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Clicking ring bolts on slx m7000 crank

So during this lockdown carry on I’ve ordered some new parts for bike.

To cut a long story short fitted everything and got clicking coming from I suspect the chainring bolts when applying pressure when pedalling.

Everything was cleaned up before putting together threads and loctite applied.

Bolts were torqued evenly to 12nm as in the shimano tech docs it said 12-16nm.

Any ideas to get rid of it, never did it with the shimano ring that came applied from factory that I’ve replaced as it was worn.

Could I just grease them lightly and torque up?


  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 2,229
    Undo the bolts, ensure that the mating surfaces between the ring and the spider are clean and debris free.

    Reapply the Loctite and then torque to 16Nm. Don't tighten one all the way up, and then the others. Instead, nip them up in a pattern. first one then one on the other the other side of the chin ring, then back and forth until they are all nipped up. Then half tighten in the same manner, then use your torque wrench and tighten in the same pattern.

    One last thing, an afterthought really: Do you have a narrow-wide chain ring? If so, have you put the chain on correctly? It should be difficult to do otherwise, but I'm sure some chain/ring combinations may allow it.
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    cheers for reply.

    I’ve left the chainring alone for now. I did the bolts up in a pattern before to make sure it was on level.

    I’ve started from scratch.

    Taken out bottom bracket, cleaned and regreased threads, it’s a hope bsa threaded one, bearings are fine in that.

    The threads looked dry and could well be my issue, so fresh Mobil grease might sort it.

    chain is a kmc x10-sl which aren’t directional are they?

    Everything refitted not had time to test ride, working at home and tidying up it was soon 8pm and I couldn’t be bothered.

  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 2,229
    swod1 said:


    chain is a kmc x10-sl which aren’t directional are they?


    What I meant was that a narrow-wide chain ring has teeth that are alternately narrow then wide. They are designed to better fill the narrow-wide gaps in the chain and so reduced chain loss. If ever you fit the chain incorrectly, you should know about it sharpish!
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    ah right yes, its a narrow/wide chainring I'm using, think I misread your message earlier today.

    I'll give it a ride and see how I get on. Its the 2nd slx m7000 crank on my bike, last one failed two bolts came loose and damaged the threads.

    I didn't want the same thing to happen again, just being over cautious I think.
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Steve, just thought I'd let you know. left the chainring alone and gave the bike a ride.

    dry bottom bracket threads appeared to be the cause., all good now with some fresh mobil grease on there.

    great stuff that xhp 222 grease., just a bit thick to be used in rear wheel freehubs etc.
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