Which Crankset?
First.Aspect
Posts: 17,386
I'm sick of Shimano cranksets. They spend about 3 years looking hideous and then start to creak so they sound hideous as well.
I've got a 68mm iso threaded shell on my commuter.
What are my alternatives to ultegra?
I've got a 68mm iso threaded shell on my commuter.
What are my alternatives to ultegra?
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Comments
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You could go back to an old school square taper chainset and bottom bracket. Spa Cycles have quite a selection. Slight weight penalty, but retro attractive, creak-free, and it'll save you a fortune.
eg https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s109p30 ... cral-Rings0 -
Mmm. I've still got a crank puller I think.
Preference would be for something more.modern, like a praxis crank or even an old 5 bolt rotor, but no idea if the BB shell is going to be compatible.0 -
I thought the BS standard threaded BB shell was compatible with most things if you avoid oversized stuff like BB30?0
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keef66 wrote:I thought the BS standard threaded BB shell was compatible with most things if you avoid oversized stuff like BB30?
Gxp is fine, I know that much, so I could get an old Force I suppose.0 -
Yeah, I was considering a Praxis Alba chainset for a while till I found out it needed it's own proprietary BB which put me off.
Do the SRAM GXP BBs not go pop quicker than the Shimano stuff? (I've only ever had the latter)0 -
Is the creak not just the BB? Just get a better one Wheels MFG or Hope. If you do go GXP it lasts probably about 5K then needs swapping out, again wheels MFG or Hope (with a shim) I have a wheels MFG one on my SRAM kit, zero issues thus far.0
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As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.
FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.
Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.
Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Step83 wrote:Is the creak not just the BB? Just get a better one Wheels MFG or Hope. If you do go GXP it lasts probably about 5K then needs swapping out, again wheels MFG or Hope (with a shim) I have a wheels MFG one on my SRAM kit, zero issues thus far.
I've only got limited experience of GXP, and it was indeed that they are made of cheese.0 -
TGOTB wrote:As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.
FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.
Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.
Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).0 -
First Aspect wrote:Those Rotor ones are tempting. BBR60 isn't listed on their website - but they are pretty well sealed so would be a bonus if I could keep using them. Are the Rotor cranks definitely compatible?
I have these cranks which I swap between two bikes, one of which has a bog standard Shimano Hollowtech BB, the other has a Hope equivalent. Given the sheer number of options (and the fact Hollowtech is the closest thing to a standard BB since square taper) I'm sure there'll be something in their current range that does the same thing.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
For alternative 24mm crankset options it looks like your choices are limited according to the Wheels Manufacturing website
https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech
Seems like Rotor have discontinued their 3D and 3D 24 product range tho you may be able to pick up a 2nd-hand one on Ebay or Gumtree
Only others are SRAM GXP or FSA Mega Exo. RaceFace EXI is also listed but I think these may be MTB only but I'm not 100% sure0 -
GXP BBs don't last in my experience, I'd rather have a Shimano/FSA. But my preference is for Praxis - I've got one Alba, and two Zayantes on the go, and have yet to replace any of them0
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First Aspect wrote:I'm sick of Shimano cranksets. They spend about 3 years looking hideous and then start to creak so they sound hideous as well.
I've got a 68mm iso threaded shell on my commuter.
What are my alternatives to ultegra?
First Aspect, sent you a PM.0 -
First Aspect wrote:TGOTB wrote:As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.
FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.
Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.
Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).
I use Rotor 3D24 cranks on my Reacto which is BB386 EVO, but using a Rotor Bright 4624L BB and on my Ride using a Rotor threaded BB.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
arlowood wrote:For alternative 24mm crankset options it looks like your choices are limited according to the Wheels Manufacturing website
https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech
Seems like Rotor have discontinued their 3D and 3D 24 product range tho you may be able to pick up a 2nd-hand one on Ebay or Gumtree
Only others are SRAM GXP or FSA Mega Exo. RaceFace EXI is also listed but I think these may be MTB only but I'm not 100% sure
And if you're getting one of those you might as well get one that does power.... https://www.power2max.com/en/product/ng ... -set-road/0 -
Buy an angle grinder if you get a set of FSA cranks. The extractor split and the threads ripped out on the set I had.
I've got 2 bikes with GXP bottom brackets, one is used to commute all year round, both are still absolutely fine. Although I've also got a 30 year old non-cartridge bottom bracket that's still perfect as well...0 -
frisbee wrote:Buy an angle grinder if you get a set of FSA cranks. The extractor split and the threads ripped out on the set I had.
I've got 2 bikes with GXP bottom brackets, one is used to commute all year round, both are still absolutely fine. Although I've also got a 30 year old non-cartridge bottom bracket that's still perfect as well...
Anyhow, replacement (Praxis) crank is on the way. The M30 BB is compatible with a 68mm threaded shell. Worst case is that it ends up on another bike in the end.
My Ultegra drive side crank is now canted inwards. Makes for an interesting pedaling sensation.
If anyone wants a LH Ultegra 5800 crank, do let me know. I now have two.0 -
Why more modern if its inferior?
Sugino is still going & have a nice range of cranks pricey though.
or
Spécialités TA
or
White industries
big £££££ options0 -
Moonbiker wrote:Why more modern if its inferior?
Sugino is still going & have a nice range of cranks pricey though.
or
Spécialités TA
or
White industries
big £££££ options0 -
& don't forget Miche
I had there Sqaure taper cranks on my first custom build/shop parts bin road bike from graham weigh.
Yeah TA still make cranks
https://specialites-ta.com/34-route
Parlez-vous français?
Also stronglight
http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/ ... _catalogue0 -
I switched cranks. Entire outer shell of the Ultegra one was loose. Seems like it originated at the pedal end, in fact.
Forged crank arms for me from now on!0