Wheelset Recommendations Under £500
mark8191
Posts: 78
Looking to upgrade my wheelset on a budget of under £500.
My current wheel set are stock Giant PR2's, looking for something lighter and durable enough for endurance/ distance rides. Been looking at DT Swiss Spline 1800 but I'm not too clued up on wheels so advice would be much appreciated
My current wheel set are stock Giant PR2's, looking for something lighter and durable enough for endurance/ distance rides. Been looking at DT Swiss Spline 1800 but I'm not too clued up on wheels so advice would be much appreciated
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So you want light, cheap and strong...
I think the rule was: pick two. Realistically, you are looking at something with better hubs (my wife has the PR2, the pawls engaging delay is shocking), overall a bit more lively (they really feel dead, although that might be due to the Gavia tyres), but not a lot lighter... maybe 200 grams, hardly noticeable.left the forum March 20230 -
Cero Ar30 as long as you want rim brake.0
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https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets
I'd take a look at these from a wheelbuilder with a fantastic reputation for customer service and reliability. Plenty of people on this forum will vouch for his wheels, including me. Other handbuilts are available. I'd personally stay away from factory wheels but if you want to go down that route for circa £300 Campagnolo Zondas have a very good rep (I've had a set of those too).1 -
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I've had a pair of Borg 22 Discs (with the Miche hubs) for just over 2 months and thus far very impressed. Everything I've tried thus far have had very poor freehub/bearing durability and these are currently holding up well (just hope they stay that way). These were just over £400 so we'll within your budget.0
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Do you need disc or rim brakes? I replaced the PR2 disc wheels on Mrs MdL’s bike with a set of used Giant SLR1 carbon wheels, you should be able to find a good pair of wheels for less than £500.
Alternatively DT Swiss P1800 are a very good aluminium alternative, I have a pair with the black stealth decals taken off a new Cervelo that have only been used for three rides that I might be willing to sell you are interested . . . PM me.Got a place in the Pyrenees.
Do bike and ski stuff.0 -
All else equal durability is probably inversely proportional to weight, but I'm sure the spec and materials impact ride feel more than a few hundred grams (spoke number and lacing, rim stiffness, etc).
I'd go hand built personally. I also have a set of Malcolm's wheels and I would recommend them, but other builders offer a greater choice of rims and hubs. Any good quality hub, Sapim or DT Swiss spokes, and a good quality rim is going to be as good as anything mass produced with better parts availability if you break anything or need a service. You can also customise the spec if you particularly want to trade durability for weight or vise versa.
I don't personally see the point of £500 ish mass produced aluminium clinchers. There's nothing special enough about them to justify the price and they're harder or impossible to get spares or replacement parts for if needed.
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DCR Wheels in Sussex are excellent, I have A force AL33 rims on DCR hubs - just over the £500 mark and they are superb. 24 2:1 rear and 20 front. I'm running them tubeless and couldn't be happier.0
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I also have some DCR wheels which I'm very happy with. I went for his own brand disc brake hubs and rims with 28 CX Ray spokes front and rear which set me back around £400.
They're very robust but still weigh less than 1,600 grams, I'm very happy with them.
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I build myself a pair of Kinlin XR 22 rims on Bitex/Novatec hubs (the joy of Covid, impossible to find a pair of matching Bitex) with laser spokes and gold alloy nipples... all in, I spent 250 pounds... they are probably not very durable or robust, but I don't care, because they are race only. I am surprised by how stiff they are, for a set that weighs 1300 grams.
left the forum March 20232 -
N00b question are hand built a heavier/ slower performing than equivalently priced factory wheels?
Assuming you need to pay someone to do it0 -
No...rick_chasey said:N00b question are hand built a heavier/ slower performing than equivalently priced factory wheels?
Assuming you need to pay someone to do it
You can build lighter than factory wheels or you can build heavier than factory wheels... depends what you are trying to achieve. As above, 1300 grams for a pair of clinchers that would set you back just over 300 pounds if you have to pay for the build is a lot cheaper than anything you can buy at that weight.
The problem I often encountered was people wanting something light and durable, when in fact they only wanted something that looked good.
It all became very evident when carbon rims became fashionable... it was a case of having the deep rims, regardless of the use...
For those users who tend to lie to themselves about their cycling ambitions, the bespoke route can be frustrating (especially from the point of view of the builder)... then it's probably better to buy something that you can see as a finished product and it can get the thumbs up from peersleft the forum March 20230