Frame Blanking

diamonddog
diamonddog Posts: 3,426
edited July 2019 in Road buying advice
My Canyon CF is being converted to SRAM Etap which will leave a couple of holes on the down tube that need blanking off.
I have looked on the internet but have been defeated, any ideas if anything is available.
Cheers

Comments

  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,430
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • diamonddog
    diamonddog Posts: 3,426
    Cheers, good shout.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,430
    btw i used some for the same purpose, early 2016

    degreased the area with isopropyl alcohol, moulded a piece in and smoothed it, after many hot/cold/wet/dusty rides it's still fine
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Sugru is brilliant. I pinged off one of my mudguard stay nuts years back. Replaced it with Sugru and it's lasted through 1000s of miles and nasty winters.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 632
    I used Sugru on my PlanetX frame when I fitted Etap.

    You can even pick a colour that matches some part of the bike :D
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Ive used it extensively. I mount Di2 Junction A boxes under the stem with it, which gets rid of the ugly rubber strap (admittedly there are now bar end Junction As available). I blanked frame ports with it and made a custom ‘grommet’ for where the rear derailleur Di2 cable came out of the frame. I have also used it to to make a rubber gasket to stop a mudguard plastic mount rattling.

    It is extremely versatile, as others have said available in a variety of colours (I’ve never been brave enough to use anything other than black!) but the one downside is if you only need a tiny bit you can waste a fair chunk as once the sachet is open it starts to go off...

    PP
  • diamonddog
    diamonddog Posts: 3,426
    Cheers peoples :D
  • pauly69
    pauly69 Posts: 101
    This stuff sounds great, but is it really simple to work with? Say I have a nice round hole in my frame for a di2 wire, but I'm on etap - do I just bung a chunk in and flatten it off, or is it feasible to shape something more intricate / professional looking like a proper rubber bung?
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,430
    easy to use, look at the sugru website

    i just made it flush to the surface, that looks way better than a bung/similar that'd typically have a raised lump sticking out
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • pauly69
    pauly69 Posts: 101
    Cheers, will take a look :)
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Manglier wrote:

    Fair enough - but then you're left with 123 or so assorted grommets that will clutter up your spares drawer. Suppose you could always get creative and fashion some trendy bracelets or necklaces from the left overs.

    I'm guessing the left over Sugru might be a bit more useful
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Twice around with electrical tape.
  • Riv nuts?
  • Another shout for Sugru. As above, used it to mount an understem Di2 junction box, and replace the naff Di2 frame grommets.

    It doesn't last long after it's been opened though, despite attempts to keep it airtight, so try use it up rather than store it. I also used some to reinforce the end of those naff iPad charge cables that always crack/ split...
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    And the other top tip is to ask the seller what the use by date is when considering purchasing. If you don’t use it immediately it lasts longer stored in the freezer.

    To apply, clean the area you want it to adhere to using isopropyl alcohol or something similar. Work the Sugru between your fingers; it’s just like blue tac. As you roll it around it warms up and gets more malleable. To cover a frame port take a reasonable sized chunk and push it into the hole - I’m talking a hole the size of a cable outer, not something like a big slot that would normally have a plastic blanking plate - there is only so much that Sugru can fill without support in terms of a hole.

    Rub it flush with the surface and then use something like a old credit card or straight edge to clean up the surface and remove any excess that is standing proud. Once you have done this you can use a wet finger and smooth the surface to a perfect finish. If you mess it up just put some more on and repeat the process until you get the finish you want before leaving it to cure. I leave it 24hrs if it is going to be used to hold something onto something such as the di2 junction A under a stem - support it while it sets with something like masking tape to hold it in place, but don’t do it too tight as you could squeeze it out between your parts and end up with not enough in there to make a solid bond.

    It is also easy to remove if required and clean up any residue, but will hold firm on most surfaces - I did find it wouldn’t hold to certain hard plastics - maybe some sort of primer could assist with that. It is really great stuff though and very easy to work with.

    PP