wednesday a riot of our own
Comments
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@step83step83 said:I like nothing more than going past someone wheezing up a hill while I appear to be totally fine.
@pinno attacked initially with some 240 grit to break the clear coat then only 600 grit then 800/1200 grit once I get to the black so as not to take off to much.
Need a container for the frame furniture though.
Carbon looks to just be ID stuff but the paint is really thick.
Sorely tempted to slap a detail sander on to get the worst of the paint off though.
'Mission creep' - An intended mission which gets bigger and bigger...
Like my engine swap - then I got some Alu cleaner, then bushes then power steering pump seal kit, then clutch slave cylinder and so one... then I moved backwards to rear drop links and anti-roll bar bushes...
Now i'm looking at Cunifer brake line replacement, flaring tools, pipe benders...
https://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=24357
Have you tried the newer paint remover- water based, not like the old Nitromors. like Biostrip 20?
Do a test patch perhaps.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Oh it'll certainly be a creeper!pinno said:
@step83step83 said:I like nothing more than going past someone wheezing up a hill while I appear to be totally fine.
@pinno attacked initially with some 240 grit to break the clear coat then only 600 grit then 800/1200 grit once I get to the black so as not to take off to much.
Need a container for the frame furniture though.
Carbon looks to just be ID stuff but the paint is really thick.
Sorely tempted to slap a detail sander on to get the worst of the paint off though.
'Mission creep' - An intended mission which gets bigger and bigger...
Like my engine swap - then I got some Alu cleaner, then bushes then power steering pump seal kit, then clutch slave cylinder and so one... then I moved backwards to rear drop links and anti-roll bar bushes...
Now i'm looking at Cunifer brake line replacement, flaring tools, pipe benders...
https://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=24357
Have you tried the newer paint remover- water based, not like the old Nitromors. like Biostrip 20?
Do a test patch perhaps.
That transmission casing does look good all cleaned up though!
I had a chat with one of the paint shop guys, he said basically don't use any solvents as it'll attack the resin in the fibre. I may try some of that stuff, I have some wood I need to lift the varnish off an I have an old seat post I can try it on see if it reacts.
Bar that he said pain prep pad, so scotch brite pad to go through the paint then a high grit paper or slap wheel on the fiddly bits.
Parts wise, yeah trying not to creep but I know I'll happen, wheels I have a set of 35mm deep alloys that I'll use. Groupset, now this is where it gets fun. I have a few options.
SRAM force/rival mechanical 2x10
SRAM force shifters with an MTB rear mech a road link and have a mullet 1x10 with a 11-40t cassette
Or, as I discovered recently, I might be able to revive my faulty old etap mech by fixing a clogged bushing, an use that. That is the most expensive option, but Dan tempting, maybe even 1x11 on a road link which I've seen done.
I have some bits, but missing handy things like brakes 😂
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1 x 11? In your state!
Try 26/32 front, 12/34 rear
I have no idea what any of that meant. I wouldn't know one end of an SRAM part from the other but I hope it helped you make your mind up writing it down.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Well, once I've recovered 1/11 could be nice, keeps it simple an might be a smidge lighterpinno said:1 x 11? In your state!
Try 26/32 front, 12/34 rear
I have no idea what any of that meant. I wouldn't know one end of an SRAM part from the other but I hope it helped you make your mind up writing it down.
Rival is mid range like 105 force is one up from that.
Could do 26/32 front and 11/40 rear? The 26/40 gearing would mean I get out paced by moss growth so seems suitable.
Still stuck eTap bits are expensive, SRAM components are getting hard to get hold of thanks to the lockdown, think I'll find some decent brakes for now!0
