Trueing/tightening spokes/wheels (do i need tensiometer?)

Hey,
My bike handles enduro and DH tracks (Transition Sentinel), but wheels don't have easy life
I thought recently i could help them a lot, by checking spokes' tension and adjusting them myself.
I can hear that they have different sound (when i ping them) so they have different tension... but what is correct i don't know...
so my question is, would it be easier to readjust my wheels with tensiometer ? (i know that great wheelbuilders don't need that thingy :P but i'm not so great)
would it extend my wheels' life? (for sure, running proper tension on all spokes would extend wheel life, right?)
How do you work on that?
(i'm quite technical person, but don't have experience with wheels)
My bike handles enduro and DH tracks (Transition Sentinel), but wheels don't have easy life

I thought recently i could help them a lot, by checking spokes' tension and adjusting them myself.
I can hear that they have different sound (when i ping them) so they have different tension... but what is correct i don't know...
so my question is, would it be easier to readjust my wheels with tensiometer ? (i know that great wheelbuilders don't need that thingy :P but i'm not so great)
would it extend my wheels' life? (for sure, running proper tension on all spokes would extend wheel life, right?)
How do you work on that?
(i'm quite technical person, but don't have experience with wheels)
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Note that you get a different tension ie sound on opposite sides of a rear wheel because the dish is different due to the cassette.
The fronts should be similar from side to side.
The gauge might be ok but if you've bent the rim at sometime even tension goes out the window.
Note: Its easy to get in a mess if you struggle with righty tighty/lefty loosey when you're upside down !
I usually use zip ties as im too tight to buy a proper jig but its good enough for me.
That's why i want to start doing that myself
For truing wheels, you dont need a meter. Or at least i never bother.
If so, I'd leave them well alone.
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Here is what it says about tension meters.
I am not sure. You have no chance.
I would use a decent spoke key, e.g a Spokey, and increase the tension until the ping is similar to adjacent spokes on the same side of the wheel.
If the loose spoke was caused by the wheel rim being distorted then what you are doing is preserving the distortion not correcting it.
If the rim distortion is acceptable then I would leave it alone.
To correct it you need to increase/decrease the tension of a number of spokes either side of the rim distortion to pull it the other way and that is a more complex job if you don't have any wheel building skills.
Or maybe it is me that needs to ask what am I doing, such that I only need bent or damaged spoke replacing once every couple of years. In the last 13 years I reckon I've had about six spokes replaced and I've never had to get any re-tensioned (apart from those six).
Ten out of ten though for wanting to learn how to do it yourself.
But I can see why if it is a skill you will use every couple of weeks. I need it so rarely I can't be bothered to learn.