Vitus Rapide internal Routing

I’ve recently picked up a Vitus Rapide and saw that the rear mech cable is running externally when it should be running internally.
This has been bugging me for a while trying to work out why the previous owner ran it externally. So I tried to put a cable into where it should go and can’t for the life of me get it to go through. I tried going in from both ends but both appear to be blocked.
I’ve tried the usual, poke a spoke, wiggle a gear cable, and nothing. Has anyone any experience with a Vitus or other blockages that can shed and light on this. I can’t get access from under the bb at the frame so was also thinking of removing the bb shell to see if I can get in from that way. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Comments

  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited January 2021
    Hi. Don't know your Vitus specifically but have had the misfortune of needing to internally route cables a few times. 🤬

    How is the cable cable running externally, as in does the frame have bosses to fix the cable outside or is it bodge fitted with cable ties etc?

    Guessing either the spare internal routing could be for a dropper post or the previous owner replaced the shift cable and would have had the same trouble trying to route internally and gave up? 🤔
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Cable was fitted in with cable ties to the top tube, so I made that tidy with some stick on cable holders (that use a c-clip), it’s definitely internally cabled as there is an opening on the chainstay near the rear mech. It’s a proper head scratcher!
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Is it the carbon or alu frame?
    Looking at pictures on line the rear mech cable is a continuous internal run from the top of the down tube to the end of the chain stay on the carbon model. I would think it is almost impossible to refit that without removing the bb.

    I have had success with akward cables in the past by threading a thin piece of gardening wire through the frame then sliding the gear outer cable over it. Once that is in place remove the wire and insert the gear inner cable. If you can get hold of a strong magnet it can be used to guide the wire through the frame.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited January 2021
    ed1973 said:

    Cable was fitted in with cable ties to the top tube, so I made that tidy with some stick on cable holders (that use a c-clip), it’s definitely internally cabled as there is an opening on the chainstay near the rear mech. It’s a proper head scratcher!

    So the previous owner gave up trying and you have inherited the problem. 😬

    I suppose the last owner obviously didn't leave the inner shift cable threaded through the frame for easy internal rerouting of cables and not realising until it was too late?

    As JBA says removal of the bb to get cable past that point and won't be blockages anywhere just the usual difficulty threading cables from scratch using all kinds of methods to get it done. 😬

    For what it's worth I've used the method of attaching string to inner or outer, threading through the frame and using a vacuum cleaner nozzle to suck string out of the last section of frame and last exit port successfully a few times. Good luck with whatever method you try as it's usually a tricky frustrating prospect.🤞
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Thanks for the replies guys, yep it’s a carbon frame. I’m going to remove the bb (it’s a race face one, does that use the same tool as a Shimano external bb?) be a nice albeit frustrating little project during lockdown though ha ha
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    I’ll keep you guys posted as I know people like to hear about the progress after giving some advise.
    Although take it as no news is good news!
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited January 2021
    I've got the Race Face Ride cranks and recently borrowed my Buddy's Shimano external bb tool and it fits fine.

    If you have the same Race Face Ride cranks you'll need an ISIS crank puller to remove the driveside crank arm.

    Looking forward to not hearing the final results as you will have sorted it all out! 😃👍
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    My mistake, I should have said no news is bad news. Sorry about that 🤣. And yep thanks for the heads up, I’ve got the crank puller
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    You said it right, no news is taken as good news. 😎

    Personally like an update either way for more possible help/advice/tips but hopefully a congrats to you on a job well done! 💯👌
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Update.
    I’m gonna go at it from the BB. First need the right removal tool, Shimano one doesn’t fit, new one I bought doesn’t fit (that’ll teach me to research properly) so I’m now waiting for my third tool. Hope this one fits. Anyone who needs a bb replacing get yourself here I’ve got all the bb removal tools!
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    🤯 In what way are the bb tools not fitting???

    My Race Face Ride cranks with Race Face X-Type bb fits the Shimano wrench bb tool perfectly, don't get it?

    https://pedros.com/faqs/how-do-i-know-which-bottom-bracket-tool-i-need/
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    As I’ve now found out it’s a race face cinch and needs a 12t tool 🤦‍♂️
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    edited January 2021
    thread from the headtube entrance down to the bottom bracket, thread the outer or liner over the thread and push up to and out of the headtube opening.

    then feed fishing line or a park type routing tool from the back and into the bottom bracket area, thread the other end of outer/liner over the line/routing tool and thread through and out the back of the bike. remove the cable/threadingtool/line and cut the outer to size after pulling the slack out and ensuring theres enough for both ends


    thats the method ive settled on as the easiest if there's any initial resistance.





  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    ed1973 said:

    As I’ve now found out it’s a race face cinch and needs a 12t tool 🤦‍♂️

    Aw no! 😭 I assume you have the 30mm spindle cranks rather than the 24mm diameter version?
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    david37 said:

    thread from the headtube entrance down to the bottom bracket, thread the outer or liner over the thread and push up to and out of the headtube opening.

    then feed fishing line or a park type routing tool from the back and into the bottom bracket area, thread the other end of outer/liner over the line/routing tool and thread through and out the back of the bike. remove the cable/threadingtool/line and cut the outer to size after pulling the slack out and ensuring theres enough for both ends


    thats the method ive settled on as the easiest if there's any initial resistance.





    Thanks for this, I’ll certainly give it a go once I’ve unblocked the chainstay.
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284

    ed1973 said:

    As I’ve now found out it’s a race face cinch and needs a 12t tool 🤦‍♂️

    Aw no! 😭 I assume you have the 30mm spindle cranks rather than the 24mm diameter version?
    You assume correctly 😤
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Update, new tool fits and bb is off, with a firm wire, a drill and some soapy water I made it through the blockage. Now I have a inner cable going in from the down tube and a different wire going through the chainstay, I have 2 ends coming out of my bb. So will hot gluing the wires together, pulling and praying or is there a better way to attach the two ends. They need to be end to end to fit through the small hole coming out of the chainstay to the rear mech
  • mully79
    mully79 Posts: 904
    If you cut half the strands from each end of the two cables you should be able to splice them together and end up with a cable the same diameter.
    Personally i'd use a bit of solder.
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Splice it, great idea, thanks you are a star!
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    Final update. Splicing got me part the way as far as I got the guide cable up to the top but ended up being too thick to go the other way. Quick call to a friend and down he came with a soldering iron. Joined the 2 together pulled through (very gently) and hey presto I was in business. Cable cut and attached to rear mech quick shift check - nothing. Kept trying then ended up literally pulling the stopper off the end of the cable inside the shifter. So it all started again 🤦‍♂️. I had to take the shifter apart to retrieve the stopper thingy and then rebuild the shifter (thanks YouTube). After some jumping around and swearing I decided to stop and leave it for the day.
    Woke this morning with eternal optimism and started again. Cables soldered together, carefully pulled and we were in business. Attached the cable to the rear mech properly and bingo, a quick indexing and now it’s all done.
    Thank you to everyone who has helped and kept me going!!
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited January 2021
    Yay! Congrats @ed1973, mission accomplished! 🥳👏

    Definitely one of the trickiest jobs now complete, enjoy the sense of achievement. 💪😎
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    :)
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    well done
  • mully79
    mully79 Posts: 904
    Awesome job B)