New Chain Problems
Comments
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1 more question though.
The current one is 11-34T and the new one has 11-40T. What difference will this make and is it a good or bad idea?
Same 9 speed beacuse i know that fits my hub!0 -
You will probably need to lengthen your chain.0
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Your biggest sprocket has got bigger by 6 teeth, so you will need more chain to go round it.0
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I thought you had resolved those by getting a new cassette. Or do you mean having a different size cassette. If so it’s possible your rear mech might not be able to handle a 40 t sprocket. If it can you will have an easier gear for going up hill although you have big jumps between the gears.0
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Nah i changed the front chainrings because those were worn. After changing them chain started skipping on some gears behind.webboo said:I thought you had resolved those by getting a new cassette. Or do you mean having a different size cassette. If so it’s possible your rear mech might not be able to handle a 40 t sprocket. If it can you will have an easier gear for going up hill although you have big jumps between the gears.
Anyway i read on shimanos website that maximum T for upper sprocket is 36. To not mess things up i will order the same size0 -
Shimano website always gives very safe figures.
If you have more than one front chain ring then the 11- 36 will give you a nice spread of gears.
The 11- 40t is mostly for people running single ring drivetrains.0 -
Steve is generally bang on in his comments. Here he is too, the whole drive train is worn bar the new chain. it's never going to work properly.
being pedantic yes you can of course replace the chain and get away with it but that requires a change before the rest is mangled.
I don't know why there's so much viciousness in a tech support group. especially when everyone was broadly right.0 -
Thank you all for the tips and tricks!
------Problem solved-------
Exchanged the cassette and the problem went away. Now the drivetrain runs smoothly again. Did not know those things wear so fast (2 seasons) Though i have been riding much and hard in the woods. Was going just for a new chain but it ended with 2 new chainrings and a new cassette aswell
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I used to envy the many thousands of miles per chain claimed by road bikers (I believe them!) But I ride my MTB in dirty places.
Despite keeping my chain clean and lubeing before every ride, on 7, 9 and 10-speed chains I averaged about 650 miles per chain and never managed to get more than three chains out of a cassette. That was a mixed experience over 2x and 3x transmissions and many different bikes.
Then I went to an Eagle 1x12 and I was on target for getting six times the life out of the chain. That was despite riding in the same way and in the same places. I sold the bike at 1500 miles and it was still on the same chain. The last time I measured the chain it was at 1403miles and had 0.25% length extension.
I am now on a 1x11 (on an emtb which generally wears out the transmission a lot faster) and I got 1706m at 0.4%. At which point the SLX cassette was knackered, so I fitted a new XT cassette and also a new chain. The new chain had done 629m at 0.29% when I last measured it. When it gets to 0.4% or thereabouts, I will remove the chain, put to one side and then refit the old one. When that wears I will refit the previous chain. This is an experiment to see if I can maintain shifting performance while reducing expenditure on the kit.
The 1x drives I have had seem to give longer chain life, why is that? This may because the chain is flexed sideways less than on 2x and 3x. That may be an illusion though, because the 2-3x rider is supposed to keep the chain as straight as possible by intelligent gear selection and not cross hobbling. So is it the chain design? Sram claimed that their Eagle 12-speed chains were a radical new design and they certainly looked different! But my Shimano 11-speed doesn't look any different and I'm doing well with that one too. So if not design, then is it materials? Maybe paying extra for hardened pins could be worth it?0
