Newbie looking for some wheel advice...

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and new to road cycling so forgive me if my post makes little sense πŸ‘‹

I started cycling in the summer and I'm really enjoying it. I recently purchaed a used Canyon Endurace CF 8.0 and I absolutely love it.

It currently has DT Swiss R24 Spline wheels which are tubeless ready. However, I'm looking to change the wheels as I can't stand the silver rim 😬

I have little knowledge about bikes and almost zero knowledge about wheelsets. GCN videos are currently my source for information 🀭 Searching online has confused me further..

This is where you guys can hopefully assist me 🀞

Can anyone advise me of any particular wheelsets I can look at that meet the requirements below -

1. Tubeless ready (I want to fit GP5000TL tyres)
2. Loud hub/clicking sound (my DT Swiss wheels are really loud and I love it).
3. NO silver rims (where the brakes meet the wheels). Does this mean I need carbon?
4. No deepset wheels (midsection look great, but are they appropriate?)
5. Must be superior to my current wheels in terms of performance. I have no idea if my current wheels are good or not but if i'm changing my wheels (even if it's primarily for aesthetic reasons), I'd want them to be better than what I currently have (does that simply mean lighter?).

If anyone can help suggest some wheels, new or used, or even give me some pointers in terms of what keywords I should be searching on eBay, I'd be very grateful πŸ™‚

The cheaper the better, so used wheels would be ideal.



Β«1

Comments

  • https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2816726318645549/

    I saw these on facebook marketplace. The seller said they have a loud tick and are tubeless ready... Any good? Fairly priced? Anything i should be checking in particular?
  • Mavic wheels with the Exalith brake track?

    https://www.merlincycles.com/mavic-ksyrium-pro-exalith-clincher-road-wheelset-2020-211366.html?utm_source=PHG&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&ucpo=129796&source=PHG

    Never used an Exalith brake track but it's supposed to be better than a regular alloy one. To be honest though if I was spending that kind of money I'd be looking at getting deeper wheels as they'll give you the performance benefit you're looking for.
  • @joe_totale-2 thanks for the reply.

    Those wheels do look good but very expensive (for me!). My bike was under Β£1k so I can't justify spending so much on wheels.

    What performance gains are made with deeper wheels? Is it simply a case of weight and aero? Are mid section any good (I prefer the look of them)?

    Any thoughts on the link I posted?

    Also, are my current wheels any good/worth anything?
  • Be careful what you wish for regarding depth of rim / shroud. The deep section rims look good, but they can be a bit of an eye opener if you ride in a cross wind. Also be wary of GP5000 TL tyres. They are an absolute nightmare regarding fitting, and pretty much won’t go over certain rims at all.
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288

    Be careful what you wish for regarding depth of rim / shroud. The deep section rims look good, but they can be a bit of an eye opener if you ride in a cross wind. Also be wary of GP5000 TL tyres. They are an absolute nightmare regarding fitting, and pretty much won’t go over certain rims at all.

    He explicitly said he doesn't want deep section rims.
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,833
    The wheels you have are perfectly decent. You will get absolutely no performance gains from switching to another shallow section rim.

    To get a black braking surface you'll need to either go for carbon or something like the Mavic Exalith or DT Swiss Dicut Oxic. The question is whether you're willing to spend the money involved for purely aesthetic reasons.

    https://www.merlincycles.com/dt-swiss-pr1400-dicut-oxic-21-clincher-road-wheels-700c-101032.html?utm_source=PHG&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&ucpo=39877&source=PHG
    https://www.merlincycles.com/dt-swiss-pr1400-dicut-oxic-32-clincher-road-wheels-700c-198126.html
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    edited February 2021

    Hi everyone,

    I'm new here and new to road cycling so forgive me if my post makes little sense πŸ‘‹

    I started cycling in the summer and I'm really enjoying it. I recently purchaed a used Canyon Endurace CF 8.0 and I absolutely love it.

    It currently has DT Swiss R24 Spline wheels which are tubeless ready. However, I'm looking to change the wheels as I can't stand the silver rim 😬

    I have little knowledge about bikes and almost zero knowledge about wheelsets. GCN videos are currently my source for information 🀭 Searching online has confused me further..

    This is where you guys can hopefully assist me 🀞

    Can anyone advise me of any particular wheelsets I can look at that meet the requirements below -

    1. Tubeless ready (I want to fit GP5000TL tyres)
    2. Loud hub/clicking sound (my DT Swiss wheels are really loud and I love it).
    3. NO silver rims (where the brakes meet the wheels). Does this mean I need carbon?
    4. No deepset wheels (midsection look great, but are they appropriate?)
    5. Must be superior to my current wheels in terms of performance. I have no idea if my current wheels are good or not but if i'm changing my wheels (even if it's primarily for aesthetic reasons), I'd want them to be better than what I currently have (does that simply mean lighter?).

    If anyone can help suggest some wheels, new or used, or even give me some pointers in terms of what keywords I should be searching on eBay, I'd be very grateful πŸ™‚

    The cheaper the better, so used wheels would be ideal.



    You don't mention what your budget is.
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    edited February 2021
    shortfall said:

    Be careful what you wish for regarding depth of rim / shroud. The deep section rims look good, but they can be a bit of an eye opener if you ride in a cross wind. Also be wary of GP5000 TL tyres. They are an absolute nightmare regarding fitting, and pretty much won’t go over certain rims at all.

    He explicitly said he doesn't want deep section rims.
    To be fair he says midsection is alright, as with the budget though he could do with clarifying what he defines as being deep section and midsection.

    If his budget isn't that that big then I'd recommend sticking with the current wheels and getting used to the silver brake track.
  • @mrb123 very helpful links πŸ‘ thank you.
    mrb123 said:

    You will get absolutely no performance gains from switching to another shallow section rim.

    This is certainly food for thought! I have to really ask myself; should I be spending this money purely for aesthetic reasons? Even though i'm not a 'proper' cyclist, I think i was subconsciously trying to justify this with the idea that the performance would be improving πŸ˜‚

    Do i need to consider deepset? I'm not a huge fan of the the huge deepset wheels tbh, and I'm assuming they are even more pricey!

    Budget... Hmm.. I'm not entirely sure to be honest 😬 i think it depends on what my current wheels would sell for (£100 or so?)

    Based on the links provided I'll need to go down the used route for sure, so the budget will probably Β£300 (ish). Hopefully I can claw something back from the sale of my current wheels.
    Is this budget unrealistic? I have no idea what the bike parts market us like.

    @joe_totale-2

    If his budget isn't that that big then I'd recommend sticking with the current wheels and getting used to the silver brake track.

    Not what I was hoping for but you may be right πŸ‘
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,662
    You could get some archetypes? I think they so go silver on the brake track eventually though

    https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/zenith-freewheel-hubs-100-126mm-or-100-130mm-old-wheelset-laced-to-h-plus-son-rims?

    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    edited February 2021

    @mrb123 very helpful links πŸ‘ thank you.

    mrb123 said:

    You will get absolutely no performance gains from switching to another shallow section rim.

    This is certainly food for thought! I have to really ask myself; should I be spending this money purely for aesthetic reasons? Even though i'm not a 'proper' cyclist, I think i was subconsciously trying to justify this with the idea that the performance would be improving πŸ˜‚

    Do i need to consider deepset? I'm not a huge fan of the the huge deepset wheels tbh, and I'm assuming they are even more pricey!

    Budget... Hmm.. I'm not entirely sure to be honest 😬 i think it depends on what my current wheels would sell for (£100 or so?)

    Based on the links provided I'll need to go down the used route for sure, so the budget will probably Β£300 (ish). Hopefully I can claw something back from the sale of my current wheels.
    Is this budget unrealistic? I have no idea what the bike parts market us like.

    @joe_totale-2

    If his budget isn't that that big then I'd recommend sticking with the current wheels and getting used to the silver brake track.

    Not what I was hoping for but you may be right πŸ‘
    On your budget and with your limited experience as a cyclist I would stick with what you have until they need replacing. As above, if you absolutely must have black rims then the Archetypes fit the bill and Cycle Clinic does various options that should come in at or under the Β£300 mark and will be excellent and reliable wheels capable of many thousands of trouble free miles. There is much BS talked about deep section wheels but basically there are some small but real speed advantages to be had and it's up to you whether it's worth the extra expense for you given your level of fitness and the type of riding you're doing.
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,833
    I have the Archetypes. The black coating on the rim does not last more than a few hundred kms. In fact, one long ride in wet and gritty conditions and you could pretty much banjo it in one go.

    If the OP would consider handbuilts I think Ryde do some with a black coating that does last as per the Mavic or DT Swiss versions. Try DCR wheels - I think he sometimes builds with them.
  • Thanks for the further input everyone. I think @shortfall has summed it up, even though it's not what I was hoping to hear! It's probably best to stick with what i've got considering how much I use my bike etc. Certainly not advanced enough to justify thousands on carbon deepset wheels. Doing embarrassing 30 odd mile rides and averaging world record breaking speeds of 14mph πŸ˜‚ i should probably be thinking about investing the money in to an electric bike lol.

    Any thoughts on the link i posted from Facebook marketplace? Seem pretty cheap and would achieve what I want?

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2816726318645549/

    What about these? Not sure if the seller will drop much but has the tyres too which is an added bonus I guess -

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174621092337
  • Carbon rim brake wheels have worse braking performance in the wet, I know from personal experience that when it's properly raining it's pretty damn scary to be using them. Also you'd need to factor in buying carbon rim brake blocks if the seller doesn't provide them as you can't use the same ones that you'll currently have fitted for your alloy wheels.

    In my opinion rim brake carbon wheels are only worth it if you go deep and utilise the aerodynamic advantage it gives you.
  • What are they like in the dry? I don't really ride in the wet (unless it randomly starts raining of course!).

    The eBay seller said he'd include them, although they seem pretty cheap on eBay anyway.
  • They should be fine in the dry. Just don't drag your brakes down a long descent as they can get pretty damn hot as carbon isn't as good at dispersing heat as alloy is.

    It's unlikely but there's stories of people delaminating their carbon wheels due to excessive rim braking but I believe this is less of a risk with more modern carbon wheels.
  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    Having descended some steep climbs on the North York Moors which required me to brake a lot due to steep 20/25% hairpin bends. When I felt my rims at the bottom they were warm not hot. I guess they might get a bit hotter depending an alpine pass.
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,833
    Those Cero wheels probably aren't a bad option...if you feel it is worth 500 notes to have black brake tracks rather than silver. It's your money...
  • s2_dpd
    s2_dpd Posts: 46

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2816726318645549/

    I saw these on facebook marketplace. The seller said they have a loud tick and are tubeless ready... Any good? Fairly priced? Anything i should be checking in particular?

    where abouts are you based - although I'm on Facebook the link is for Dunfermline?

    if up this way think about the weather conditions for carbon rims/brakes - wet weather stopping is generally poor, getting grit into the pads will wear out the rims more quickly

    I have a set of Mavic with Exalith track on my rim brake bike
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644

    They should be fine in the dry. Just don't drag your brakes down a long descent as they can get pretty damn hot as carbon isn't as good at dispersing heat as alloy is.

    It's unlikely but there's stories of people delaminating their carbon wheels due to excessive rim braking but I believe this is less of a risk with more modern carbon wheels.

    Never had a problem in either the Alps or the Abruzzo mountains with deep rim tubular carbons running at about 952psi

    I suppose it all depends on whether you know how to descend properly.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • What are they like in the dry? I don't really ride in the wet (unless it randomly starts raining of course!).

    The eBay seller said he'd include them, although they seem pretty cheap on eBay anyway.

    If you do decide to go the carbon route, then the Lifeline carbon brake pads from Wiggle are a very good price - I have used them on Prime Carbon rims for a while now and they are fine. I don't really take that particular bike out in the bad weather, so I can't speak for wet weather performance.
  • pangolin
    pangolin Posts: 6,662
    MattFalle said:

    They should be fine in the dry. Just don't drag your brakes down a long descent as they can get pretty damn hot as carbon isn't as good at dispersing heat as alloy is.

    It's unlikely but there's stories of people delaminating their carbon wheels due to excessive rim braking but I believe this is less of a risk with more modern carbon wheels.

    Never had a problem in either the Alps or the Abruzzo mountains with deep rim tubular carbons running at about 952psi

    I suppose it all depends on whether you know how to descend properly.
    You must have one hell of a track pump
    - Genesis Croix de Fer
    - Dolan Tuono
  • s_mhd_malik
    s_mhd_malik Posts: 16
    edited February 2021
    @mrb123
    mrb123 said:

    Those Cero wheels probably aren't a bad option...if you feel it is worth 500 notes to have black brake tracks rather than silver. It's your money...

    Yes, i think so too. Just not sure I can justify the expense, especially after the advice everyone has shared.

    @s2_dpd
    s2_dpd said:

    where abouts are you based - although I'm on Facebook the link is for Dunfermline?

    The wheels being sold are near London I think. I'm in the Midlands, so shouldn't be an issue πŸ‘

    @lakesluddite will keep that in mind if I do end up going carbon. Thanks
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,872
    Those facebook wheels are only 10% worn but have had to have the bearings and freehub replaced. Seems unlikely to me.
  • https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193878718324

    Thoughts on these πŸ‘€
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193878718324

    Thoughts on these πŸ‘€


    Absolutely no provenance whatsoever. Step away.
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
    Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    And you can get a brand new pair of carbon Cero 45mm for Β£629... with that in mind, spending Β£500 on second hand ones - unseen until they land on your doorstep - doesn't look like a good move.

    https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/wheels/cero-rc45-evo-carbon-clincher-wheelset-2017
    Ben

    Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
    Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/
  • s_mhd_malik
    s_mhd_malik Posts: 16
    edited February 2021
    @Ben6899 πŸ‘

    I made an offer of Β£300 for the Cero set on eBay as it had recent gp5000tl's fitted (something I planned to do regardless). But he wanted Β£450 so I passed.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    pangolin said:

    MattFalle said:

    They should be fine in the dry. Just don't drag your brakes down a long descent as they can get pretty damn hot as carbon isn't as good at dispersing heat as alloy is.

    It's unlikely but there's stories of people delaminating their carbon wheels due to excessive rim braking but I believe this is less of a risk with more modern carbon wheels.

    Never had a problem in either the Alps or the Abruzzo mountains with deep rim tubular carbons running at about 952psi

    I suppose it all depends on whether you know how to descend properly.
    You must have one hell of a track pump
    i just use a normal frame pump but am incredibly strong.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.