9s Freehub modification to fit 11s cassette, DIYer help needed.

hi.
i own a lovely SCOTT Aspect 940 2017.
i recently ordered an SLX M7000 groupset, but the cassette (CS-M7000-11) is too big for my Freehub (TX505), the cassette lock ring locks after only one and a half turns.
i googled for hours and did not find a free hub that looks like mine and that is long enough for 11s cassette.
my option are this:
1) buying a 11s wheel (which is not cost effective for me)
2) replacing the hub on the wheel that will cost probably like a wheel (hub + rebuilding)
3) get the rear cassette machined in the rear to fit better (remove 1.5mm) but i am afraid that it will be too close to the spokes.
is there any other option that i am missing?
i have been thinking to get another 11s freehub body, disassemble it and try to fit only the external body to my freehub (is it possible?)
would like to get your opinions.
best regards!!!
( added some pics)




Comments

  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,708
    You may be doing something wrong. MTB 11 speed cassettes fit onto a '9 speed' cassette body. The 11th cog, which doesn't fit entirely over the spline, can sometimes get misaligned and therefore stick out further, for example.
  • I checked 3 times. You can see the gap.

    You may be doing something wrong. MTB 11 speed cassettes fit onto a '9 speed' cassette body. The 11th cog, which doesn't fit entirely over the spline, can sometimes get misaligned and therefore stick out further, for example.

  • thistle_
    thistle_ Posts: 7,217
    edited November 2020
    Or maybe all of that is irrelevant if 11 speed cassettes fit on 9 speed hubs (doh)
  • Or maybe all of that is irrelevant if 11 speed cassettes fit on 9 speed hubs (doh)

    As you can see its not. My freehub is 34.9mm but i need extra 1.5-1.8mm

  • mully79
    mully79 Posts: 904
    ive just been in the garage to search for my old 9 speed wheel but i must have chucked it. i do have a 10 speed slx cassette and that measures approx 37.5mm across the splines on the 10 sprockets so that wouldnt fit on your freehub either.

    i dont know but maybe being the entry level freehub it is more of a crossover between road and mtb hence the funky size.
  • mully79
    mully79 Posts: 904
    while you think of a plan, drop off the smallest sprocket and set it up as a 10 speed.
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited November 2020
    You don't need a wider freehub. 1 1/2 turns of the lockring is an ample amount of thread engagement to hold the cassette securely.

    A 1.8mm wider freehub exists, I have one on my Pro 4 hub, it's a Road width standard (36.75mm) but in order to fit my 11 speed mtb cassette properly it needs a 1.85mm spacer otherwise my lockring bottoms out with the cassette still loose.

    That picture of the gap is the same as mine and I only get around 1 1/2 spins before the lockring starts to tighten onto serrated pattern on the smallest cog.

    Pretty sure your lockring didn't engage any deeper on the freehub thread with the original 9 speed cassette, if it did the difference is negligible and nothing to worry about.
  • You don't need a wider freehub. 1 1/2 turns of the lockring is an ample amount of thread engagement to hold the cassette securely.

    A 1.8mm wider freehub exists, I have one on my Pro 4 hub, it's a Road width standard (36.75mm) but in order to fit my 11 speed mtb cassette properly it needs a 1.85mm spacer otherwise my lockring bottoms out with the cassette still loose.

    That picture of the gap is the same as mine and I only get around 1 1/2 spins before the lockring starts to tighten onto serrated pattern on the smallest cog.

    Pretty sure your lockring didn't engage any deeper on the freehub thread with the original 9 speed cassette, if it did the difference is negligible and nothing to worry about.

    Thanks for the info.
    I will double check again tommorow.
    Any way with the 9s cassette it has at least 5 turns by hand and another half turn with the wrench.
    The 11s make one turn by hand and a half with the wrench.
    Dont you think that removing even 0.5mm from the rear of the cassette or from the end of the freehub will be a good idea? My only concern is that the cassette will be to close to the spokes..
  • 11 speed mtb cassette from shimano fit onto an 9 speed era freehuub. The reason mtb freehub to this day are the 8/9/10 speed standard unless the manufacturer uses the road 11 speed standard.
    www.thecycleclinic.co.uk
  • reaperactual
    reaperactual Posts: 1,185
    edited November 2020

    You don't need a wider freehub. 1 1/2 turns of the lockring is an ample amount of thread engagement to hold the cassette securely.

    A 1.8mm wider freehub exists, I have one on my Pro 4 hub, it's a Road width standard (36.75mm) but in order to fit my 11 speed mtb cassette properly it needs a 1.85mm spacer otherwise my lockring bottoms out with the cassette still loose.

    That picture of the gap is the same as mine and I only get around 1 1/2 spins before the lockring starts to tighten onto serrated pattern on the smallest cog.

    Pretty sure your lockring didn't engage any deeper on the freehub thread with the original 9 speed cassette, if it did the difference is negligible and nothing to worry about.

    Thanks for the info.
    I will double check again tommorow.
    Any way with the 9s cassette it has at least 5 turns by hand and another half turn with the wrench.
    The 11s make one turn by hand and a half with the wrench.
    Dont you think that removing even 0.5mm from the rear of the cassette or from the end of the freehub will be a good idea? My only concern is that the cassette will be to close to the spokes..
    Your 11 speed mtb cassette is already closer to the spokes as the first cog is attached to the back of the spider/carrier.

    On your 11 speed the second gear sits in the same position as the first gear compared to the original 9 speed cassette, along with narrower cog spacing it's how an 11 speed MTB cassette still fits within the exact same width standard MTB freehub you have.

    For the reasons above I can't explain why the lockring doesn't engage the thread as much as the previous 9 speed one unless it's narrower or small cog isn't seated properly as whyamihere said? Looking closely at your last pic only the first couple of threads look clean and used so far anyway?

    Wouldn't recommend grinding anything, maybe try using the original lockring instead?
  • I bet the op has not tightened the lockring. Once done up to spec i am sure it will have screwed far enough
    www.thecycleclinic.co.uk