cemmac said:HiIf i buy now some expensive rim brake wheels. The current plan is next year for new bike, would rim brake still be able to get or rim brake goes out of stores totally?
HiIf i buy now some expensive rim brake wheels. The current plan is next year for new bike, would rim brake still be able to get or rim brake goes out of stores totally?
oxoman said:I ride both and prefer my rim braked bike for touring and wet commutes as I keeps me more wary. Very easy to slide with disc brakes.
I ride both and prefer my rim braked bike for touring and wet commutes as I keeps me more wary. Very easy to slide with disc brakes.
pilot_pete said: oxoman said:I ride both and prefer my rim braked bike for touring and wet commutes as I keeps me more wary. Very easy to slide with disc brakes. Really? I mean, really? Incorrect braking technique means it is easy to slide with either brake system in the wet. Disc brakes give better modulation and in my experience make it easier to brake without sliding in the wet. Add in the other undeniable benefits of disc brakes with regards touring (heavier loads) and wet commuting (more wear and tear) then I think your position is somewhat contrary to proven fact.Let’s take all weather commuting as an example.1. Disc brakes offer more predictable braking characteristics, especially in the wet (you pull the lever and they immediately start to retard your speed, no wiping the rims clean of water before they start to grab).2. Braking in the wet especially causes road grime to form a grinding paste which rim brakes use to grind away your aluminium rims. This leads to high pad wear rates and eventually rim failure. Disc brakes suffer none of this phenomenon. 3. Regarding 2 above, changing disc brake pads when worn out takes about a minute per wheel. Changing and aligning rim brake pads takes significantly longer as you need to unscrew each one individually, loosen or adjust the brake cable pull to open the caliper wider, probably remove the wheel to put the new pad holder in place (just makes it easier), fit the new pad holders and pads and then spend a number of minutes re-aligning them with the rim surface and adjusting the brake position and cable pull to get correct alignment and lever pull. Disc pads are held in with one small bolt or a split pin and pull out and pop back in in one position only. Most it will take above this is to use a soft lever to push the pistons back a fraction. Some require you to change the actual pads in the holders, I remember Campagnolo brakes requiring considerable effort to push the new ones in - this couldn’t be done with them fitted to the bike, you had to take the holders off and use a clamp/ vice to force the new ones in. A right pain. The Shimano variety with the little grub screw were much easier.4. Lack of rim brake calipers mean that rim and tyre widths can be wider. This will be an undoubted comfort benefit on a tourer or commuter. Also, on a commuter it means a higher volume tyre can be fitted (obviously by design, not on an old frame with limited clearance), which will have the added benefit of more impact resistance on less than optimal road surfaces.5. If you run carbon fibre rims they will not only last significantly longer on a disc brake bike but will actually stop you in the wet as well as the dry with no decrease in braking performance.6. Hydraulic disc brakes are much less maintenance/ adjustment demanding than rim. The occasional clean around the pistons and periodic (simpler) pad replacement is pretty much it apart from the odd change of fluid with a bleed (which is incredibly simple once you’ve tried it). Especially if you don’t run mudguards, rim brakes get covered in censored in the wet and start to gum up. Cable inners and outers, although they do last a long time, will eventually need changing with wear and the brakes will need stripping and cleaning and a bit of lube to keep them from sticking.That’s why I would choose disc over rim brakes for a tourer or commuter.PP