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Adhesive that dries solid and won't snap

MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
edited July 2019 in Workshop
Heres one for you.

Any recommendations on an adhesive that ypu could fill a tube with that when dried & cured won't snap?

#tricky
Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
smithy21 wrote:

He's right you know.

Posts

  • photonic69photonic69 Posts: 994
    2 Part epoxy like Araldite? Depends on size of tube and what you want to do with it? If it is a bike pump size tube then Araldite might work out a tad expensive.

    Car body filler for bigger volumes?
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    photonic69 wrote:
    2 Part epoxy like Araldite? Depends on size of tube and what you want to do with it? If it is a bike pump size tube then Araldite might work out a tad expensive.

    Car body filler for bigger volumes?

    seat post size so Araldite is - as you say - too expensive.

    big can of Evo Stik contact adhesive?

    was even thinking that windscreen glue - get long tubes of it for £13 so not too bad.......

    #stickysituation
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • oxomanoxoman Posts: 7,327
    What kind of strength are you looking for. Ford used to fill the door pillars on some of there estate cars with polyurethane foam to stop stress cracks forming, only found out when mine cracked as it hadn't got any in. You can buy pu aerosols from most diy shops if needed.
    Too many bikes according to Mrs O.
  • lesfirthlesfirth Posts: 999
    There is car 2pack bodyfiller with chopped fibreglass strands in it. Any car part shop should stock it.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    oxoman wrote:
    What kind of strength are you looking for. Ford used to fill the door pillars on some of there estate cars with polyurethane foam to stop stress cracks forming, only found out when mine cracked as it hadn't got any in. You can buy pu aerosols from most diy shops if needed.

    strong as so no chance of snapping. really. not too wottied about weight, just strength as a priority.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • sungodsungod Posts: 12,205
    you don't say what the application is, makes a difference to options

    generically consider a slow-cure two-part epoxy designed for pouring and casting*, you can mix in cf filler to add strength, or if there's access strips of cf (soak it in resin first and squish to exclude air), if there's good access you could even bond a cf tube/other profile inside it

    *unless it's a narrow tube i'd use a product designed for casting, not laminating - fast cure laminating resins can generate a lot of heat, that's fine if the resin is spread out, but could get nasty in volume with a small surface area (like a mixing pot, or a tube...)

    you can get resin and cf filler powder here...
    https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/
    ...do read the safety and technical info :D
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,286
    Would it not be easier if you tell us what you're actually trying to make?
    Or is it top secret stuff because you've got a contract to supply the Chinese government thugs with sticks for bashing protesters in Hong Kong?
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,839
    Gripfill.

    PP
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    keef66 wrote:
    Would it not be easier if you tell us what you're actually trying to make?
    Or is it top secret stuff because you've got a contract to supply the Chinese government thugs with sticks for bashing protesters in Hong Kong?

    thats the alternative option but its to fill a Cervelo Soloist seat post that has broken in two....

    £utterly obscene for a new one for a bike that will be used (literally) four times every two years..... nah. fill the censored and see how it lasts

    then when it breaks, yes, beat protestors with it.

    #tightas
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    Gripfill.

    PP

    this stuff?

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-adh ... 50ml/10261

    price looks good.....

    thankyou

    #gratitude
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    lesfirth wrote:
    There is car 2pack bodyfiller with chopped fibreglass strands in it. Any car part shop should stock it.

    sounds cool - any links?

    #gratitude
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    sungod wrote:
    you don't say what the application is, makes a difference to options

    generically consider a slow-cure two-part epoxy designed for pouring and casting*, you can mix in cf filler to add strength, or if there's access strips of cf (soak it in resin first and squish to exclude air), if there's good access you could even bond a cf tube/other profile inside it

    *unless it's a narrow tube i'd use a product designed for casting, not laminating - fast cure laminating resins can generate a lot of heat, that's fine if the resin is spread out, but could get nasty in volume with a small surface area (like a mixing pot, or a tube...)

    you can get resin and cf filler powder here...
    https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/
    ...do read the safety and technical info :D

    so pouring a load down broken seat to bond the two parts together and make it solid may cause a heat problem?

    could this go wrong?

    #aaarrrgghhfire
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • sungodsungod Posts: 12,205
    cf doesn't conduct heat well, so pouring a load of fast cure resin in might get toasty, best to use a slow cure

    i wouldn't trust resin alone for a seat post, measure the inside, i'm sure you can insert a bundle of cf rods or strips to pack the void as tight as possible, then fill the gaps with resin (in practice you'd need to get it all coated then push it in wet), or just wrap the outside in a few layers of cf if there's clearance between the break and frame

    you could get a quote from a cf repair company, but may not be economic

    have you checked for third-party posts? hylix maybe https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hylix ... o+seatpost
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    top stuff - thankyou.

    aftermarket you're still looking at £70 a pop, so on the steep side for a very limited use bike.

    was thinking about fibreglassing the censored completely from the inside but its such a tight fit. also tried making a sheet metal insert to run all the way up but again, such a tight fit it mashes.

    rationale behind filling it is if it works, winner, if it doesn't nothing to lose really.

    perfect world would be to find a 2nd hand ali seatpost but as this version of the Soloist cracked along the top of the seat collar on the frame theres limited amount of them floating around.....

    #nocufftootough
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • homers_doublehomers_double Posts: 6,445
    They're on ebay for about £35. Stop being a tight censored , or you might end up with a rather cut up censored .
    Advocate of disc brakes.
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,839
    Not sure I would trust gripfill not to snap if being used to hold a broken seat tube together! :shock:

    PP
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    They're on ebay for about £35. Stop being a tight ars*, or you might end up with a rather cut up ars*.


    link? can't see them for that price - if they are that bargain winner.

    #couldbeontoawinner
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • homers_doublehomers_double Posts: 6,445
    Ah, my speedy googling didn't tell me that "soloist" had been omitted from the search... My bad

    #mybad
    Advocate of disc brakes.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    Ah, my speedy googling didn't tell me that "soloist" had been omitted from the search... My bad

    #mybad

    no problem - thank you very much for looking.

    may just ram it full of fibreglass......

    #carpediem
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • pilot_petepilot_pete Posts: 1,839
    Is it round? If so, how about bonding a slightly smaller metal tube inside it? That would stand more chance of holding firm. Alternatively, if it’s broken significantly above the insertion point what about a carbon fibre repair on the outside?

    PP
  • flasherflasher Posts: 1,620
    Sounds like a recipe for disaster, buy a new seat post and be done with it.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    Is it round? If so, how about bonding a slightly smaller metal tube inside it? That would stand more chance of holding firm. Alternatively, if it’s broken significantly above the insertion point what about a carbon fibre repair on the outside?

    PP

    agree 100% re round solution - I had a cheapo round carbon seat post on the winter bike crack on me once so borrowed a long length of copper pipe from friendly plumber and smacked it up there - holds perfect and 2 years on is still a winner.

    Annoying thing is this was caused by the infamous Soloist frame crack so its exactly at the point where, when set up perfectly, the clamp is, so can't raise higher to accomodate external band of c/f.

    thank you for your ponderings - very much appreciated.

    #dilemma
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,571
    bizarre that you posted this just as MF was trying some hollow ali tibing hes has in the garage for size. thank you for the idea though

    He is presuming tubes are stronger than flat, so plans is:

    tape brokens halves together
    whack a shed load of adhesive in
    whack hollow rods in
    leave for weeks to set
    give it a bash - if it goes its not going to go in one hit, it'll just crack again

    shouldn't add too much weight overall......

    #giveitabash
    #nothingtolose
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • webboowebboo Posts: 2,127
    3 or 4 welding rods shoved in then pack with concrete. :D
  • lesfirthlesfirth Posts: 999
    flasher wrote:
    Sounds like a recipe for disaster, buy a new seat post and be done with it.

    Just what I thought. FFS MF, stop Fing about . £30 chinese carbon seat post of E bay and get on with life. I cant believe this thread has gone on so long. If you had told us what you were planning in your first post we could have saved a whole load of time.
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