Help diagnosing a creaking bike

My road bike is creaking like a bitch when laying down the power seated and standing particularly when going up hills.

Like others I suspected the pressfit BB and changed it, but this has made no difference.

I have since installed the bike on my direct drive turbo trainer and the creak has gone. Should I be looking at replacing the wheel bearings now?

Comments

  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    try it with a different front wheel first by itself then try a different back wheel and see if that makes any difference.

    #processofdeduction
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,623
    Could be a droupiuts creak. That's the main difference on a trainer. Less honking.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,623
    Honking. Fnarr.
  • magoo289
    magoo289 Posts: 223
    Have you checked all bolts are tightened? I had similarly issue, could have swore it was the bottom bracket, eventually took bike to LBS and the only thing they could find were a couple of stem bolts needed tightened. Creaking disappeared.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    Presuming your are on rims make sure your QR's are lightly greased & tight.
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    What sort of QR skewer do you have? If it’s a lightweight external cam version with a plastic or rubber cam, it could be an idea to try out an all metal internal cam QR such as Shimano during the process of elimination. The internal cam ones provide much more clamping force.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    Even though you've replaced it, I would still suspect the bb. Also look at the headset and pedals.

    The other thing to check is the rear wheel spokes. Mavic wheels in particular (in my experience) can creak like hell where the spokes cross. A dab of grease sorts this.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,558
    The rear derailleur hanger can be sneaky and cause a creak between itself and the dropout (especially in the circumstances you described). Remove, clean, grease (silicone grease if possible) and re-install.
  • I'm going with the wheel give both hubs a good spray of lubricant and see if it cures it .
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    unless you strip the hub to lube all you're going to get is shiney hubs if you do that.

    approach this methodically.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,623
    I don't know. The process of squirting a little bit of WD40 here and there to see what makes a difference is probably more efficient than servicing everything you touch.
  • flopstocks
    flopstocks Posts: 110
    OK thanks all. What a pain
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    or, just do the sensible thing and smash the piece of junk with a hammer, set fire to it, lob it in next door's garden and buy a Ritte Vlanderen with Obermayers and Super Record.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • MattFalle said:

    unless you strip the hub to lube all you're going to get is shiney hubs if you do that.

    approach this methodically.

    I've had it cure a creaky rear Campag Zonda ,after replacing the BB .
    Methodically do the easiest first, right ?
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    not necessarily. that would be doing the easiest first not methodically.

    and you'll just end up with shiny hubs.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • trevor.hall12
    trevor.hall12 Posts: 416
    edited August 2021
    Course :s
    Doing the easiest first wouldn't be sensible in any way .
  • i.bhamra
    i.bhamra Posts: 304
    Surely checking the QR/thru axles is just as easy?