Bite point adjust?
reaperactual
Posts: 1,185
I have Shimano slx M7000's, rt66 203mm front and rt66 180mm rear rotors which are new, as usual not dead true but not enough to be straightened, sintered, non finned pads around half way worn.
Reach adjust is comfortable for my hands where they are currently and bite point is around 50% lever travel, not contacting my knuckles but close.
Trying to achieve bite point with less lever travel.
Options:-
1) Over filling? Advance pistons and top up with fluid to put pads closer to rotor?
2) 'Adapt' levers to include bite point adjust? Does this method change the servo wave mechanism or levers in some way or again does this put pads closer to rotor?
Because my pads are half worn does this make a difference? My understanding is pistons self advance as pads wear down, fluid from the reservoir travels into the brake system to keep a constant amount of fluid so shouldn't change the bite point, hence why the pistons need to be recessed back into the bores when replacing with new pads, is this correct?
Is the only method for less lever travel achieved by reducing pad to rotor distance and would I just have to potentially put up with irritating rotor rub and that tinging sound for better bite point? Are there any other options?
Any opinions, thoughts and feedback is appreciated.
Reach adjust is comfortable for my hands where they are currently and bite point is around 50% lever travel, not contacting my knuckles but close.
Trying to achieve bite point with less lever travel.
Options:-
1) Over filling? Advance pistons and top up with fluid to put pads closer to rotor?
2) 'Adapt' levers to include bite point adjust? Does this method change the servo wave mechanism or levers in some way or again does this put pads closer to rotor?
Because my pads are half worn does this make a difference? My understanding is pistons self advance as pads wear down, fluid from the reservoir travels into the brake system to keep a constant amount of fluid so shouldn't change the bite point, hence why the pistons need to be recessed back into the bores when replacing with new pads, is this correct?
Is the only method for less lever travel achieved by reducing pad to rotor distance and would I just have to potentially put up with irritating rotor rub and that tinging sound for better bite point? Are there any other options?
Any opinions, thoughts and feedback is appreciated.
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Comments
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Any method to do this other than buying a lever with bite point adjustment is going to be a pain down the line. For example, if you overfill now, you'll have to drain some fluid when you get new pads because otherwise you won't be able to push the pistons back in far enough...1
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Not keen on the overfill method either for the same reasons you stated so I agree and want to keep pad clearance where it is if it's possible.
So the bite point adjust on levers doesn't change pad position?
I'm looking into bite point adjust, not planning to replace levers, planning to adapt my slx's to enable them to use this feature but not if it is just another way of bringing pads closer to rotor which is defeating my aim.
Thank you for your input whyamihere.👍
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I had Shimano XT brakes with bite point adjustment and I could never make it do anything detectable. I wrote about this on another forum and the consensus was that it was a waste of time (at least on XT brakes). An ex race team mechanic, said that it does work if you use it at first set up, but his explanation talked us all into silence.
The message I took from this was - don't go changing your brakes just to get a bite point adjustment, you might not be happy with what you get. I've had all sorts of Shimano and Sram brakes and I have never felt the need to have bite point adjustment. But of course, that doesn't mean that you shouldn't feel the need!
For those with Sram Guide or Code R brakes, the "deslackinator" may be right up your street. https://www.matter-replicator.com/product/sram-brake-deslackinators/0 -
Will be looking into it more, if only for something to Google!
Only watched one YouTube clip on bite point adjust so far and might not bother in the end and accept defeat on the subject as my brakes are working well and happy with them.
May do it anyway, obviously would like to see some results but will learn more about brakes along the way at the very least.
Thank you for your input Steve.👍
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