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105 R7000 brake Calipers - feel very underwhelming

dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
in Workshop
As per the title really

Swapped out the axis 1.0 on my Specialized allez elite for shimano 105 R7000 and have to say I feel very underwhelmed with the performance

I'm not expecting instant bite but it seems to take an age to be able to actually bring the bike to a stop. Pads are the ones which came with the 105 calipers and wheels /rims are dt460

I'm certain the brakes are set up well and there is a tiny gap between each pad and rim

Any suggestions to improve performance at all?

Thanks

Posts

  • webboowebboo Posts: 6,051
    I can stop with my 105’s using one finger on the levers. You must have something wrong with your set up. You do have the matching levers.
  • joe_totale-2joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    Did you change the cables and outers when you changed the calipers? If not some new ones could be a good idea
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    Yeah it's a full R7000 set up, didn't change cables as the bike is/was brand new
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    Just feels like it's really slow to stop the bike
  • ed1973ed1973 Posts: 284
    Definitely something wrong there. I was out today on my bike R7000 levers and callipers and stopping great. Contaminated pad? Rim?
  • masjermasjer Posts: 2,354
    As above the r7000 calipers should work better than the originals. Is the outer cable long enough? It shouldn't be pulled tight when operating the brake. Also having a tiny gap between the pad and rim might be causing a loss of stopping power. Try with a slightly larger gap. Check the pads are aligned.
    If all else fails Captains of crush hand grippers will help :)
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    Thanks all, everything is completely new so I don't think it's contamination?

    Not sure what is meant by outer cable long enough?

    I'll tinker about with pad alignment and the gap between pad and rim later on, I'm wondering if the gap is too small, thus not much lever action being applied before pad contacts rim, thus applying full braking pressure only gradually increases stopping power rather than getting an instant bite if that makes sense
  • darkhairedlorddarkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    You should have some spacers that go behind the levers to bring them in closer to the bars, reducing hand span. Alternatively just loosen off the cables so they don't bite until pulled closer to the bars. Mine are quite loose like this and work ideal for me. experiment until its right for you then remember how much gap you have.
    Personally, I don't find the standard Shimano pads all that good, they tend to wear the rim in wet/dirty weather rather than the pad itself wearing down; I usually use swiss stop blue. However, I have just fitted a set of Decathlon own brand red pads that are repackaged jagwires and similar to Koolstop salmon but much cheaper and in stock.
  • masjermasjer Posts: 2,354
    edited March 2021
    Cable length- just make sure the loop of brake cable that enters the barrel adjuster has enough length that it's not being pulled tight (stretched) when operating the brakes. Changing the make of calipers could mean having to change cable length.
    As DHL above I set my brakes quite loose and find better control/power this way but everyone's different.
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    I'll change the cables to shimano ones just in case (tektro axis Calipers were fitted)

    I have remembered something... When fitting the 105 Calipers I had to retro fit the axis barrel adjuster as the fitted cables wouldn't enter the shimano ones which came with the 105 calipers, so this could point to incorrect cable compatibility?
  • masjermasjer Posts: 2,354
    The original cables might have had a ferrule (end cap) fitted. The Shimano calipers don't require ones to be fitted.
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    Yes, it did have an end cap, rather than new cables I'll remove the end caps
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    Could that affect performance? I wouldn't have thought so?
  • joe_totale-2joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    edited March 2021
    dimmock_g said:

    Could that affect performance? I wouldn't have thought so?

    It absolutely could as it's affects the pull of the cable, I think we may have found the reason why your brakes aren't working correctly.
  • dimmock_gdimmock_g Posts: 19
    So just remove the end cap on the outer and re fit straight into the barrel adjuster
  • joe_totale-2joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    dimmock_g said:

    So just remove the end cap on the outer and re fit straight into the barrel adjuster

    Yep, housing should fit nice and snugly into the barrel adjuster.
  • 2poc2poc Posts: 99
    You have got the caliper lever flipped to closed (the one for wheel removal)? If it’s open when you fitted the brakes it will make them all spongy
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