Setting up tubeless tires - am I doing it right?

I've just bought a new road bike with tubeless ready rims, but I want to replace the tires they've come with (Vredestein Fortezza) for GP5000s. The bike has arrived whilst I'm away so hasn't been ridden at all, ever.

Now I am hopeless with anything mechanical (ok replacing a tire not really mechanical) or vaguely maintenance-y to a level that is borderline comical but even I resent paying someone to put on a pair of tires for me, which I can just about manage on a clincher (albeit still getting pinch flats 25% of the time...)

However having read a bit about how 'tricky' tubeless tires are to set up I'm a bit nervous about how to go about it and would be very grateful if someone could cast their eye over this and see if it makes sense-

What I have:

- Tire levers
- New tires
- Track pump (normal without air reservoir)
- CO2 cartridges
- Sealant

This is my proposed method:

1. Deflate and remove existing tires.

2. Wipe clean inside of tires to remove 'old' sealant.

3. Clean bed of the tire of any sealant, check rim tape in place.

4. Get out new tires. Get them over the rim.

5. Inflate the new tires - I don't know whether I'll just be able to pump them up like I would a clincher? From what I've read I might have to give them a blast to seat them, which (not having a big pump), I propose to do with CO2 cartridges? Would that work?

6. Remove the valve core - I can't picture doing this without the tire deflating and become unseated but apparently it won't (become unseated at least)?

7. Pour the sealant in through the valve core, and spin wheel to ensure even coverage. Put valve core back in.

8. Use track pump to inflate to desire PSI

Is that right? Sorry if I'm being dense I literally want someone to pat me on the head and say 'yes well done you're very clever' or 'no idiot you've forgotten to do X'

Thanks

Comments

  • You say the bike has tubeless ready wheels, but is it definitely set up tubeless? Last two bikes I've bought have been supplied with tubes in, even though everything (wheels and tyres) are tubeless. If that's the case then you will need some tubeless valves to go with the new tyres.

    If they are already tubeless and have the valves inserted then your plan looks good to me. Step 5 might be painful, CO2 cartridges will do the job but seating any tubeless tyre can take multiple attempts depending on the tyre/wheel combo. Step 6 you are correct, they tyre will deflate but should stay seated so once you've added sealant it will just pump up with the track up
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    Looks ok to me. Have a look at the tubeless how to guide on the Cycle Clinic website and consider buying some VAR tyre levers which make getting tubeless beads onto the rim a whole lot easier.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    why replace the Vredestein i've run those very same tyres and they were ace super grippy but did wear pretty quickly, why not ride them until they're done then change?
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  • Thanks for feedback, much appreciated - some individual responses:
    wobblebob said:

    You say the bike has tubeless ready wheels, but is it definitely set up tubeless? Last two bikes I've bought have been supplied with tubes in, even though everything (wheels and tyres) are tubeless. If that's the case then you will need some tubeless valves to go with the new tyres.

    If they are already tubeless and have the valves inserted then your plan looks good to me. Step 5 might be painful, CO2 cartridges will do the job but seating any tubeless tyre can take multiple attempts depending on the tyre/wheel combo. Step 6 you are correct, they tyre will deflate but should stay seated so once you've added sealant it will just pump up with the track up

    To be honest I'm not sure they are tubeless ready, it's a wheelset (Fulcrum Airbeat Carbon 40mm) that I haven't been able to find much out about online. Presumably the way to tell the difference (beyond whether they have an inner tube in) is whether they have the right valve and from the rim profile?
    itboffin said:

    why replace the Vredestein i've run those very same tyres and they were ace super grippy but did wear pretty quickly, why not ride them until they're done then change?

    Good question that I don't have a particularly scientific answer for - I've just always used GP5000s (or 4000s) and I also found the table at the bottom of this article which suggest rolling resistance wasn't great for the Vredesteins:

    https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-tests/choosing-the-best-road-bike-tyres-20156
    shortfall said:

    Looks ok to me. Have a look at the tubeless how to guide on the Cycle Clinic website and consider buying some VAR tyre levers which make getting tubeless beads onto the rim a whole lot easier.

    Thank you, will take a look
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    hmmm you may need more rim tape, gorrilla tape works well too.

    If the tyre is baggy on the rim and you cant inflate it to the point the tyre "cracks" into place then consider another layer of rim tape.

    If you cannot for love or money get the thing on then really check youve moved the bead into the middle of the wheel.

    You may need a bit more power, i.e. a longer lever try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Tools-681090-Heavy-Lever/dp/B077Y51W48/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_1/259-1848533-7558068?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B077Y51W48&pd_rd_r=e7fc496b-e033-4ac3-aaa5-cef8622c9f26&pd_rd_w=RKs4o&pd_rd_wg=3IJS7&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=H1T6NNB7RW50HNMBXD0D&psc=1&refRID=H1T6NNB7RW50HNMBXD0D

    or buy a pedros lever, the same thing but has a cycling badgee and is three times the price
  • davidof
    davidof Posts: 3,095
    ...
    9. find you never get the things to stay inflated and clean up the mess and bung an inner tube in

    :-)
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  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    davidof said:

    ...
    9. find you never get the things to stay inflated and clean up the mess and bung an inner tube in

    :-)

    HHAHAHA this or worse, find you have a problem whilst out, spend an hour in the cold and rain whilst your mates dissapear one by one and call the mrs. Fit an inner tube.
  • Just to add, remember that sealant dries out so top up your tires with new sealant every 5 or 6 months (unless you have worn them out by then!).
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    oxoman said:

    Sealant may dry out, but it doesn't make your tyres go flat. As to flats when running tubeless it takes me less than 2 minutes to plug it and re-inflate. To many naysayers when in comes to running tubeless. Only people who have problems are those that don't understand tubeless or those running non tubeless ghetto style.

    and those who have slices in the tyre wall too large to seal with plugs. or those who cant get them off at the road side etc etc. Im absolutely convinced that the experience you get with tubeless is affected by the area you ride in.