Is this bike worth repairing? No gears are working and there is lots of rust..
When i try to do any of the front gears i could not physically press the gear leaver as it was too stiff. So i thought maybe the cable was too tight not allowing enough give to move the front gears. I loosened the front gear cable as show in picture 1 where the Allen Key is and this allowed me move the gear leaver but the front derailleur does not move at all now so the front gears stay stuck on the same gear. How tight should the cable be going to the front derailleur, should there be any slack or should it be as tight as possible?
The back gears are also really dodge and barely work the gear change is really stiff again when pressing it. Also the chain does not go onto all the gears it skips some or will make a grinding noise until it finally drops onto a gear.
Both gears cable have rust on them.
Back breaks do not work at all and i have no idea how to get them working either.
Can anyone help me with this please? Is it worth even repairing?
Album : https://imgur.com/a/M92mVin
Comments
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At the very least, it needs all new cables and a new chain. The back brake doesn't work because the cable is not connected. The threaded part attached to the cable needs to thread into the lever body - If the front brake works then copy how that looks. It's probably worth taking to a bike shop if you're not sure how to do this though, it shouldn't cost a huge amount for the work to be done. You'll be looking at around £15 for the chain, £20-30 for the cables and then labour on top.1
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Might give it a go , would be a good project to learn on!whyamihere said:At the very least, it needs all new cables and a new chain. The back brake doesn't work because the cable is not connected. The threaded part attached to the cable needs to thread into the lever body - If the front brake works then copy how that looks. It's probably worth taking to a bike shop if you're not sure how to do this though, it shouldn't cost a huge amount for the work to be done. You'll be looking at around £15 for the chain, £20-30 for the cables and then labour on top.
What is causing the chain to slip? (peddling and it just randomly loses contact with the gears so it does not move the bike) Is it just a knackered chain?
Just had a quick research on parts this could be a lot cheaper than i realized to fix!!
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The chain is low going on to the front chainring - this may be due to a bent chainring gripping the chain against the bigger ring.0
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The combination of rusty chain, probably full of stiff links, rusty/stiff derailleurs, cables and gears generally out of tune will be causing it to slip like that.
Take off all gear & brake cables and bin them. Take the chain off too and bin that. I can see a split link in the edge of pic 4 - just pinch the link with needle nose pliers if you don't have a chain link tool, but it may take some effort because of the rust. Not to worry if you have to rive it around a bit as it's for the bin anyway.
Clean the derailleurs (gear mechs) , add a drop of oil to the pivots and springs and work a little by hand to loosen them up.
Take off the brakes - there are springs inside the base around the pivot/bolt that holds them onto the bike frame. Clean them up and grease them & the pivot surface. Check the brake pads for wear & replace if neccessary.
Fit new cables & chain & tune your gears & brakes. Get a chain with a split link so you don't need to buy a chain tool (and it's easier anyway) - make sure it's for the right number of gears (count the rear cogs). There's plenty of online guides (start with park tools website) - or get a shop to do it.
Other small jobs I would want to do if it was mine (unless it's just a cheap get-around-town bike that you don't care about) :
Loosen the stem and seatpost to make sure they haven't seized
Take out and re-seat the bottom bracket to make sure it hasn't seized in the frame. It will probably be a sealed cartridge & will be ok to re-use - just need to make sure it's not stuck in the frame. Clean up the threads and grease them.
Same with the headset - clean & grease. Will probably be sealed bearings but they may have gone rusty & need replacing.
Take off pedals, clean & grease threads (or fit something less slippy underfoot than those plastic ones) Remember the pedals have opposite threads - the left side unscrews clockwise and the right side anti-clockwise.
Replace & grease all rusty bolts around the frame
Apart from the bottom bracket you can all this with Allen keys, pliers and wire cutters & spanner/wrench for the pedals.0 -
You haven't mentioned the seatpost, which could be the hardest job of all.0
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Amazing help thanks very much for all the time you put into this so helpful!!danx said:The combination of rusty chain, probably full of stiff links, rusty/stiff derailleurs, cables and gears generally out of tune will be causing it to slip like that.
Take off all gear & brake cables and bin them. Take the chain off too and bin that. I can see a split link in the edge of pic 4 - just pinch the link with needle nose pliers if you don't have a chain link tool, but it may take some effort because of the rust. Not to worry if you have to rive it around a bit as it's for the bin anyway.
Clean the derailleurs (gear mechs) , add a drop of oil to the pivots and springs and work a little by hand to loosen them up.
Take off the brakes - there are springs inside the base around the pivot/bolt that holds them onto the bike frame. Clean them up and grease them & the pivot surface. Check the brake pads for wear & replace if neccessary.
Fit new cables & chain & tune your gears & brakes. Get a chain with a split link so you don't need to buy a chain tool (and it's easier anyway) - make sure it's for the right number of gears (count the rear cogs). There's plenty of online guides (start with park tools website) - or get a shop to do it.
Other small jobs I would want to do if it was mine (unless it's just a cheap get-around-town bike that you don't care about) :
Loosen the stem and seatpost to make sure they haven't seized
Take out and re-seat the bottom bracket to make sure it hasn't seized in the frame. It will probably be a sealed cartridge & will be ok to re-use - just need to make sure it's not stuck in the frame. Clean up the threads and grease them.
Same with the headset - clean & grease. Will probably be sealed bearings but they may have gone rusty & need replacing.
Take off pedals, clean & grease threads (or fit something less slippy underfoot than those plastic ones) Remember the pedals have opposite threads - the left side unscrews clockwise and the right side anti-clockwise.
Replace & grease all rusty bolts around the frame
Apart from the bottom bracket you can all this with Allen keys, pliers and wire cutters & spanner/wrench for the pedals.
The front derailleur does not seem to have any movement in it at all so think that also needs to be thrown in the bin? I was thinking of maybe getting rid of the front derailleur and leaving it on the second cog and just using the rear gears would that be a bad idea?
Seat post seems fine can slide in and out with ease.
I was almost buying a chain link tool so you have saved me some money there i already have the other tools luckily!
Only concern would be do i need a chain link tool to make the chain the same size as the one i am removing?
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You will need a chain tool to take links out.
How are the tyres and tubes ? Not perished ?0 -
Tyres are looking good!fenix said:You will need a chain tool to take links out.
How are the tyres and tubes ? Not perished ?
Should i get a ToPeak Mini Pro 20 to do the job ? Or are multi tools rubbish should i be getting a dedicated chain tool?
Thinking it might be wise to get a multitool and keep it in rucksack when i am out if i have any situations and i need to deal with? Any other options which are better value or cheaper?0 -
Seatpost is good , just checked thanks for mentioning though !FrankYates said:You haven't mentioned the seatpost, which could be the hardest job of all.
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Something like this will be adequatemailadamwilkinson said:
Tyres are looking good!fenix said:You will need a chain tool to take links out.
How are the tyres and tubes ? Not perished ?
Should i get a ToPeak Mini Pro 20 to do the job ? Or are multi tools rubbish should i be getting a dedicated chain tool?
Thinking it might be wise to get a multitool and keep it in rucksack when i am out if i have any situations and i need to deal with? Any other options which are better value or cheaper?
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-mini-chain-tool-ct-5/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360738006&kpid=5360738006&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv|s0fLp55Er_dc|mcrid|295296961877|mkw||mmt||mrd|5360738006uk|mslid||&mkwid=s0fLp55Er_dc&pcrid=295296961877&prd=5360738006uk&pgrid=57437518777&ptaid=pla-523118120876&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvZKM9Oz56AIV2O3tCh2bgQgQEAQYASABEgJCm_D_BwE1 -
Yes definitely get a proper chain tool. Its a PITA using a multi tool.1
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Purchased the following
3 X bike chains (have another chain which is snapped) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312161217490 which was £14 (3 for 2)
2 x gear cables https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143217830246 =£3.20
2 x break cables https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143217830246 = £3.20
Should i bother with a front derailleur at £10 or just leave it off?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NK7NT5I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Qs0NEbW2S0QPM0 -
You've chosen barrel end cables. Are they the same as what you have now? There are different types of end.
You also need cable outer.0 -
Yea both break and gear barrel end from what i could tell.FrankYates said:You've chosen barrel end cables. Are they the same as what you have now? There are different types of end.
You also need cable outer.
Is the outer cable just the black plastic which is around the break and gear wires near the handle bars? Can i reuse what is already on the bike or does it not work like that?0 -
Have emailed eBay seller to see if i can cancel the order on both brake and gear cables. After researching think i need ones which are already done with the outers to save the hassle0
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Ebay seller has cancelled cables for me.
Am i best with these pre made cables so i do not need to cut the outer or is there a issue i have not seen with them?
2 of these for gear cable
Clarks Teflon Gear Cable - Black, 227.5 cm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000AOA614/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_tX3NEbTN4N0M0
This for front and rear brakes
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282043375372
Will both options work with barrel ended terminations?
Will double check the ends of the cables tomorrow on bike.
Thanks for everyone's great help so far really appreciated and have learnt a lot already! :-)0 -
They are brakes, not breaks.
Single ended ones are best. Double ended need cutting which can cause fraying of the threads leading to difficulty threading through the outer. Single ended gave the ends soldered or fused together.
Get new outers. The old ones are likely to be worn on the inside. Get good quality to ensure smooth operation. Outers may need cutting to length suitable for the bike. Get a proper cable cutter, but even then you may crush the inner lining and will need a small nail or similar to open it ip again.
Welcome to the wonderful world of bike maintenance!!!1 -
Thanks for all your help and patience!FrankYates said:They are brakes, not breaks.
Single ended ones are best. Double ended need cutting which can cause fraying of the threads leading to difficulty threading through the outer. Single ended gave the ends soldered or fused together.
Get new outers. The old ones are likely to be worn on the inside. Get good quality to ensure smooth operation. Outers may need cutting to length suitable for the bike. Get a proper cable cutter, but even then you may crush the inner lining and will need a small nail or similar to open it ip again.
Welcome to the wonderful world of bike maintenance!!!
I am dyslexic so often muddle a lot of words up but thanks for the heads up , will make an effort to get brake spelt correct
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If i do not bother getting a Front Derailleur which gear should i leave the chain on the front to make the most of the 8 gears at the back? I have three cogs on on front gear small, medium or large?0
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Good God! Where have you been storing this? Bottom of the ocean?
It's salvageable but at what cost.
Here is the basic minimum shopping list you need to get going and stopping. Don't bother trying to free up the front derailleur. Once they get that bad chuck it away and put a new one one for the sake of a tenner.
https://tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FD-M310-Altus-8-Speed-Front-Derailleur_72150.htm
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-x-tools-pro-coloured-allen-key-set/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-brake-cable-set-mtbhybrid-1/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-gear-cable-set-shimanosram/
https://wiggle.co.uk/birzman-cable-and-housing-cutters/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-mtb-dual-stop-v-brake-pads-pack-of-4/
https://wiggle.co.uk/topeak-universal-chain-breaker-tool/
https://wiggle.co.uk/sram-pc850-8-speed-chain/
https://wiggle.co.uk/finish-line-cross-country-wet-lubricant-120ml-bottle/
So new:
Front Derailleur
Hex Keys
Gear Cable
Brake Cable
Brake Shoes
Chain
Chain Tool
Cable/Outer Cutter
Chain Lube - also to lube rear derailleur links, V-Brake pivots, brake lever pivots etc
Total cost of this comes to around £80
Google "Park Tools Maintenance" videos as a good resource for viewing "how to" vids.
Good luck!Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.
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This project is getting out of hand haha think i am going to sell it for scrap at £20 and put it towards something elsephotonic69 said:Good God! Where have you been storing this? Bottom of the ocean?
It's salvageable but at what cost.
Here is the basic minimum shopping list you need to get going and stopping. Don't bother trying to free up the front derailleur. Once they get that bad chuck it away and put a new one one for the sake of a tenner.
https://tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FD-M310-Altus-8-Speed-Front-Derailleur_72150.htm
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-x-tools-pro-coloured-allen-key-set/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-brake-cable-set-mtbhybrid-1/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-gear-cable-set-shimanosram/
https://wiggle.co.uk/birzman-cable-and-housing-cutters/
https://wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-mtb-dual-stop-v-brake-pads-pack-of-4/
https://wiggle.co.uk/topeak-universal-chain-breaker-tool/
https://wiggle.co.uk/sram-pc850-8-speed-chain/
https://wiggle.co.uk/finish-line-cross-country-wet-lubricant-120ml-bottle/
So new:
Front Derailleur
Hex Keys
Gear Cable
Brake Cable
Brake Shoes
Chain
Chain Tool
Cable/Outer Cutter
Chain Lube - also to lube rear derailleur links, V-Brake pivots, brake lever pivots etc
Total cost of this comes to around £80
Google "Park Tools Maintenance" videos as a good resource for viewing "how to" vids.
Good luck!0 -
mailadamwilkinson : Good luck with the refresh build, just spend what you want, if you don't like it to ride, then sell it. You’ll probably have to keep the front derailleur in place to keep the chain on whichever chainring you decide is best for your use (cadence being the governing factor) largest or middle at a guess.
By-the-buy If you do buy a chain splitter, please buy one with an adjustable thumbscrew on the bottom, it saves so much hassle...
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