Which Crankset?

First.Aspect
First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
edited October 2019 in Road buying advice
I'm sick of Shimano cranksets. They spend about 3 years looking hideous and then start to creak so they sound hideous as well.

I've got a 68mm iso threaded shell on my commuter.

What are my alternatives to ultegra?

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You could go back to an old school square taper chainset and bottom bracket. Spa Cycles have quite a selection. Slight weight penalty, but retro attractive, creak-free, and it'll save you a fortune.

    eg https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s109p30 ... cral-Rings
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    Mmm. I've still got a crank puller I think.

    Preference would be for something more.modern, like a praxis crank or even an old 5 bolt rotor, but no idea if the BB shell is going to be compatible.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I thought the BS standard threaded BB shell was compatible with most things if you avoid oversized stuff like BB30?
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    keef66 wrote:
    I thought the BS standard threaded BB shell was compatible with most things if you avoid oversized stuff like BB30?
    And there's the rub. Praxis have their own sodding standard. So do rotor.

    Gxp is fine, I know that much, so I could get an old Force I suppose.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Yeah, I was considering a Praxis Alba chainset for a while till I found out it needed it's own proprietary BB which put me off.

    Do the SRAM GXP BBs not go pop quicker than the Shimano stuff? (I've only ever had the latter)
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Is the creak not just the BB? Just get a better one Wheels MFG or Hope. If you do go GXP it lasts probably about 5K then needs swapping out, again wheels MFG or Hope (with a shim) I have a wheels MFG one on my SRAM kit, zero issues thus far.
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.

    FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.

    Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.

    Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    Step83 wrote:
    Is the creak not just the BB? Just get a better one Wheels MFG or Hope. If you do go GXP it lasts probably about 5K then needs swapping out, again wheels MFG or Hope (with a shim) I have a wheels MFG one on my SRAM kit, zero issues thus far.
    Honestly, I've not tracked it down yet. Bearings feel fine, chain and inner ring is new. Chief suspect is the glue holding the two parts of the crank together (again). There's a high stress region in the spider right at the bolts and I've had one split there before. I can see movement on this one as well now. I'll try the BB next, and try to save myself £200.

    I've only got limited experience of GXP, and it was indeed that they are made of cheese.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    TGOTB wrote:
    As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.

    FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.

    Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.

    Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).
    Those Rotor ones are tempting. BBR60 isn't listed on their website - but they are pretty well sealed so would be a bonus if I could keep using them. Are the Rotor cranks definitely compatible?
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Those Rotor ones are tempting. BBR60 isn't listed on their website - but they are pretty well sealed so would be a bonus if I could keep using them. Are the Rotor cranks definitely compatible?
    The Rotor website isn't particularly friendly is it!

    I have these cranks which I swap between two bikes, one of which has a bog standard Shimano Hollowtech BB, the other has a Hope equivalent. Given the sheer number of options (and the fact Hollowtech is the closest thing to a standard BB since square taper) I'm sure there'll be something in their current range that does the same thing.
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    For alternative 24mm crankset options it looks like your choices are limited according to the Wheels Manufacturing website

    https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech

    Seems like Rotor have discontinued their 3D and 3D 24 product range tho you may be able to pick up a 2nd-hand one on Ebay or Gumtree

    Only others are SRAM GXP or FSA Mega Exo. RaceFace EXI is also listed but I think these may be MTB only but I'm not 100% sure
  • jpj84
    jpj84 Posts: 51
    GXP BBs don't last in my experience, I'd rather have a Shimano/FSA. But my preference is for Praxis - I've got one Alba, and two Zayantes on the go, and have yet to replace any of them
  • I'm sick of Shimano cranksets. They spend about 3 years looking hideous and then start to creak so they sound hideous as well.

    I've got a 68mm iso threaded shell on my commuter.

    What are my alternatives to ultegra?

    First Aspect, sent you a PM.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    TGOTB wrote:
    As above - GXP would do the job, but my limited experience is that the bearings don't last very long.

    FSA MegaExo is a nice option that I used to have on a CX bike; it's effectively an externally-mounted BB30 that fits into a standard ISO threaded shell and allows you to use a 30mm spindle, which is theoretically stiffer than the 24mm Hollowtech. I don't know whether that stiffness makes any practical difference, but the crankset itself is nice; it looks exactly like a BB30 but with longer spindle and different-shaped cranks to avoid increasing the Q Factor. Downside is that, just like BB30, the bearings aren't particularly well-protected from water/mud ingress.

    Rotor 3D24 is another option, which will work with your existing BB (if it still creaks, upgrade to something like a Hope BB). I've had one for best part of a decade, swapped between Road and TT bikes on an almost continuous basis, and it's totally creak-free.

    Both the above options can be fitted and removed with hex keys; no special tools required for the cranks (though the BBs still require a tool, obviously).
    Those Rotor ones are tempting. BBR60 isn't listed on their website - but they are pretty well sealed so would be a bonus if I could keep using them. Are the Rotor cranks definitely compatible?

    I use Rotor 3D24 cranks on my Reacto which is BB386 EVO, but using a Rotor Bright 4624L BB and on my Ride using a Rotor threaded BB.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    arlowood wrote:
    For alternative 24mm crankset options it looks like your choices are limited according to the Wheels Manufacturing website

    https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech

    Seems like Rotor have discontinued their 3D and 3D 24 product range tho you may be able to pick up a 2nd-hand one on Ebay or Gumtree

    Only others are SRAM GXP or FSA Mega Exo. RaceFace EXI is also listed but I think these may be MTB only but I'm not 100% sure
    The Rotor 3d24 has been replaced by the aldhu24.

    And if you're getting one of those you might as well get one that does power.... https://www.power2max.com/en/product/ng ... -set-road/
  • frisbee
    frisbee Posts: 691
    Buy an angle grinder if you get a set of FSA cranks. The extractor split and the threads ripped out on the set I had.

    I've got 2 bikes with GXP bottom brackets, one is used to commute all year round, both are still absolutely fine. Although I've also got a 30 year old non-cartridge bottom bracket that's still perfect as well...
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    frisbee wrote:
    Buy an angle grinder if you get a set of FSA cranks. The extractor split and the threads ripped out on the set I had.

    I've got 2 bikes with GXP bottom brackets, one is used to commute all year round, both are still absolutely fine. Although I've also got a 30 year old non-cartridge bottom bracket that's still perfect as well...
    Joy - I've got a 15 year old set of FSA cranks on another bike that I want to replace (53/39 isn't Dartmoor gearing and 170 is too short - bike was made for the Italian market and the must all be little there).

    Anyhow, replacement (Praxis) crank is on the way. The M30 BB is compatible with a 68mm threaded shell. Worst case is that it ends up on another bike in the end.

    My Ultegra drive side crank is now canted inwards. Makes for an interesting pedaling sensation.

    If anyone wants a LH Ultegra 5800 crank, do let me know. I now have two.
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Why more modern if its inferior?

    Sugino is still going & have a nice range of cranks pricey though.

    or

    Spécialités TA

    or

    White industries


    VBC+CRANK+VBC+SIL.jpg?format=500w

    big £££££ options
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    Moonbiker wrote:
    Why more modern if its inferior?

    Sugino is still going & have a nice range of cranks pricey though.

    or

    Spécialités TA

    or

    White industries


    VBC+CRANK+VBC+SIL.jpg?format=500w

    big £££££ options
    Do specialties ta make cranks? They make the best chainrings out there. I have a set from 1998. Admittedly they haven't been used much since about 2010 but I never managed to wear them out.
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    & don't forget Miche



    I had there Sqaure taper cranks on my first custom build/shop parts bin road bike from graham weigh.



    Yeah TA still make cranks

    https://specialites-ta.com/34-route

    Parlez-vous français?

    Also stronglight

    http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/ ... _catalogue
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 14,498
    I switched cranks. Entire outer shell of the Ultegra one was loose. Seems like it originated at the pedal end, in fact.

    Forged crank arms for me from now on!