Di2 using the RS910 and bar tape

Sutton_Rider

I'm looking at options for a Di2 fit. I like the RS910 (Handlebar 'A' Junction box), but wondered if its a problem when it comes to fitting the bar tape. I use a tape with a gel down the middle and I double rap it. Anyone had issues?

pilot_pete

Sutton Rider wrote:

I'm looking at options for a Di2 fit. I like the RS910 (Handlebar 'A' Junction box), but wondered if its a problem when it comes to fitting the bar tape. I use a tape with a gel down the middle and I double rap it. Anyone had issues?

There should be no issue with taping, either you have a bar that allows the Di2 wire to run inside the bar to a suitable exit point on the bar, or the cable comes out through a suitable hole and runs along the outside of the bar. Di2 cables are very small in diameter and are not noticeable under bar tape.

PP

P.s. are you in Sutton, Surrey? I used to have a flat there! I see Pearson’s are still going strong....

Sutton_Rider

No, I'm in Lincolnshire near Spalding, used to live close to Worthing and flew from Shoreham. Reading my original post I think I may have worded it badly. What I need to know is after the tape is fitted and tucked into the end of the bar will the RS910 still fit?

Alejandrosdog

Run the first layer flush to the end with no overlap. The second layer in the normal way which will keep the first layer covered and tidy and avoid having masses in the bar end.

StillGoing

Better and neater to run the eTube inside the bar if you can. Carbon bars can be difficult with all the inside rubbish that doesn't get cleaned up by the manufacturers, but with the correct tool and patience, it is achievable. Aluminium bars can be drilled to take the eTube.

Sutton_Rider

Thanks Alejanddrosdog, sounds like good advice.

pippi_langsamer-2

There is an issue with this type of bar end junction box.

There isn't really enough room to tuck the end of the tape into the bar ends as you normally would. Regardless of how it's actually wired (internally or externally), you still have to rethink your taping strategy.

I ended up cutting the end of the tape at the angle required and basically started from the end of the bar. It's not great, and regardless of how sticky your take is, it's going to be prone to coming unstuck. I've opted to secure the tape with a bit of black electrical tape wrap.

To be honest, I don't like the bar end jctn. I wouldn't bother with one again I don't think. The program button is much harder to press as it's close to edge of the barrel. This is especially difficult if you need to adjust on-the-fly, as your basically putting force on the end of the bar.

I think there's a reason most pro teams are sticking with the under stem type box...

Sutton_Rider

You make a good point Pippi, having read stuff on line and watched some YouTube I've come to the same conclusion regarding the bar tape. That's one of the reasons I asked the question, maybe someone had a magic fix. I hadn't considered the issue of changing the mode on the fly. I need to mull it over a bit more, I keep bouncing back and forth between the 'under stem' and the RS910 options. Thanks for your input.

StillGoing

Pippi Langsamer wrote:

There is an issue with this type of bar end junction box.

There isn't really enough room to tuck the end of the tape into the bar ends as you normally would. Regardless of how it's actually wired (internally or externally), you still have to rethink your taping strategy.

I ended up cutting the end of the tape at the angle required and basically started from the end of the bar. It's not great, and regardless of how sticky your take is, it's going to be prone to coming unstuck. I've opted to secure the tape with a bit of black electrical tape wrap.

To be honest, I don't like the bar end jctn. I wouldn't bother with one again I don't think. The program button is much harder to press as it's close to edge of the barrel. This is especially difficult if you need to adjust on-the-fly, as your basically putting force on the end of the bar.

I think there's a reason most pro teams are sticking with the under stem type box...

Mine's been on for well over a year this time and not come unraveled once. I did the same in cutting the tape to an angle at the end and wrapped tight. I'm using Prologo tape, but previously used Lizard Skins and that only came off as I later fitted sprint switches.

Sutton_Rider

I've made an executive decision. I'm going for the standard fit with the 3 way 'A' junction box and the WU-111. Thanks everyone for you're input.

pippi_langsamer-2

philthy3 wrote:

Pippi Langsamer wrote:

There is an issue with this type of bar end junction box.

There isn't really enough room to tuck the end of the tape into the bar ends as you normally would. Regardless of how it's actually wired (internally or externally), you still have to rethink your taping strategy.

I ended up cutting the end of the tape at the angle required and basically started from the end of the bar. It's not great, and regardless of how sticky your take is, it's going to be prone to coming unstuck. I've opted to secure the tape with a bit of black electrical tape wrap.

To be honest, I don't like the bar end jctn. I wouldn't bother with one again I don't think. The program button is much harder to press as it's close to edge of the barrel. This is especially difficult if you need to adjust on-the-fly, as your basically putting force on the end of the bar.

I think there's a reason most pro teams are sticking with the under stem type box...

Mine's been on for well over a year this time and not come unraveled once. I did the same in cutting the tape to an angle at the end and wrapped tight. I'm using Prologo tape, but previously used Lizard Skins and that only came off as I later fitted sprint switches.

I guess I just didn't want to risk the tape coming undone, so opted for the electrical tape anyway. Mines Lizard Skins DSP tape....