Di2 FD not shifting well with 53/38

abtrumpet

Ok, so I already ran a thread before as to why I'm doing this, so I'll skip that rationale. Here is what I've got:

SRAM Force 22 172.5 cranks
Quarq Riken PM/Spider (this one seems to be incompatible with SRAM 22? Not sure)
Praxis LevaTime 53T (brand new)
Sugino 38T inner (brand new)
Di2 Ultegra 6870
Wipperman Chain (brand new)

I have tried realigning the FD probably 10 times, sometimes with more success than others. Basically, when I shift from small to big ring, it often takes a while or fails to shift entirely, instead forcing the chain against the big ring but not catching the ramps. It is also much worse if I shift going uphill vs down. Shifting from big to small is mostly flawless.

me-109

That sounds like the inner limit is too far on-board, so that it is not travelling out far enough. Is it worse on the outer cassette sprockets than on the innermost ones?

abtrumpet

It seems to be worse on the innermost sprockets, actually.

pilot_pete

Yes, surely the FD is not pushing the chain far enough outboard to shift up to the big ring? Either that or the big chainring shift ramps/pins are fooked (much less likely).

Are you following the Shimano Dealer Manual guidance for adjusting the FD?

PP

bongobiggins

Not sure how much of a difference it makes but have you made sure the chainring setting is right on the E-tube app? Think you can only set it to 52/38 though.

sandyballs

Have you checked that the chainring is correctly aligned with the crank arm in terms of pick up pins? Since SRAM started using hidden bolts and all that the pick up pins were located specifically with crank arm alignment written on the chain rings. I note your using Praxis but check orientation of the pins.

abtrumpet

Yeah, I double checked the chainrings, and they are oriented correctly on the crank. The pin on the big ring is right under the crank. The sugino has no markings telling me how to orient it other than the logo.

I did not know the etube project had a setting for ring size, but I didn't check that. I'll check it tonight and see if that helps it work better. Also, the derailleur outer cage is parallel with the outer chainring. And, I did install it 100% exactly according to "the book." First, I used Zinn's guide, then I used the Shimano documentation, which is basically the same. By all accounts, it is aligned perfectly, yet it shifts like ****. I'll keep looking into it!

StillGoing

I find that Di2 doesn't like you holding the button to change on the front and will struggle as a consequence. A simple single press of the button and it changes without issue.

abtrumpet

It just keeps confusing me. It will shift fine in the stand, but put it on the ground and under my torque, it shifts very poorly. I wonder if that has to do with my Soloist frame flexing? I also tried a Shimano compact crank. Still had the issues, just doesn't go far enough outboard. Could it be a bad derailleur?

abtrumpet

One thing I noticed: the bolt that pushes against the plate which pushes against the frame -- that's too short. It doesn't make contact. I need to buy a longer one to make it work properly. That might the cause -- no bolt, too much flex in the derailleur, etc. I will change that and update the thread if that helps.

I searched to find a LBS that knows Di2 super well, but I'm not sure who around here does. I don't just want to take it to any LBS and blow my money...could use the PCE tool though.

StillGoing

Did you fit the small metal square onto the frame for the screw to push against?

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... stallation

abtrumpet

I did everything Shimano said and it still shifts like crap. I put a 50/34 shimano crank on and it is slightly better, but in the smaller cogs, it does not shift at all. Sometimes the lower part of the chain will catch the teeth and then get stuck in the derailleur backside! Maybe the motor is worn out? I'm using a 11-32t cassette, btw.