Removing stuck barrel adjuster

ticklytigger
ticklytigger Posts: 23
edited April 2020 in Workshop

Hi,

due to Corona, I've bitten the bullet and gotten used specialized allez (2015 I think) road bike. It needs a little TLC, which means I'm learning a lot about components.

I'm thinking of changing the cabling and the shifters. One of the barrel adjusters is not moving at all (see pics) and my worry is that if I remove the cabling and I won't be able to remove it, I'm stuck with a non functioning bike (I really need it at the moment).

Does anyone have experience with barrel adjusters and if they're easy to remove once the cabling is out?





thanks,

Phil


Comments

  • Can’t see your pictures but I had the same issue recently. I removed the seized barrel adjuster with pliers and ordered a replacement from Spa cycles.
  • Can’t see your pictures but I had the same issue recently. I removed the seized barrel adjuster with pliers and ordered a replacement from Spa cycles.

    so the barrel adjuster isn't locked into the frame like a screw? it's placed?
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,686
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • Darius_Jedburgh
    Darius_Jedburgh Posts: 675
    edited April 2020
    That's just a bog standard Barrel adjuster. It screws into the housing. Try some WD40 or similar. If that doesn't work then as above use pliers and get a replacement. They are cheap as chips.

    Remove the cabling first to make things easier.
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,415
    Or just leave them in place and put an inline one, or if it has older style cable routing, then use one on the cable exit from the shifter instead. You don't need one for the rear derailleur.

    This happened on my daughter's bike. It was rusted into the frame and no amount of Plug Gas would release it and the barrel just kept spinning without unscrewing it. Needed a long drill to remove which I didn't have so just added an inline one.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    When you are using pliers make sure you do not break the adjuster and leave the threaded bit stuck in the frame. If you do that is when your problem starts.
  • There is or should be an adjuster on the rear mech which will do the same job.
  • here are the images again:


  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Just leave it. You don't need a barrel adjuster for the FD and the RD has one built in (so do the newer Shimano FDs). If you break it off then you'll struggle to get it out as any drill bit will pass very close or touch the head tube. Inline adjusters are more trouble than they're worth IMO so I wouldn't bother.
  • bobones said:

    Just leave it. You don't need a barrel adjuster for the FD and the RD has one built in (so do the newer Shimano FDs). If you break it off then you'll struggle to get it out as any drill bit will pass very close or touch the head tube. Inline adjusters are more trouble than they're worth IMO so I wouldn't bother.

    Ok, but can I just pass a new cable through it?
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215


    Ok, but can I just pass a new cable through it?

    Yes.
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,415
    bobones said:

    Just leave it. You don't need a barrel adjuster for the FD.....

    I beg to differ. Sometimes you can’t get enough tension on the cable just by pulling to get clean shifts. Often need it to trim the shifting so you don’t get rub. Inline adjusters are fine and you only need one. Need to choose the placement carefully so it’s on as straight a bit of outer run as possible.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382

    bobones said:

    Just leave it. You don't need a barrel adjuster for the FD.....

    I beg to differ. Sometimes you can’t get enough tension on the cable just by pulling to get clean shifts. Often need it to trim the shifting so you don’t get rub. Inline adjusters are fine and you only need one. Need to choose the placement carefully so it’s on as straight a bit of outer run as possible.
    I am somewhere in the middle here. I have built two bikes with internal cables and managed fine with just the rear mech adjuster but i have found an in-line adjuster very useful on the front mech ( 6800 ).
  • Thanks for the comments! The main thing I was worried about is removing the cables and then if the barrel adjuster is stuck not being able to run a new cable through ...