TRP Spyres - fixable issues? Or are they just rubbish?

mrfpb

I have a Boardman ADV with TRP SPyre brakes, The pads wore out after 300 miles (front and back) and the front in particular are still gripping poorly. It's only because I switched to riding my CdF during lockdown that I now realise how poor the grip is front and back on the ADV, despite doing slower speeds, as I mainly use it off road.

Is this just about the pads, or are the brakes just poorer. The CdF has Hayes type brakes with one moving pad, so in theory should be inferior to the twin pull Spyres, but they are way better and pads tend to last thousands rather than hundreds of miles.

Also I think I've rounded the tiny hex head screws for adjusting the pads. Is there some improvement I can make, or should I be looking for new brake callipers?

reaperactual

Spyres, I would say are the best cable operated brakes on the market for the reasons you stated that both pads advance as opposed to a static pad of lesser models. Don't think pads themselves make much difference.

Going from cable operated brakes to hydraulics, even the most basic models have a far superior design and better in so many ways. No more constant manual pad advancement as they wear makes for a more fit and forget brake system.

General consensus would be to recommend Shimano M6000 Deore hydraulic brakes. Best bang for your buck, servo wave lever action and higher tier versions don't offer much more performance gains on these brakes. I fully agree with this fact.

My opinion would be upgrade to M6000's without a doubt and you would be so pleased with the difference they make in power, feel and not having to adjust for pad wear.

At the very least any hydro's will be a step up from any cable operated brakes I would say.

mrfpb

I've often heard they're the best, so why are my Hayes cable brakes better at stopping a bike?

Moving to hydros would mean a whole new groupset, which I'm not currently contemplating. I am keeping an eye on the GRX system, just to see if there are any issues and may go for a 2x10 set up at the end of the year (when my current cycle to work scheme ends).

So I was interested in a fix for the Spyres or a stopgap option. Possibly a cable actuated hydro. I suppose I could get some more Hayes brakes, as they seem to do the job, and then I wouldn't need different pads for the two bikes.

mrb123

My Spyres have been ok - not as good as decent rim brakes in the dry or hydraulic discs in any conditions but perfectly useable.

Pad life has been much longer for me than you've experienced. Perhaps try some new ones - I got my last lot from Disco Brakes. They have various compounds to choose from depending upon your requirements.

Compressionless cables can help a bit - reduces the sponginess in the lever pull.

Only other advice is to set the pads as close as you can so basically screw the screws in until the pads touch and then back them off just enough that they no longer do.

reaperactual

Hayes could be better for something as simple as just fitted well and centred on rotor. Slightly out but not enough to notice makes a difference or maybe a more pronounced cam action will give better power?

Can't comment on a fix for your Spyres or what might be the problem as never owned them myself.

Not being aware of your set up or bikes cockpit I never considered the extra outlay you would need for hydro upgrade although cheap shifters would not be expensive and have bought 3x8/9 shifter sets for as little as £20ish on sale.

No personal experience of cable operated hydro brakes but don't like the way they are designed with oil right at the heat source of braking friction would imagine problems with this and aren't an ideal solution.

I buy front and rear aftermarket pads for around £12 and never had problems with them.

mrfpb

mrb123 said:

My Spyres have been ok - not as good as decent rim brakes in the dry or hydraulic discs in any conditions but perfectly useable.

Pad life has been much longer for me than you've experienced. Perhaps try some new ones - I got my last lot from Disco Brakes. They have various compounds to choose from depending upon your requirements.

Compressionless cables can help a bit - reduces the sponginess in the lever pull.

Only other advice is to set the pads as close as you can so basically screw the screws in until the pads touch and then back them off just enough that they no longer do.

I hadn't thought about the cables. I'm getting some sintered pads to see if they improve performance, but if theat doesn't work, then I'll get some cables. Is it obvious which are compressionless when buying?

mrb123

They will usually say so in the description. Jagwire and TRP do them.

reaperactual

.

reaperactual

Swapping the cables from the 'good' brakes onto Spyres, won't cost a penny.

veronese68

reaperactual48 said:

Not being aware of your set up or bikes cockpit I never considered the extra outlay you would need for hydro upgrade although cheap shifters would not be expensive and have bought 3x8/9 shifter sets for as little as £20ish on sale.

Rather more expensive for drop bars, I suspect you're talking flat bar.
I used to have a Parabox set up, hydraulic converter under the stem, that worked well. No longer sold but I think Giant do something similar.
Saying all that the Spyre should be better than you say. Pads and cables first then check alignment carefully. Pads may wear quicker off road if in wet and gritty conditions.

mrfpb

veronese68 said:

Saying all that the Spyre should be better than you say. Pads and cables first then check alignment carefully. Pads may wear quicker off road if in wet and gritty conditions.

That's what I'm thinking - the experience doesn't match reviews. It was a Halfords purchase. And it's been exclusively on a mostly very muddy canal path commute (October to March), but it's still 300 miles for SPyres v. 3,000 miles for Hayes (that were used a lot off road in the past). The weather and dirt doesn't make that much difference.

The pads and other adjustments are on the weekend job list. I'll see if I need new cables after that.

reaperactual

mrfpb said:

I've often heard they're the best, so why are my Hayes cable brakes better at stopping a bike?

Moving to hydros would mean a whole new groupset, which I'm not currently contemplating. I am keeping an eye on the GRX system, just to see if there are any issues and may go for a 2x10 set up at the end of the year (when my current cycle to work scheme ends).

So I was interested in a fix for the Spyres or a stopgap option.

So sorry mrfpb.😭 New to forums, time on my hands, trying to be helpful not realising I'm on road bike category.

Thanks for even responding to my totally unhelpful and irrelevant posts!👍

mrfpb

Hakuna matata. Happy riding.

mrfpb

The pads don't seem to be the problem. I'll look at cables, and it looks like I have a warped front rotor. I'll have to see if my C2W 20% discoubt is usable during lockdown.

mrfpb

Checked the cable housing on the bike - it is Jagwire KEB-SL, so I already have compressionless cable housing. So that's not the answer to my problem.