Stroker ryde pad noise and replacement quick release skewers

Merida tfs 100 trail .

Got earlier in the year and do like it alot .

I know the skewers been replaced at some point as well as discs and pads etc

Serviced a couple month ago .At local shop to me cycles uk.
Just over a week ago though rear brake not the best . Looked at pads and they seemed low . As cycles uk mins away from home got them to get me some new pads in .( organic ) didnt ask for the just gave me those and nothing mentioned on the discs
They done the service
Got the pads fitted yesterday evening .
Think i messed up some how as the rubbing was unreal.

Loosen side to side on caliper . Held brake to centralise and tighten .
Got it ok ish . Went out on the bike not great but thought will get bedded in on a ride saturday .
Out today . 10 miles .
Lots of rubbing . Stopped . Tweaked . Got it kinda ok but now lots of noise when using and slight rubbing .

Plan now : hope these steps are correct !

1.I didnt use a card between pads and rotor when fitting and centralising caliper so will try that first

2. If above doesnt work try checking for even movement on pistons . If not even. Hold the good one and allow the not so good one to free and lube up

3. If that doesnt work also check discs .

( if they are warped should all info be on the disc rotor for replacements ? I know it doesnt mention which pads to use )




While im messing around with the wheels . When i had the bike serviced was told to keep and eye on the hope skewers . Check for grit etc and if i can change them out .

If im going to do this what should i look for specific for my mtb .. any to avoid any reccomended ?

Looking online . Tredz etc and amazon and unsure if any will work or do i need specific

Thanks in advance :)




Comments

  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19
    Ok so think alot is to do with the discs .

    Grooves now in the pads






    Old are black new are blue






  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19
    Front and rear
    Unsure wht pads were on originally ?,




  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited December 2020
    Hi Dave. First off those blue pads look dark compared to the worn pads which suggests they're contaminated. The colour should be the same light grey with a matte looking finish. If so that could be the cause for noise when braking and the first thing to address.

    A light even sanding with fine sandpaper could restore them if the contamination isn't too severe.

    Would also thoroughly clean the rotor too as not to re-contaminate pads if there is some sort of residue on that.

    Because the original pads are worn the pistons will be extended out of the bore so when replacing with unworn pads the pistons would need fully recessing back into the caliper to allow max rotor/pad clearance. Use something plastic (e.g. tyre lever) to push pistons back as not to damage them.

    A few methods of caliper alignment can be used but a basic method is the lever squeeze and nip up mounting bolts slightly then release the lever. Alignment can sometimes go off as the mount bolts are tightened so I usually keep an eye that the clearance gaps don't change when fully tightening them.

    A torch shining through from underneath, aligning by eye is a good way to get a clear view, works well for me and is my chosen method.

    Not sure why you would need new skewers as they should be fine and can be taken apart, cleaned and a very small amount of grease or lube where needed would all that's required to rule out most issues.

    Finding replacement skewers isn't complicated or expensive but doubt it would come to needing to replace them and I'd consider this unnecessary for now. Same with rotors, unless they are badly out of true which I doubt is the case.
  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19

    Hi Dave. First off those blue pads look dark compared to the worn pads which suggests they're contaminated. The colour should be the same light grey with a matte looking finish. If so that could be the cause for noise when braking and the first thing to address.

    A light even sanding with fine sandpaper could restore them if the contamination isn't too severe.

    Would also thoroughly clean the rotor too as not to re-contaminate pads if there is some sort of residue on that.

    Because the original pads are worn the pistons will be extended out of the bore so when replacing with unworn pads the pistons would need fully recessing back into the caliper to allow max rotor/pad clearance. Use something plastic (e.g. tyre lever) to push pistons back as not to damage them.

    A few methods of caliper alignment can be used but a basic method is the lever squeeze and nip up mounting bolts slightly then release the lever. Alignment can sometimes go off as the mount bolts are tightened so I usually keep an eye that the clearance gaps don't change when fully tightening them.

    A torch shining through from underneath, aligning by eye is a good way to get a clear view, works well for me and is my chosen method.

    Not sure why you would need new skewers as they should be fine and can be taken apart, cleaned and a very small amount of grease or lube where needed would all that's required to rule out most issues.

    Finding replacement skewers isn't complicated or expensive but doubt it would come to needing to replace them and I'd consider this unnecessary for now. Same with rotors, unless they are badly out of true which I doubt is the case.


    Thanks for the reply :)

    Blue pads i rubbed down slightly before installing and rubbed realy bad at first . Tweaked them and got ok . Went for casual ride out and over 10miles and sound unreal when using them . Mamaged to tweak a bit more . Going to have to have another play or try another brand or even sinterd . Just wish i knew which type were on originally as the y were great

    Pistons pushed back

    Everything installed .
    Any piston that was holding back i held the other untill it freed a little and both pushed out the same

    Im wondering now if i pressed the lever too much to set caliper ?

    I do also think i need to get the brakes bled too . Something i aint ever done.
    Maybe some one can advise on a basic kit to do it as its a mine fieldl out there sooo many options. Plus the dot 4 fluid

    Plus learned the stroker ryde doesnt use the spring clip just the pad pin . Although i do need two of the end clips once i know the size 🙄

    The skewers was just some thing that was mentioned . Maybe iy was the guys preferance as they were not trying to get me to buy any more off them
    But i did think of getting some that fit the bike colours a bit more :)

    Thanks in advance :)
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited December 2020
    😎👍First and most obvious problem is the pads should have spring clips to push them away from the rotors when lever is released. I've not dealt with Heyes brakes before but not come across any brakes that don't require pad springs.



    Any resin pads are good enough and a safe bet for performance and being compatible with all rotors. Sintered pads would be worth buying if you notice pads wear out too quickly.

    Pressing the lever hard or soft makes no difference with set up, the only thing to be careful of is pressing lever without the rotor in between which advances pistons and in extreme cases ejecting them fully.

    A specific Heyes bleed kit mentioning compatible models with their own fluid included is the best one to choose. Some brake brands have certain adaptors to fit but generally kits are basic syringes, hoses and simple clips to cut off oil flow before attaching or removing to avoid spills or contamination.

    https://epicbleedsolutions.com/products/hayes-stroker-bleed-kit

    Brake bleeding is straightforward and there's plenty of good YouTube tutorials to help with all aspects and advise. Epic Bleed Solutions do good kits with clear instructions and are very helpful if you feel the need to contact them for any reason

    Hope skewers are good quality but reckon sort out brakes first before thinking about treating yourself, lol!🎅😀
  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19
    Looking for the link that states stroker ryde have magnets ..but that may be with original pads .
    Bike was fully serviced a few month ago . Just trying to contact now to see if any what brake gluid they used so can get the same or would in not matter 4.1 or 5.1 as top up :)

    And yer ill sort brakes out before skewers 😂
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited December 2020
    Ah, I see. I've heard about magnetized pistons being used but didn't know which brakes use them, you will see if the pads retract as they should. Won't harm anything to have pad springs in place in case.

    When you sanded the pads did you get a nice matte light grey surface? If not there's the 'disco interno' method using a blow torch to de contaminate pads but never tried it. Although sometimes pads can be too far gone to be salvageable.

    Probably worth investing in some more pads and test fit them to see if it cures the noise problem. You'll have spares then and can at least rule out one possible cause.🤔
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited December 2020
    Just had a quick google but info is pointing towards DOT 4 brake fluid and with EBS kits options having both available probably best to go with their 4.0 option.

    I don't use DOT fluid brakes or ever dealt with them so far so not sure on the differences or if they need to be an exact type match without a google search tbh.🤓
  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19
    Thanks so much for all the advice .. nipped over the road and they having a quick look to see whats going on .
    That i dpne well to get as far as i did with the hayes stroker ryder brakes as they are a pig to work with 😂
    They suggested a possible upgrade to shimano £50 a side free fitting as its christmas and got wifes bike from them earlier in the year . But will see what happens with the hayes . Its a nice bike esp for the age and next year id like to upgrade to possibly big trail 600 dont want to spend too much on this one :)

    Thanks again for the tips and advice .

  • 😎👍 No worries. Suppose some brakes are slightly harder to work on than others. Shimano brakes are pretty good and easy to get parts, bleed, maintain, etc.

    Fine line on spending to keep going or saving the cash for something new but nothing can substitute that new bike day feeling! 🚴‍♂️😛

    Hope it works out ok, Merry Christmas! 🎅👍
  • daveUK
    daveUK Posts: 19

    😎👍 No worries. Suppose some brakes are slightly harder to work on than others. Shimano brakes are pretty good and easy to get parts, bleed, maintain, etc.

    Fine line on spending to keep going or saving the cash for something new but nothing can substitute that new bike day feeling! 🚴‍♂️😛

    Hope it works out ok, Merry Christmas! 🎅👍

    Thank you and thanks again for the advice :)

    Merry christmas to you too :) 🎅