tips to get a good true tyre fit

chatlow
chatlow Posts: 847
edited August 2021 in Workshop
Just replaced conti 4000 for 5000 on my Giant SLR aeros. These are clinchers, 25mm. Simple enough and with a bit of wiggling and pumping to 120 I heard some clicks as expected. That tyre is OK but still has a very slight wobble which is near the valve.

Anything I can do to get it even better?

thanks

Comments

  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Deflate, push the valve in and ensure the beads seat either side of the valve before re-inflating. That’s it. Other than that I wouldn’t worry as it will not be perceptible when riding (assuming the tyre isn’t damaged).
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Lean on it and roll it around to seat it in as per PP.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    thanks both - will have a go later
  • Little bit of soapy water often helps too
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    120?

    Do you need that sort of pressure, how heavy are you if you don't mind me asking?
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    nowt wrong with 120 psi young E.

    why do you say that?
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    edited August 2021
    MattFalle said:

    nowt wrong with 120 psi young E.

    why do you say that?

    Nothing wrong, per say, but 120 is high.

    Look at the recommended tables for 23mm tyres here:

    https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/road-bike-tyre-pressure/

    I run 100 front and 110 rear on 23mm as someone who is around 95kgs.
    80 psi on 28mm tyres.

    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,651
    edited August 2021
    I'd partially deflate the tyre, and then manipulate it by hand - and deffo deflate it further, and push the valve up away from the rim as PP mentioned, and this should make it easier for the tyre bead to seat in that area - I've had that issue more than once before, and that has been the cause and solution for me.

    I don't normally go up to 120 psi to seat them, 100 will normally suffice, then I drop my 5000s down to 70\80 psi.

    If you still have issues, I would deflate fully, start from scratch, and maybe check the seating every 30psi and manipulate it with your hands if it looks you are still having issues.

    The only tyre I have found personally that needs knocking up to 120 psi to help it seat, is the tank that is the schwalbe marathon plus.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    elbowloh said:

    MattFalle said:

    nowt wrong with 120 psi young E.

    why do you say that?

    Nothing wrong, per say, but 120 is high.

    Look at the recommended tables for 23mm tyres here:

    https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/road-bike-tyre-pressure/

    I run 100 front and 110 rear on 23mm as someone who is around 95kgs.
    80 psi on 28mm tyres.

    nah, not really fam. 120 is bob on if you like you your tyres at 120.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    Wait, what? I've never heard of pumping up to a high pressure to seat it.

    Well blow me, you learn something new every day!
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    edited August 2021
    should have clarified - only went to 120 to get it seated. It actually popped on around 110 but went a little higher (max recommended is 125) to see if it would help a bit for this area. I'm around 70 kg and run 90 ish usually.

    Anyway, it's better albeit not perfect - but that could be my OCD. The value section seems good now, but 2-3 inches to the left of the value, the seam is still sunken by 1mm or so. By sunken I mean the line itself it 1mm or so lower than the rest of the tyre. Not much to it really but i can see a slight wobble which annoys me.

    Tried bit of lubricant and some other tricks but no joy so might be that I need to give the rims a good clean up - they were originally setup as tubeless but I went back to tubes around a year ago. they seem clean all the way along the rim
  • chatlow said:

    should have clarified - only went to 120 to get it seated. It actually popped on around 110 but went a little higher (max recommended is 125) to see if it would help a bit for this area. I'm around 70 kg and run 90 ish usually.

    Anyway, it's better albeit not perfect - but that could be my OCD. The value section seems good now, but 2-3 inches to the left of the value, the seam is still sunken by 1mm or so. By sunken I mean the line itself it 1mm or so lower than the rest of the tyre. Not much to it really but i can see a slight wobble which annoys me.

    Tried bit of lubricant and some other tricks but no joy so might be that I need to give the rims a good clean up - they were originally setup as tubeless but I went back to tubes around a year ago. they seem clean all the way along the rim

    Out of interest wondering why you went back to inner tubes. I’m still using them, but have a couple of bikes that will run tubeless and was thinking of ‘ going over’ to tubeless on these bikes….. but I’m still not convinced! I’d be interested to hear what you have learnt and reasons for converting back and how you’ve found the ‘return’.
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    to be honest - got on well with tubeless for a year - no dramas at all until 1 big blow out 40 miles from home.

    Very messy side of the road experience and was unable to sit the tyre well at all using my spare tube to get me home. Also had a few issues mounting the tyre after getting it was fixed (plugged), so went back to tubes for a while

    may try again soon
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,492

    chatlow said:

    should have clarified - only went to 120 to get it seated. It actually popped on around 110 but went a little higher (max recommended is 125) to see if it would help a bit for this area. I'm around 70 kg and run 90 ish usually.

    Anyway, it's better albeit not perfect - but that could be my OCD. The value section seems good now, but 2-3 inches to the left of the value, the seam is still sunken by 1mm or so. By sunken I mean the line itself it 1mm or so lower than the rest of the tyre. Not much to it really but i can see a slight wobble which annoys me.

    Tried bit of lubricant and some other tricks but no joy so might be that I need to give the rims a good clean up - they were originally setup as tubeless but I went back to tubes around a year ago. they seem clean all the way along the rim

    Out of interest wondering why you went back to inner tubes. I’m still using them, but have a couple of bikes that will run tubeless and was thinking of ‘ going over’ to tubeless on these bikes….. but I’m still not convinced! I’d be interested to hear what you have learnt and reasons for converting back and how you’ve found the ‘return’.
    I tried it on my commuter and went back to tubes. Could be the tyres I used that were no good but it was a load of faff with none of the benefits promised. I ran about 70-80psi and if I got a puncture, of which there were many, it would spray tubeless sealant all over the place until it got below about 30psi at which point it might seal, but the tyre felt squishy and handling on road didn't inspire confirdence at that point. The bike was then covered in tubeless sealant, as was I. If it was a front puncture and no mudguards this resulted in a rather uncomfortable leg wax removing dried on sealant from my lower legs. A new reason for cyclists to justify shaving thier legs? I had a flat every 3 or 4 rides with them, these were Panaracer Gravel King, but actually quite slick. Admittedly they did feel quite quick when they worked.
    I've now put a pair of Vittoria Voyager Hypers I had lying around on with tubes, all is well. Hoepfully I haven't tempted fate.
  • Thank you chatlow and veronese for both your responses. Interesting to read. Will continue to ponder, but will probably take the ‘ plunge’ at some point. The GP4000s on my Tarmac are coming towards the end of their life so this might be the time to have a go when they finally go! BW
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    okay, so Ive just removed the rim tape off my SLRs thinking it could be that. replaced and same. again its not bad but not perfect, just one section a 1mm or so tucked in more which you can see when spinning

    also looks to be the same section of tyre rather than wheel as ive just re-fit a few times

  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,492


    I've now put a pair of Vittoria Voyager Hypers I had lying around on with tubes, all is well. Hoepfully I haven't tempted fate.

    Admittedly I didn't expect retribution to be quite this quick, puncture this morning.
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    Unless the lump is huge and it's miles off being seated properly, it'll settle down with a first ride and find its way onto the rim evenly.
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
    Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    Ben6899 said:

    Unless the lump is huge and it's miles off being seated properly, it'll settle down with a first ride and find its way onto the rim evenly.

    Had hoped so, but it didnt. same flat spot, not too big but an obvious wobble where it's stuck further down in the rim. Could be a suspect tyre, as my other tyres fit the wheel fine, every time
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    Could well be a suspect tyre. Think about it, there's no reason for two circular objects to fit together non-concentrically...
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
    Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/
  • Mark the tyre and rim where it is and try it in a different position on the wheel
    If it shows in the same area on the tyre then it must be it ,if it shows up on the same area on the rim it will be that .
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 847
    hi, yes already did that. Same spot near the conti logo. I just tried it on another wheel (non tubeless ready) and fit was a lot better. Could barely see any wobble. I've now gone and angrily removed the original rim tape that was on these SLRs and will need to replace. Is electrical tape OK for now if Im not going to go tubeless for the time being?

    Will see if new tape helps sit it, perhaps with some more lube in that particular spot on the tyre