shining a light on the pads with the paper acting as the background. You should be able to see if the gap is equal either side of the rotor. If not, adjust by loosening and then reclamping the two mounting bolts.
If that doesn’t solve the issue the likelihood is some tiny air bubbles trapped in the system. When you brake the caliper heats up with the generated heat. The fluid inside will be heated up and the tiny air bubbles will expand. In the closed system this will lead to the pads not retracting fully until the fluid/ air bubbles cool and the air contracts again - a few seconds after releasing the brakes.
Bleeding the system should get rid of the air and that as the potential problem.
The other thing to ensure is that there isn’t too much fluid in the system which again can cause the pads not to retract fully. This occurs if the system is bleed without the pads being manually forced back to their full ‘off’ position.
To rectify, remove the reservoir screw on the shift lever body. Remove the wheel and either use a flat head screwdriver between the pads to force them back to the fully retracted position (I’d only do this if you are replacing the pads as the screwdriver will damage them) or remove the pads and use either the proper tool, OR something plastic like a tyre lever - NOT a screwdriver as it can crack the ceramic piston. Force the pistons full back into the caliper. If there was too much fluid in the system some will have welled out the port on the lever body. Clean it up thoroughly with clean cloth and replace the screw. Replace the pads and wheel and see if the pistons now operate and retract properly.0 -
Thank you for the advice0
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Mine do this all the time after big descents. It goes away after a few minutes of normal riding. Never needed to even apply the brakes.
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This tells you everything you need to know about disc brakes.pilot_pete said:It can be due to a sticking pad not retracting fully when the brakes are released. Remove the wheel and the pads and clean all around the pistons with cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol.
Check your rotor is completely true (not buckled at all) and use an appropriate tool or adjustable spanner to tweak it back into alignment if necessary.
Now ensure the caliper is centred accurately. It can be hard to see, but place a white sheet of paper on the ground and look down shining a light on the pads with the paper acting as the background. You should be able to see if the gap is equal either side of the rotor. If not, adjust by loosening and then reclamping the two mounting bolts.
If that doesn’t solve the issue the likelihood is some tiny air bubbles trapped in the system. When you brake the caliper heats up with the generated heat. The fluid inside will be heated up and the tiny air bubbles will expand. In the closed system this will lead to the pads not retracting fully until the fluid/ air bubbles cool and the air contracts again - a few seconds after releasing the brakes.
Bleeding the system should get rid of the air and that as the potential problem.
The other thing to ensure is that there isn’t too much fluid in the system which again can cause the pads not to retract fully. This occurs if the system is bleed without the pads being manually forced back to their full ‘off’ position.
To rectify, remove the reservoir screw on the shift lever body. Remove the wheel and either use a flat head screwdriver between the pads to force them back to the fully retracted position (I’d only do this if you are replacing the pads as the screwdriver will damage them) or remove the pads and use either the proper tool, OR something plastic like a tyre lever - NOT a screwdriver as it can crack the ceramic piston. Force the pistons full back into the caliper. If there was too much fluid in the system some will have welled out the port on the lever body. Clean it up thoroughly with clean cloth and replace the screw. Replace the pads and wheel and see if the pistons now operate and retract properly.0
