Charger RL lock-out question

gingerroad

I have a 2021 SID SL Select, with the Charger RL damper.

The Rockshox spec sheet says it has only a lockout. Obviously turning the right hand dial all the way clockwise locks out the fork, but why so many clicks? why isn't it a two position dial? there are about 10 clicks (I haven't counted). Are these supposed to make a difference or have they just borrowed the same clicky dial from a more sophisticated damper?

The RS technical manual for the whole fork range says that the Select fork with the Charger RL has rebound adjustment, lockout AND low speed compression adjustment. Is that what the multiple positions are for? they don't seem to make much/any difference.

I would like the fork to ride fairly high and have something approaching a platform for out-of the saddle efforts on rough ground, where would don't want full lockout. i used to be able to achieve this with an old Motion Control fork with Floodgate. Would be nice to turn up the low speed compression to achieve something similar here.

Thanks.

gingerroad

This is the fork: - https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/fs-sids-sel-c1
This is the technical manual i refereed to: - https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/tuning-manuals/gen.0000000006209-rev-a-suspension-setup-and-tuning-guide-english.pdf

steve_sordy

Your fork spec is very clear. The designation "RL" means Rebound and Lockout. That means your Lockout is full-on Low Speed Compression damping (LSC) or it's not (ie preset LSC) I don't know why there are multiple clicks leading up to it. They may indeed have used a standard dial available on other forks for a range of compression damping settings. But the key factor is that you can't feel any difference that the clicks actually do until the last one. If you had proper LSC damping, then your fork would be designated "RLC". Allowing for marketing speak, your fork does have LSC adjustment in that it has a Lockout, which is an adjustment to LSC, ie it turns it fully on.

The only other adjustment that you can make is to the shape of the air spring curve. This is known as "air spring tuning". This is achieved by adding or removing what are known as "tokens" from the air side of your fork. Your adjustability is 0-3 tokens. It is easy to do and requires only one tool, the one to unscrew the top cap on the air leg., which you may already have in your toolbox. Make sure you deflate the shock, fully! My guess is that there will be no tokens in the fork, so you will need to buy some. If there are none, add three and go ride, then change as appropriate. When you add a token you are reducing the air volume inside the fork, but still have the same travel. This means that the reduced volume makes the fork pressure "ramp up" as travel increases. so the fork feels harder. If you overdo it, you may never achieve full travel, but that ride feel may be what you want! So take your tools, tokens and your shock pump with you. Check and be prepared to change psi to get your desired sag after each change to the number of tokens.

For a very good guide to suspension tuning, read this easy to read guide from Bike Rumour. I and many others have found it essential reading if you want to get the best from your suspension.

https://bikerumor.com/2014/10/30/bikerumor-suspension-setup-series-full-series-pdf-free-download/

gingerroad

thank you for that reply - very helpful.
I was hoping there was some way of further tuning, given the various positions on the lockout dial, but it seems they have just borrowed the dial of another fork.
I have bought some tokens and am finding the fork runs better with one token. somehow it feels like a longer travel fork on the bigger hits.

steve_sordy

When you get the best suspension tuning settings for you and your bike, it can transform your ride. It sounds like you are nearly there.