di2 setup with e-tube

benali

Have an issue with the di2 programming with e-tube on my cube c62. With everything connected the e-tube (via sm-bcr2 to pc) does not detect any units. If I disconnect the battery then it detects everything apart from bt dn110 master unit (battery). If I just connect the battery then it detects both bt dn110 (bat) and sm ew90-a.
All I want is to change some shift settings which I was able to do after I eventually worked out that disconnecting the battery let me access the other modules.
In operation, everything is working fine and the battery seems good.
But for some reason with it all connected e-tube doesn't see anything at all. Really weird!
I hope it's not to do with the junction box hidden in the crank area.
Any ideas anyone?

StillGoing

If the lead has not been inserted fully in junction B, it could well be that you need to remove the cranks and check the connection.

benali

OK. It's strange as everything operates fine on the bike. But in order to get e-tube to connect up, I need to disconnect the battery. So I have a workaround, but just bugging me that something is not right.

benali

This is really weird. So I notice on my ride today; if I haven't shifted the rd for a couple of minutes or so, then the first click on my rd shifter lever and nothing happens, second click and it starts working again, almost like it's gone into a sleep mode!
What with the e-tube connection issue as well, getting pretty frustrated!
I wonder if it is a connection issue in the b box at bb.
Anyone got any ideas?

StillGoing

The logic says check all connections and use the tool to ensure they are fully inserted.

benali

Yeah I know, it's just the hollowtech press-fit bb I need to remove (which is worrying me)
Shame they put b junction in inaccessible place!
How much of a job is this?

StillGoing

Simple. Hollowtech BB is a simple removal.

benali

Not the threaded version, mine looks like the press-fit, which isn't so simple is it?

benali

Pretty sure this is sorted now, damp in my b box I think. Took bike inside with seat post out and gave a chance to completely dry out. Not sure tbh if all these di2 components are fully waterproof.

benali

Still having a niggle with my di2 set-up.
Anyway, this is my question:
Does di2 go into a sleep mode when inactive for a while?
Cause if I haven't had a gear change for a few minutes, then it takes a couple of clicks to wake it back up?

StillGoing

Mine does the same. Never had any problems with water ingress either.

benali

Pretty sure its the cable to the RD. Died completely yesterday, I discovered by moving the cable around I can make it work or not. I think there is a break in the cable close to the connector. I've put a cable tie for now which keeps it in a position where it works. PITA as BB out to replace it. Can someone tell me what tool I need to remove this BB (Hollowtech II, press-fit)

feelgoodlost

You will need one of these to knock the BB cups out to access the bottom bracket area where the junction box is - https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-press-fit-bb-bearing-tool-set-bbt-903/?utm_source=order-processed-sg01-gb&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=orders&utm_content=product

You will then need to source a bottom bracket/bearing press to install a new bottom bracket. I have the X-Tools one from Wiggle that works just fine (though they don't appear to have them listed on their site any more)

You'll need this replacement bottom bracket (unless you go with another model) - https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pressfit-road-bottom-bracket-with-inner-cover-1/

If you're not confident of doing any of the above yourself then I would suggest taking it to your LBS who will have all the tools to do it for you. Knocking out a factory installed bottom bracket is never a pretty task. Trust me, I have the exact same bike as you and the first time I tried to do it I had to stop and take it to a bike shop because I was concerned for the frame! It was sealed in pretty tight....

benali

Thanks for the links very helpful!
It sounds like it’s probably better to let the lbs take the bb out, can’t charge too much for that I guess.
I have access to the press tool, so I can then refit when I have satisfied myself that all the connections are good.
I am having a bit of bad luck here as I now think that the battery is also faulty. It was dead this morning after being fully charged a few days back. I recharged it again, get a green light on junction A. However, voltmeter across it and it shows less than 1 volt! Nearly 3 years old according to date stamp. So, think I’ll cut my losses and buy a new one, bt-dn110, anyone bought one of these lately at a good price?

feelgoodlost

The current batteries seem to have dropped in price. Have a look on eBay etc. I'm sure you'll pick one up for around £100-120

I had some bother with my front mech a couple of weeks ago and that was resolved by putting the di2 in crash recovery mode (hold the junction box button down and spin the cranks until the rear mech works it's way up the cassette block) and it's been fine since. Your issue does sound like it could be more battery related than anything else though - I know my Cube came with the battery just shoved into the downtube, as opposed to into the seat post like you often see with other di2 installs. It has had a tendency to rattle around from time to time which I imagine hasn't done it any good.

benali

Ok, thanks. The battery is now ordered and a cable.
I think this is an equivalent bb tool:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IceToolz-E294-Press-Fit-Bearing-Removal-Tool-for-Bike-46mm/133277477549?epid=25004513907&hash=item1f07f4eaad:g:XTQAAOSw1Rpd-3Oo
So may try this one at half the price.

benali

On the cube c62 is the bearing shell plain carbon or with an aluminum liner?

feelgoodlost

benali said:

Ok, thanks. The battery is now ordered and a cable.
I think this is an equivalent bb tool:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IceToolz-E294-Press-Fit-Bearing-Removal-Tool-for-Bike-46mm/133277477549?epid=25004513907&hash=item1f07f4eaad:g:XTQAAOSw1Rpd-3Oo
So may try this one at half the price.

Yeah, that should work if it's 46mm.

with regards to the BB shell, it's an all carbon shell. My adivce is to be extra careful when knocking the BB cups out, that you're definitely hitting the back of the bearing cups, rather than the lip of the BB shell.