Tubeless Tyres

dbateman91
dbateman91 Posts: 6
in MTB general
Hi
I have a Cube Access Hybrid Exc 500 electric mountain bike at the moment it has Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.6 tyres on with inner-tube I would like to replace with same tyre but tubeless. My son who is into mountain biking has said I need specific ones for a electric bike. Has anyone any idea what tyres would be best.
Thanks

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    edited April 2020
    You don't, your son is misinformed (assuming he's a teen he will never be wrong of course). You can use your existing tyres, the only Nobby Nic that is 2.6 is tubeless ready and rated for e-bikes - which just means a tougher sidewall (TLE in Schwalbe speak).

    Cube list your rims as tubeless ready, so you just need a tubeless rim tape and valve, and then to know how to inflate them!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    I agree with Rookie, but I would add a few points.

    If the wheel of the bike was sold as TLR (ie tubeless ready), then you won't need to add any rim tape, but you still will have to buy a pair of tubeless valves.
    I have had so many problems with leaky rim tape on supposedly TLR wheels that I now just strip it off and apply two layers of Gorilla tape. It has never failed me. My local bike shop uses it too. Some say not to use Gorilla tape because it is hard to remove cleanly if you need to do so. I have never needed to do that so I can't comment.

    I would strongly advise using some tyre sealant in the tyres. If the tyres are TLR they won't need sealant to hold pressure, but they will need sealant to prevent a puncture becoming a flat. If the tyre is not TLR, then a latex sealant will be essential to seal the tyre carcass so that it will hold air.
    Because of the flat-prevention properties, I would not consider going tubeless without using sealant, even on proper UST tubeless tyres (not just TLR).

    The internet is full of tips on how to seat a tubeless tyre (try Park Tool, Bike Radar, or pretty much anywhere on You Tube). I use an Airshot tubeless tyre inflater because it makes inflation an absolute doddle.
    https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Airshot-Tubeless-Tyre-Inflator_85096.htm?sku=282573&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwqJ_1BRBZEiwAv73uwKrZJwwn-qJe8QKcgnR8G14B-jN1s0jRHVkJ6Mn4W-UrNaGhrVBeIxoCh24QAvD_BwE

    If you decide to get one from Tredz, look out for the money off flash that pops up, it doesn't appear for long, so write it down!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    steve_sordy said:

    If the tyre is not TLR, then a latex sealant will be essential to seal the tyre carcass so that it will hold air.

    I've had TLR with very porous sidewalls (looked like a teenagers face mid puberty from all the spots of sealant coming out), gave up on them as they were 80g heavier than non TLR (at the time) and no better sealed!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • dbateman91
    dbateman91 Posts: 6
    Hi
    Thanks for your help, I always thought that you had to have tubeless tyres, according to a bike shop in Lake District mine are not, this is what is confusing me
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    edited April 2020
    The Rookie said:

    steve_sordy said:

    If the tyre is not TLR, then a latex sealant will be essential to seal the tyre carcass so that it will hold air.

    I've had TLR with very porous sidewalls (looked like a teenagers face mid puberty from all the spots of sealant coming out), gave up on them as they were 80g heavier than non TLR (at the time) and no better sealed!
    That sounds like grounds for a warranty claim to me. I guess that tyre pressure would have something to do with it, ie the higher the pressure the more likely you are to get leakage. But even so, without the benefit of your experience, I would have expected the sidewalls to seal eventually. How long ago was this?

    I used to use a non-latex sealant and it was great, never went "off" at all. But it did not seal porous tyre walls ! Ten years ago or so, I remember seeing a tyre on its side covered in soapy water, with thousands of mini volcanoes of white foam erupting from the tyre walls. Prior to that I thought all tyres were air tight!
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,453
    dbateman91 said:

    .......... I always thought that you had to have tubeless tyres, ........../blockquote>

    Nope, absolutely not.

    There is no doubt that proper UST tubeless tyres on a UST tubeless rim installs and performs like a dream. But they are heavier and more expensive. There is sure to be a combination of tyre and rim out there that cannot be made tubeless, but I have yet to hear of one.
    (Cowers under expected avalanche of examples)......

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    steve_sordy said:

    The Rookie said:


    I've had TLR with very porous sidewalls (looked like a teenagers face mid puberty from all the spots of sealant coming out), gave up on them as they were 80g heavier than non TLR (at the time) and no better sealed!

    That sounds like grounds for a warranty claim to me. I guess that tyre pressure would have something to do with it, ie the higher the pressure the more likely you are to get leakage.
    Sealed straight away, just held wheel flat and swirl sealant round, repeat for other side. Were leaking at 35psi just after they popped the beads onto the rim.
    I used an Italian sealant I got cheap (1 litre bottle) from on-one in one of their giveaway sales, brilliant stuff but no longer available in the UK.

    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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