Are Jagwire's 'Elite' Level Cable Housing Worth It?
I thinking of getting Elite Link for the rear brakes, believing it has a lot less friction than a cheaper, regular cable housing. That way the rear brakes can work better due to having less housing friction. I'm using disc brakes, 160mm rotor.
For the gear cable housing, I'm not sure if Jagwire's top end cable housing is worth it. Or get regular housing instead. I'll be just changing gears. Would there be a big improvement in performance if I replace the gear cable housing with Jagwire's?
Cheers.
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Haven't used the Jagwire stuff but ages ago I decided to go all posh and replaced the normal SRAM stuff with top of the range a billion pounds a set Gore Pro stuff because I thought it would be mega
Not an iota of difference. Complete waste of time and money.
Use the Shimano stuff from the big box on the shelf in the shop and use the cash you save to change in more regularly..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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I use the "lifeline" sets from wiggle and never had any issues with them.
A full brake or gear kit of less than £50 -
For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners.0 -
I have the non link elite jagwire on the rear derailleur. Main advantage is the liner runs from the shifter all the way to the rd and is sealed at the rd. No more crud getting on the cable and dragging into the liner to get cruddy in winter. Ideal if you use your bike for commuting. Less so if just dry rides.0
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This is what you want for cable disc brakes trp-cableset0
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So the OP asks whether the cost of cable housings are worthwhile, and your advice is buy a whole new bike?super_davo said:For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners.0 -
whats the difference between that and the normal stuff?emanresu said:This is what you want for cable disc brakes trp-cableset
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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My advice is same as MF's. The only difference I've ever noted is when using teflon coated cables. These are expensive, fine for a few weeks, then the teflon strips off and collects in the housing. It is a truly terrible idea.
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I've noticed that Jagwire and Campagnolo gear cables last longer than Lifeline but other than that no difference from any of the three.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
agree completely - that teflon stuff is junk. utterly stupid idea.First.Aspect said:My advice is same as MF's. The only difference I've ever noted is when using teflon coated cables. These are expensive, fine for a few weeks, then the teflon strips off and collects in the housing. It is a truly terrible idea.
.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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agree completely - that teflon stuff is junk. utterly stupid idea.
With you there. The daft 'polymer' coating just comes off and gums up around the cable entry/exit. I've had it bad enough to bugger up shifting. Just stick with good quality stainless inners. I tend to run the new cables through a bit of SRAM butter between my fingers before installation, mostly because I have a big pot of it sat next to the bench0 -
sweeeeet.
OP - just remember if ypu are running SRAM you need SRAM specific cables - 1.1mm - Shimano are 1.2 and it jeffs up the shifting.
I buy them from Ribble for about £2 each and run them in standard outers from the shop..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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SRAM also needs a loooonger loop into the rear mech for best shifting..
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Last time I looked you could buy hydraullic shifters and brakes without buying the entire bike... Admitedly significantly more expensive in these post covid / brexit times but you can always sell your existing ones to cover the difference.First.Aspect said:
So the OP asks whether the cost of cable housings are worthwhile, and your advice is buy a whole new bike?super_davo said:For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners.0 -
tbh, its on about the level of the advice and opinions of marjer and oblonomaboringus so you can't knock him too much.First.Aspect said:
So the OP asks whether the cost of cable housings are worthwhile, and your advice is buy a whole new bike?super_davo said:For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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You are are talking about maybe £300 for brifters etc and that's assuming the frame can accommodate hoses.super_davo said:
Last time I looked you could buy hydraullic shifters and brakes without buying the entire bike... Admitedly significantly more expensive in these post covid / brexit times but you can always sell your existing ones to cover the difference.First.Aspect said:
So the OP asks whether the cost of cable housings are worthwhile, and your advice is buy a whole new bike?super_davo said:For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners.0 -
Yeah, but second hand prices for parts are crazy at the mo so the originals are in good nick and sold it would probably about a £200 outlay in all and it's a total fix (assuming something like 105/Rival level).First.Aspect said:
You are are talking about maybe £300 for brifters etc and that's assuming the frame can accommodate hoses.super_davo said:
Last time I looked you could buy hydraullic shifters and brakes without buying the entire bike... Admitedly significantly more expensive in these post covid / brexit times but you can always sell your existing ones to cover the difference.First.Aspect said:
So the OP asks whether the cost of cable housings are worthwhile, and your advice is buy a whole new bike?super_davo said:For your brakes, save the money on the cables and upgrade to hydraullics. Most cable discs are pretty poor. You've got the issue of pulling on one pad on some designs; some pull on both which are much better; but none are as good as hydaullics. In fact very few feel as good as a decent set of rim brakes, but that's a whole different conversation.
For the gear cables I have the Jagwires on one of my bikes, they do a great job but in all honesty no better performance than anything else. I have noticed an improvement from using Lifeline Professional inners from Wiggle / CRC though, which are super flexible which helps around tight bends. They also don't have any of this polymer coating nonsense of the expensive Shimano ones which just peels off and leaves a mess on the inners.
I would generally avoid cable discs and say if you can't afford hydraullics to get rim brakes (though there may be specific use cases like commuting / heavy riders where this isn't the right thing to do). There are a few exceptions like TRP spyres with a two piston design that work OK when everything is set up well, but all are more maintenance / faff than hydraullics and don't feel as good even at their best. "A new cable to reduce friction" suggests a deeper issue and that he's in lipstick on a pig territory.
I'd be surprised if any disc frame sold in the last 5 years or so can't accept hoses, if older then you might be better off with that new bike after all0 -
MattFalle said:
whats the difference between that and the normal stuff?emanresu said:This is what you want for cable disc brakes trp-cableset
The trp cable housing is compression less where as most cable housing is low compression. The difference is the brakes feel less spongy with compression less cable housing.0 -
i thought everyone marketed their stuff as compressionless now? Shimano do..
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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turns out the jagwire is "compressionless" as well
https://www.cxmagazine.com/mechanical-monday-upgrade-compressionless-brake-housing.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Thank you guys. I'll look into the TRP cable set. Compressionless is a new concept to me.
I can't get hydraulics, that will mean buying new 105 shifters which will cost me some hundreds of pounds. I could get a hydraulic calipers such as TRP HY/RD, but for now I'll make the most of my TRP Spyres.0 -
If you want to keep the Spyres, just get anything calling itself brake cable outers (all should be compressionless if marketed as such) keep the routing as straight as possible even if it means longer loops, buy decent cable cutters and when you're cutting them run an old inner cable in the outers to stop the inner sheath squashing (obvs. remove once done!). Keep the outers in place, but change the inners every year or so.
You're got the one set of cable discs you can get decent results out of, so if you do all of that you should be OK. But fancy pants cables are a waste of money - Elite links have an RRP of £60 - and they will never make cable disks feel as smooth as hydraullics. As long as installed well you'll get perfectly acceptable performance with something like the below:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-brake-cable-set-shimanosram-road-1
that you'll struggle to tell the difference vs pricier stuff in use.
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When I first took up cycling I made the mistake of using gear cable on my brakes.
Interesting experience riding it for the first time afterwards.1