Mavic Crossmax XL WTS 26' hub centre adjustment

j_matthews7

Hi guys.
Hope someone on here can help?

I bought a 2nd hand bike and although it rides very nicely I'm a bit concerned about the clearance of the disc rotor on the fork lower.

The forks are 2013 Fox Float 36 Factory.
The hubs are Mavic Crossmax XL WTS (26" wheels)
I'm running a 20mm axle with quick release - flip down the two fork lower clamps and then the axle has a little flip out lever so you can undo by hand.
Brakes are Hope Tech 3/E4 running with 200mm rotors with a Hope 'C' adapter mount (so it probably should be running 203mm)

The clearance of the disc on the fork mount post/Hope adapter mount is a hair width if that! The caliper is at the very limit of of adjustment ...and I think the pots are off centre to accommodate too.

Pics of fork without wheel, disc gap from above and below, and caliper mount to show adjustment right over one side.

I need to shift the centre of the hub over away from the caliper side to gain a couple of mm (2-4mm) clearance.

I want to do this as I want to buy new discs so want to rectify the issue.

I've emailed Mavic and gave them the serial number on the rim but it was like they didn't understand what I was describing and then gave me an answer totally irrelevant to my question so I gave up. I've looked up the exploded diagram of the hub, read through the manuals and seen reference to 'adjusting the play' in the hub and 'centering' the hub but I can't find a video on exactly how its done?

I've got the plastic mavic spoke/tyre lever/hub tool and I'm aware that if I can shift the hub over I'll have to then redo the spokes to centre the rim again - not a problem.

If anyone can shed some light on this I'd really appreciate it as even a pine needle could jam up my front wheel if it entered in the right spot.





Thanks

Jon

mully79

My rear mount is super close like that. Just is what it is. Dont worry about it.

j_matthews7

If it was on the rear I'd be less bothered tbh as locking the rear doesn't stick you over the bars 😄

There must be some adjustment i can do?

I'm wondering if there's a difference between part L30870500 and L30870501 as both seem to be a 20mm axle hub kits...maybe one is slightly over one side more?

j_matthews7

As the floating rotor rivets pass the caliper mount the gap is x3 sheets of A4 paper thick 😬

mully79

It really doesnt matter. It is not going to jam the wheel.

Have you tried removing the calliper and remounting the adapter ? Is there adjustment in the adapter position ?

j_matthews7

The caliper is adjusted as much as possible. Its the actual fork leg and caliper mount that the disc is close too.

The only thing I can think to do is take some off the 20mm axle adapter one side and add spacers to the other...if there is no adjustment in the hub itself.....

steve_sordy

I have no detail knowledge of the hub design that can help you, but.........

I agree that clearance is way too small for comfort. You should be able to get the seam down the calliper body (where the two halves meet) to be exactly over the disc.

Is the wheel in the dead centre of the fork? By how much do you need to move the wheel and/or the calliper to put the disc in the centre of the calliper body?

If the wheel is not central then that would be the best place to start. It may need the spokes adjusting to move the rim over. An LBS should be able to do this quite quickly. This may also help your steering. A wheel not running central to the fork steerer cannot be a good thing.

If the wheel is central, then the next best place to look is the interface between the calliper and the mounts. Can anything be done there? (Bearing in mind that if it looked obvious, you would have done it already).

Have you thought about filing out the bolt slots on the calliper body to allow you to move the calliper a bit further? You would not need much to avoid your concern about jamming the wheel.

Again, if the wheel is central, the calliper body interface and/or slot filing are non -starters, then the only other thing I can think of is your suggestion about the axle. If you can see a mechanical solution by adjusting the QR axle, then I'd consider doing it, but that will move the wheel so that it is no longer running central to the fork steerer. That may cause a few problems all by itself!

What if you change the calliper? Is it possible to try a different make? Can you borrow one to try, or measure one?

I'm out of ideas now. Tricky without actually being able to lay hands on. Good luck!

mully79

I have had a quick look at the exploded diagram. Typical Mavic. They seem to have their own special way so perhaps there is adjustment or maybe things are offset and it has been assembled incorrectly. It doesnt help that you probably need special tools.

Anyhow. If it was me I would measure the distance from the fork stanchion to the rim on each side and write then down. (Be careful not to scratch fork.)

Now take wheel out and fit it backwards so the disk is on the wrong side. Re-measure distance between fork and rim on both sides and compare to previous.

If theres a big difference then there maybe some adjustment in the hub or the axle has been passed through from the wrong side when assembled (if it is offset)

If theres no difference between measurements your probably wasting your time faffing further.

The science is that manufacturers dont usually offset the dish on front wheel hubs though in Mavics case I have no idea.