Front wheel gets stuck to one side

Mtbrider123Mtbrider123 Posts: 128
edited 1 October in Workshop
So I have dura-ace direct mount brakes and my front wheel gets stuck to one side wheel I go out of the saddle. I have Zipp 454 (cognition hub) wheels and enve wheels with dt Swiss 240s hubs. I’ve tried each wheel with the Zipp skewer and a tune U20 skewer, the problem is with every combination. Does anyone know where the problem is and how to solve it?

Pictures of how the wheel gets stuck:

https://ibb.co/n7SPxqX
https://ibb.co/GQwq6jT

Posts

  • Is it not just the caliper moving? Tried tightening the bolt up?
  • photonic69 wrote:
    Is it not just the caliper moving? Tried tightening the bolt up?

    No, it’s direct mount, so the calliper attaches to the fork with 2 screws, one on the left side of the fork and the other one on the right side of the fork.
  • bondurantbondurant Posts: 789
    So is it the wheel moving or the caliper? Just to be clear.
  • bondurant wrote:
    So is it the wheel moving or the caliper? Just to be clear.

    Calliper is in place, wheel gets stuck to one side. If I lean the bike (with force) to the right, left side of the rim gets stuck to the left brake pad and vice versa.
  • bondurantbondurant Posts: 789
    So you're saying it is the wheel that is moving...hmmm. It initially sounded very much like the brake tension was biased too much to one side.

    The only thing I can think of in that case is how tight the QR is done up. But it sounds like you've covered that.

    How do you re-centre the wheel? Do you have to undo the QR and reseat it?
  • bondurant wrote:
    So you're saying it is the wheel that is moving...hmmm. It initially sounded very much like the brake tension was biased too much to one side.

    The only thing I can think of in that case is how tight the QR is done up. But it sounds like you've covered that.

    How do you re-centre the wheel? Do you have to undo the QR and reseat it?

    Yes, I have to undo the QR to reset it. I’ve tried to tighten both bolts on the calliper (just in case) but the wheels still move. It’s weird because there’s no problem with the rear wheels, no matter which skewers I use.
  • bondurantbondurant Posts: 789
    Well, the calliper won't be anything to do with it if the wheel is moving.

    Do you know anyone with a Shimano or Campag QR? It would be worth trying an internal cam QR, they grip much better.
  • mercia_manmercia_man Posts: 1,320
    bondurant wrote:
    Well, the calliper won't be anything to do with it if the wheel is moving.

    Do you know anyone with a Shimano or Campag QR? It would be worth trying an internal cam QR, they grip much better.

    This is a good suggestion. Sounds like the wheel is moving in the fork dropouts because your Zipp/Tune QR skewers don’t clamp hard enough. You only need a tiny movement at the dropout to pull rim over. Internal cam QR skewers such as Campag and Shimano provide much more clamping force. I’ve had this issue before with external plastic cam skewers solved by switching to Shimano.
  • Mercia Man wrote:
    bondurant wrote:
    Well, the calliper won't be anything to do with it if the wheel is moving.

    Do you know anyone with a Shimano or Campag QR? It would be worth trying an internal cam QR, they grip much better.

    This is a good suggestion. Sounds like the wheel is moving in the fork dropouts because your Zipp/Tune QR skewers don’t clamp hard enough. You only need a tiny movement at the dropout to pull rim over. Internal cam QR skewers such as Campag and Shimano provide much more clamping force. I’ve had this issue before with external plastic cam skewers solved by switching to Shimano.

    Thanks, will try with shimano skewers. The other weird thing is that this didn’t happen before, the wheel started moving not long ago.
  • bondurant wrote:
    Well, the calliper won't be anything to do with it if the wheel is moving.

    Do you know anyone with a Shimano or Campag QR? It would be worth trying an internal cam QR, they grip much better.

    Thanks, will try a shimano skewer.
  • Check the dropout for damage if a proper skewer doesnt solve it.
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,758
    Check the dropout for damage if a proper skewer doesnt solve it.

    Good call, and if you can try a DT Swiss RWS 12mm skewer (will require different end caps on your hub) but these do up really, really tight in a normal dropout. They are more like a through bolt axle and incredibly rigid and clamp incredibly tight. I use them on a disc braked bike with standard dropouts (before through bolt became the norm).

    PP
  • Pilot Pete wrote:
    Check the dropout for damage if a proper skewer doesnt solve it.

    Good call, and if you can try a DT Swiss RWS 12mm skewer (will require different end caps on your hub) but these do up really, really tight in a normal dropout. They are more like a through bolt axle and incredibly rigid and clamp incredibly tight. I use them on a disc braked bike with standard dropouts (before through bolt became the norm).

    PP

    Thanks. Will try that skewer. It looks like the skewers don’t grip well and therefore the wheel moves. It’s weird because this didn’t happen before.
  • laurentianlaurentian Posts: 1,658
    Have you checked that the two nuts on the axle are correctly tightened?

    If these are loose, it won't matter how tight your skewers are. My rear was doing exactly this a few weeks ago
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,758
    laurentian wrote:
    Have you checked that the two nuts on the axle are correctly tightened?

    If these are loose, it won't matter how tight your skewers are. My rear was doing exactly this a few weeks ago

    If you read the original post he has tried two different wheels, one of which at least (with Zipp Cognition hubs) doesn’t have any nuts on the axle to tighten. I assume you are referring to cup and cone bearings whereas those hubs (and most others) have cartridge bearings and end caps.

    PP
  • laurentianlaurentian Posts: 1,658
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    laurentian wrote:
    Have you checked that the two nuts on the axle are correctly tightened?

    If these are loose, it won't matter how tight your skewers are. My rear was doing exactly this a few weeks ago

    If you read the original post he has tried two different wheels, one of which at least (with Zipp Cognition hubs) doesn’t have any nuts on the axle to tighten. I assume you are referring to cup and cone bearings whereas those hubs (and most others) have cartridge bearings and end caps.

    PP

    Apologies to OP - must read in full!
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,758
    This is the DT Swiss front RWS throughbolt skewer which fits normal dropouts.

    DDA50-CC9-5185-4576-8338-E807-FC16-D25-D.jpg

    Here is the Zipp product guide page listing the available end caps for the Cognition hubs;

    689371-EE-1932-4-EE9-8-ABB-A9-BD6-DCA9-C86.jpg

    That is taken from this document;

    https://www.zipp.com/static/pdf/ZIPP_SPC_RevG.pdf

    The front RWS is a 9mm axle, so pick the corresponding end caps, or ask a dealer for the correct ones. This is not a cheap solution, but judging by the wheels you’ve got it will not be bank breaking. Obviously check the dropouts for obvious damage first, but these can be done up super tight. They were introduced for extra security when disc brakes came on the market before through axles on road disc bikes became the norm.

    Having taken a quick look, you might find they don’t list an end cap to fit. This is because through bolt has become the norm. I got some for my Hope hubs, then got an engineering firm to just drill out some standard end caps to fit the 9mm axle when I fitted other wheels with newer Hope hubs after they had discontinued the 9mm end caps.

    PP
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 2,007
    Over the years ive aquired all sorts of drills, milling machines and even a small lathe for doing this sort of thing and making small parts. They all lie idle of course. :)
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