Road tyres 2 questions
And do peeps ever mix and match tyre sizes for a bit more comfort or is it verboten. ie running a slightly larger rear 700x 25 front
700x 28 rear
Comments
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They are cheap and don't necessarily have the best build quality, but in terms of value vs performance vs puncture protection I swear by the LifeLine Prime Armour. Never had a puncture on my 25s in multiple years, and only two punctures on the 28s. Been using them all year round for a few years now and won't use anything else on my commute. Respectable weight as well.
I honestly don't see how they can be criticised for £15 a tyre. The Contis I tried that were meant to be very well rated for puncture protection got me 2 punctures in as many weeks. They may have been a bit more comfortable and a little faster...but any gain in moving speed is irrelevant when you're stopped at the side of the path swapping tubes on a regular basis.0 -
You might not need need more puncture resistant tyres, it could simply be your Duranos are badly worn that would increase puncture frequency, plus your routes might be littered in flints etc. from the winter rain.
What size tyres can your bike accomodate? I like GP4 Seasons in winter months for their extra sidewall protection, but GP5000 for their performance in summer, then again I've only had a handful of punctures in the South Downs lanes in the last four years.
On the urban commute I often run a 38mm Marathon Cross up front and a 35mm Marathon Supreme on the rear.
As for mixing tyre widths, I'm guilty, been doing this a lot since last year. Currently 23mm GP5000 on the front and a 28mm (that is really very close to 32mm) GP4000S II on the rear, I was running a 25mm GP5000 on the rear last summer but I've wanted the extra comfort on the few outings I've had in the last month!================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
Canyon spec the new Aeroad with a 25 front and a 28 rear.0
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You must have a really empty life.0
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Are you a bully in real life as well.0
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I have used Continental GatorSkins for years without any puncture or flats.0
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I cycle on rural roads with lots of potholes and often thorns from farmers hedge slashing and I can't say I have really noticed much difference in frequency of punctures between different tyres, neither has my cycling buddy. We don't seem to get many punctures.
So I just buy whatever tyres of a known make are being sold at high discount in the size I need!0 -
Whats with the weird comments guys??
I will look at the gp5000's0 -
Vittoria open paves.0
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Well its a kinesis cyclocross bike i am using it just on the road. I do live near plenty of bike tracks but up my way at the minute there rammed due to the pandemic as daft as that sounds. Re sizes it can take I dont know I have never ran anything different to whats on. I think it would easy take 28's or 30'sN0bodyOfTheGoat said:You might not need need more puncture resistant tyres, it could simply be your Duranos are badly worn that would increase puncture frequency, plus your routes might be littered in flints etc. from the winter rain.
What size tyres can your bike accomodate? I like GP4 Seasons in winter months for their extra sidewall protection, but GP5000 for their performance in summer, then again I've only had a handful of punctures in the South Downs lanes in the last four years.
On the urban commute I often run a 38mm Marathon Cross up front and a 35mm Marathon Supreme on the rear.
As for mixing tyre widths, I'm guilty, been doing this a lot since last year. Currently 23mm GP5000 on the front and a 28mm (that is really very close to 32mm) GP4000S II on the rear, I was running a 25mm GP5000 on the rear last summer but I've wanted the extra comfort on the few outings I've had in the last month!0 -
I ride GP 5000 tyres on my summer bikes, but I wouldn’t run them in winter. For that I use Conti 4 Seasons - very good, reasonable puncture protection and still quite grippy. I have heard Gatorskins are not too grippy int he wet....siberianski said:Whats with the weird comments guys??
I will look at the gp5000's
PP
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It’s standard practice on a motorcycle (mostly) to run a narrower tyre/wheel on the front, in fact mine is a smaller diameter also, together with a lower pressure (good reasons for it too). I don’t see why the same shouldn’t apply to a bicycle. I have a 23x700 front (80psi) and 25x700 rear (100psi) for example.
On the questions of puncher protection and grip the two don’t really go hand-in-hand. I’ve ran Gatorskins for years, great tyres in my opinion as far as protection is concerned. As for grip in the wet, jury’s out on that one, what does grip, cold and wet? add a little diesel, petrol or oil into the mix - Not a lot!
But then again, what lean angles are we talking about?
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