Hello and newbie questions
During lockdown I started with a 14 mile ride and from thereon I was hooked. As of today, I've completed 2002 miles and I've loved every mile of it. I covered the mileage across three bikes - the cheap Chinese made is what got me started. I then purchased on an impulse an old Bianchi Reparto Corse - I love all things Italian and the Celeste was very tempting - but that's a whole another story. The third bike was a shoddy looking Trek OCLV 5000 and like all my other bikes I did not have a clue about what to look for other than the fact that by the time I acquired it, I knew I had to get the right size at least - the Bianchi is just a tad large but I'm making it work. I've now covered a few hundred miles on the Trek and after a clean up I'm quite happy with the result.
This all brings me to my current state of affairs. After having read the forum, I've worked out that I'd like to keep the 9 speed setup on the Trek. It's equipped with Dura Ace 7700 throughout, except the cassette and the chain that I got changed at the recommendation of the LBS. I contemplated a 10 speed upgrade but not sure if I can justify that given the cost of the bike against the cost of acquiring the components. I've therefore decided to keep the 7700 groupset as it's working very well, and looks wonderful, but I know I need to update the Chainring (53/39) soon, and my question is related to that. a) Do I need to change the bottom-bracket if I get a non-Dura Ace Chainring or is changing the BB only applicable on changing the crankset? b) If changing chainrings only, can I use any chainring, even if of a different size or does that only work for the outer chainring as I see it comes off by undoing 5 bolts.
My aim is to go beyond 2k miles next year and want to setup the bike to handle that mileage. I have ordered some books on bike maintenance so will try to do most the work myself and looking forward to road cycling in 2021.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge/experience on the forum and I hope my questions are not too silly.
Thanks,
Abs
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As long as the new chainset is the same type of Shimano number ( HollowTech II in your case ) they will work with the bottom bracket you have. You can mix and match chainrings, but be careful, you have to keep the spacing for the ‘speed’ you have set up ( usually 9, 10 or 11 speed ) due to the chain width, and there are limits to how much of a jump in tooth number and drive train capacity you can get away with, with a given cage length on the RD. At the moment you have what’s called a ‘standard’ chainset it’s more common to find modern bikes for the mass market fitted with ‘faux pro’ ( 52-36 typically) or compact chain sets ( 50-34 ) and 11-( up to 32 ) tooth cassettes, with medium or short cage derailleurs, without having to resort to long cage derailleurs or extenders. It can be a bit of a minefield, but once you’ve tried a few different bits out, and ridden a few miles, it becomes a bit less daunting.0
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Thank you for the reply. I'll read more into Hollowtech II to get a better idea of it all.0
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Fantastic link! The engineering behind these 'simple' machines is fascinating. Thank you for sharing! I don't have a good mind for remembering technical specs. of componentry, but I'm loving learning about the detail and the thought that goes into producing what seem very inconsequential parts - to the novice - of these fabulous machines.dj58 said:0 -
That's mainly wrong or irrelevant from Brudon (unsurprisingly).
Your bottom bracket is octolink not hollowtech. The great thing about octolink is that they are all internal sealed cartridge isbearings so can do 10,000s of miles in all weather before being replaced
To replace chainrings just buy some more. You don't need to stick with Dura ace you can use ultegra or 105 instead (one and 2 levels down respectively)
You can also get aftermarket ones from somewhere like Spa Cycles.
Key thing to note is your BCD (bolt circle diameter). If you are running 39/53 then it's will be 130 so make sure your new ones match the BCD size. The exact number of teeth isn't critical but I'm not sure you can get smaller ones with 130 BCD. I *think* you want to keep a difference between big ring and small ring of around 15/16 (53-39 = 14).
Exactly as you say you can replace one at a time by undoing the bolts.
Just make sure you mount then outside out / inside in as it helps with shifting (I think, I sold my 9 speed bike a few years ago).0 -
Exactly as SB has said - unfortunately Brandon is talking rubbish.
Don’t worry about chainrings being 9,10 or 11 speed - they all work fine, it’s only when it comes to cassettes that the differences matter.
Sometimes it’s cheaper buying a whole new chain set than individual rings, so so long as you buy a chain set with the right bcd you can just swap ‘rings across - the Octalink stuff is excellent and bombproof but as it’s Old it’s tricky getting new parts for It.
Just make sure that the chain rings bolt across fine - have a look on the bolt holes - and All will be well.
Only thing to watch for his the little sticky out nub on the outer chainring goes behind the crank arm to stop the chain getting stuck down there should it come off.
Hth.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Got to admire your confidence, you genuinely believe everything you know is 100% true.brundonbianchi said:As long as the new chainset is the same type of Shimano number ( HollowTech II in your case ) they will work with the bottom bracket you have. You can mix and match chainrings, but be careful, you have to keep the spacing for the ‘speed’ you have set up ( usually 9, 10 or 11 speed ) due to the chain width, and there are limits to how much of a jump in tooth number and drive train capacity you can get away with, with a given cage length on the RD. At the moment you have what’s called a ‘standard’ chainset it’s more common to find modern bikes for the mass market fitted with ‘faux pro’ ( 52-36 typically) or compact chain sets ( 50-34 ) and 11-( up to 32 ) tooth cassettes, with medium or short cage derailleurs, without having to resort to long cage derailleurs or extenders. It can be a bit of a minefield, but once you’ve tried a few different bits out, and ridden a few miles, it becomes a bit less daunting.
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What's sad is that he posted that bullshine to a dude who is new to cycling and wanted some basic info.
#wtafwouldyoudothat?.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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I made a mistake with the BB standard, but all else is fine.50x11 said:
Got to admire your confidence, you genuinely believe everything you know is 100% true.brundonbianchi said:As long as the new chainset is the same type of Shimano number ( HollowTech II in your case ) they will work with the bottom bracket you have. You can mix and match chainrings, but be careful, you have to keep the spacing for the ‘speed’ you have set up ( usually 9, 10 or 11 speed ) due to the chain width, and there are limits to how much of a jump in tooth number and drive train capacity you can get away with, with a given cage length on the RD. At the moment you have what’s called a ‘standard’ chainset it’s more common to find modern bikes for the mass market fitted with ‘faux pro’ ( 52-36 typically) or compact chain sets ( 50-34 ) and 11-( up to 32 ) tooth cassettes, with medium or short cage derailleurs, without having to resort to long cage derailleurs or extenders. It can be a bit of a minefield, but once you’ve tried a few different bits out, and ridden a few miles, it becomes a bit less daunting.
If I dropped dead tomorrow, and the little circle jerkers that persists on this site lived until they were 10000 years old, I would still know more about all of this tomorrow than you lot would in 10000 years time.0 -
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You have to be planed about your routes in advance so that you’re not caught out on busier roads than you anticipate, or at risky junctions. Look for cycle networks that take you away from main routes used by motorists .
You have to be ensure that you’re wearing high-visibility clothing all year round and that you learn as much as you can about riding safely before riding into a situation beyond your comfort zone. If in doubt, get off the bike and use pedestrian crossings.
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Maybe you shouldn’t bother, it can be dangerous out in the real world.treas.infomart said:You have to be planed about your routes in advance so that you’re not caught out on busier roads than you anticipate, or at risky junctions. Look for cycle networks that take you away from main routes used by motorists .
You have to be ensure that you’re wearing high-visibility clothing all year round and that you learn as much as you can about riding safely before riding into a situation beyond your comfort zone. If in doubt, get off the bike and use pedestrian crossings.0
