Choosing the right wheel bearings?

Newbie to Road bikes.
For my 2018 Specialized Roubaix Sport disc bike I bought some used 2019 Roval CL50 wheels and now want to get some new and better bearings as well as do a full hub service.
So without taking the hubs apart and looking at the existing bearings, how can I find out the right size. Looking at the CeramicSpeed site and looking at the Roval-5 upgrade kit they talk about 61802 bearings which I have searched on google and they are shown as 15x24x5mm. So does this mean I can go to bearing web sites and look for bearings of that size that show they are for road bikes and simply buy those? for example ENDURO CH6802LLB Ceramic Hybrid Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Bearing 15x24x5mm.
The other question is how many do I buy? I've seen bearing packs of 6 bearings, where I just thought there were 2 bearings in each front and back wheels? and are the front and rear wheel bearings in my CL50 wheels the same, there is talk about DT Swiss 350 internals being used in the rear hub of the. Just very confused???

Comments

  • topsey_turvey
    topsey_turvey Posts: 420
    edited November 2020
    For a start you don't need ceramic bearings. Unless you think you can travel at motorway speeds.

    Yes. Bearings of that size will do. Enduro bearings are about the industry standard.
    Frank Yates
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Two observations. Firstly the front wheel hub will have smaller bearings than the rear so you should bear that in mind. After a bit of searching I have found reference to the front bearings being 2x6802. Something like this would be good for the front hub

    https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20000033/ENDURO-68022RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-15x24x5mm/product_info.html

    As you indicate, it seems the rear hub is based on a DT Swiss 350 hub and for that you would need 2x6902 bearings. Something like this

    https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20000036/ENDURO-69022RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-15x28x7mm/product_info.html

    The likelihood is that the rear hub will have a ratchet system rather than a standard pawl type freehub. That may pose a bit of a problem as you will need to remove the ratchet to access the bearings. Have a look at this video on servicing a DT Swiss rear hub

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wde2goI3Cs

    You can see that he uses a special ratchet removal tool. These are available online if you need to get one.
  • masjer
    masjer Posts: 2,613
    If the bearings are still operating smoothly, just leave them be. If they are rough/worn and need replacing just order by the ref number/size. If the bearings have no seal they'll just have the ref number eg 61802. If they are sealed bearings (rubber seals) they'll have the number plus 2RS eg 61802 2RS or sometimes LLB. Don't bother with metal shielded bearings they have the code ZZ. Sometimes hub bearings use C3 bearings, these have a larger clearance between the balls and races so spin with (very slightly) less drag -good for high speed motors not so important on bike hubs.
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    if its a 350 hub inside, youll need two bearings for the freehub body too so four in total, so the price goes up. Youll also need the ratchet tool, buy cheap and hope for the best or buy the ridiculously expensive real one.

    youll need a vice or breaker bar as well.

    you can use the existing seal if it doesnt get damaged

    You can use the freehub body as a seal driver

    Remember to replace the spacer in the freehub body

    youll need a hammer and a drift (or bearing extractor or a slide hammer etc )to get the bearings out but be careful not to damage anything. This isnt a car, not even a motorbike, so the opportunity to screw the hub bearing surfaces or body is high if you twat the retaining lip by mistake. The DT swiss freehub bodies are listed as not user repairable but that really isnt the case.

    You will also need a press and the appropriate sized drifts. I cant remember exactly off the top of my head but at least one drift will need to be deep enough to go over the axle.

    You can get all the spares you need for DTswiss and the tools from TF tuned.

    Like the previous poster said above, if it aint broke, dont fix it, unless of course you have lots of cash and fancy the challenge or learning how it works. (both of which are really good reasons to do it.)