HELP! 2013 Rockhopper comp headtube bottom removable? changing forks

joe_m_24
joe_m_24 Posts: 5
edited May 2020 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all, I’ve recently purchased a rockhopper comp 2013 model. At first glance it looked to have a tapered head tube so I thought I’d replace the existing forks with something abit more durable. Having taken out the form I saw it has a 1 1/8 steerer going through with an adapter. Given that the actual head tube is tapered I thought I would just be able to remove the original fork and bearing and then install my 1 1/5th forks however it looks as though the bottom part of the head tube is fixed or stuck in and the 1 1/5 won’t fit. The head tube is definitely tapered and so seems strange they would build it and then limit it to a 1 1/8th steerer. I’ve also googled the frame and it says on bike radar it’s capable changing to a 1 1/5 but from what I’m seeing it looks fixed in the bottom. The spec on the website says it is a integrated tapered headtube. Has anyone came across the same issue and if so how did you overcome it? The lbs is saying 2 weeks before they can even look at it and I can’t find anything solid on the internet. I’ve uploaded some photos of it too for reference and the link below. Thanks





https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/specialized-rockhopper-comp-review/

Comments

  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    edited May 2020
    1 1/5th steerer? Are you sure?
    Modern tapered steerers are 1 ½" to 1 ⅛" .
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    He must mean 1.5"
  • joe_m_24
    joe_m_24 Posts: 5
    My bad, yes I mean 1.5 or 1 1/2
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    from the picture (and thats no sure thing) it looks like it might be a reducer in there. Knock it out
  • joe_m_24
    joe_m_24 Posts: 5
    It’s metal I’ve hit it a few times with a flat head screw driver and mallet but it won’t budge. If it is meant to come out it’s super tight, which makes me think it’s stuck in
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    One of the things I learned when I was an engineering apprentice was the benefit of hitting something with a bigger hammer than you think you'd need!

    It is easier and far more controlled to nudge something with a 3lbs lump hammer than it is to use a 1lb hammer and have to hit it three times as hard. It does less damage too! (Especially if you keep missing).

    Many times I have solved problems by using a BIG hammer slowly and popped the item right out. Use as big a drift as will fit. This will keep the force being applied as even as possible and reduce the chances of the bearing jamming in the frame.
  • joe_m_24
    joe_m_24 Posts: 5
    Thanks mate! That worked 😂😅👍
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    I'm so pleased to hear that, thanks for the feedback. :)