Modern equivalent for 1980s Dawes Galaxy with 531ST Reynolds frame?

I've had my Dawes Galaxy since the 1980s, it's been through a lot and I'd be loathed to wreck it by riding it through winters and over rough stuff (the occasional bridleway) now as it's just working fine for occasional sunny rides.

I'd really like to know if there's a modern day equivalent with a similar hand-built frame, the kind with lugs, can't stand those with the smooth slopy shoulders on a bike like this (I have a cross bike, looks fine on that, just not on this classic touring style frame), if it's a Reynolds frame in the same style so much the better, likewise if it can be a Dawes Galaxy with suitably updated gearing for steep hills and fast road cruising, perfect! Would preferably be a 2x11 though, don't like having a granny gear on the crank.

Budget around £2k. Willing to build my own from frame upwards if necessary.

Comments

  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    edited August 2020
    How about a Mercian Audax frame. Handbuilt in Derby. Basic 631 tubing costs £1125 but you can spec up to 853 for £1365

    https://www.merciancycles.co.uk/frames/audax-special/

    With some judicious bargain hunting you could bring the build in around your £2K budget.

    They do offer other frame options so just have a browse on their website.
  • I have heard of 853, where on a scale would you say that sits compared to 531ST of it's time? I like the weight of my steel fame, gives the bike plenty of momentum for small hills and rises, road bumps, etc.

    I should add that I'm not adverse to 2nd-hand buying if it's in almost as-new condition (don't want to inherit any frame scrapes or rust, I'll add those myself!)
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    The link below gives you a comparison of the properties of various steels used in frame manufacture.

    https://gravelcycling.wordpress.com/2016/07/07/steel-the-different-types-of-steel-in-bike-frames/

    Main difference between 853 and 531 appears to be tensile strength and the ability to draw thinner walled tubes to achieve reduced weight while retaining strength/stiffness
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,318
    Don't want to put a spanner in the works, but the idea that one particular type of tubing has some magic properties over the rest is flawed. Butted tubings are much of a muchness and it's down to the frame geometry.
    Weight difference between frames of different tubings are insignificant too, boils down to + or - 100 grams... perceived differences in riding are 100% placebo...

    As for the weight of the frame giving you momentum up small bumps, again, it's all placebo, there is no way a few hundred grams difference over a lighter material, being that carbon or alloy would make any meaningful difference in momentum...

    Basically you are wrong all the way and if you get rid of those false notions, you have a much wider choice of frames out there.
    left the forum March 2023
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,836
    Spa cycles are good for touring bikes
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028

    I have heard of 853, where on a scale would you say that sits compared to 531ST of it's time? I like the weight of my steel fame, gives the bike plenty of momentum for small hills and rises, road bumps, etc.

    I should add that I'm not adverse to 2nd-hand buying if it's in almost as-new condition (don't want to inherit any frame scrapes or rust, I'll add those myself!)

    As Ugo says above, the tubing itself may technically offer different properties, but in reality, there is unlikely to be any noticeable, tangible difference in performance, and perhaps only a marginal difference in frame weight - which becomes largely irrelevant once the frame is built up.