Premium gear cable brand
Having issues with rear shifting, it often jumps two sprockets higher up the block, or doesn't quite line up.
Have replaced inner and outer cable, chain and cassette. It's still happening.
I normally use Yokozuna cables but they seem to now be unavailable, I am not 100% sure that the inner and outer I put on are matching (possibly yokozuna outer but a different poorer quality inner) hence the dodgy shifting. Last possibility is a bent hanger but I don't think it's that.
Therefore I am looking for another high quality shift cable brand as Yokozuna were brilliant and lasted absolutely ages.
Any recommendations? Anyone used Yokozuna, DA and Nokon and can compare? Any others? Thanks
Have replaced inner and outer cable, chain and cassette. It's still happening.
I normally use Yokozuna cables but they seem to now be unavailable, I am not 100% sure that the inner and outer I put on are matching (possibly yokozuna outer but a different poorer quality inner) hence the dodgy shifting. Last possibility is a bent hanger but I don't think it's that.
Therefore I am looking for another high quality shift cable brand as Yokozuna were brilliant and lasted absolutely ages.
Any recommendations? Anyone used Yokozuna, DA and Nokon and can compare? Any others? Thanks
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Comments
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Have you tried indexing the rd ?0
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Lincolndave wrote:Have you tried indexing the rd ?
Yes, it's not that. Gear changes have been perfect for several years. Only two possibilities are bent hanger or the cable/routing.0 -
if it worked perfectly before and you haven't changed the routing it would point at a bent hanger tbh. we'd swap it over if we were you
#benthangerPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I find that hangers have to be very bent (enough to seen by eye) to affect gear changes to the degree described. Have you mounted the cable correctly (on the derailleur) using the right side of the clamp bolt? If the shifters are very old, the internal grease can dry up- a clean and relube can restore function. Ensure the derailleur is moving freely at the pivots- lube if necessary. Also, check the bottom bracket cable guide isn't worn (deep grooves).0
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As for "Premium" cables, just use standard Shimano ss. They'll work perfectly well enough. The PTFE coated (DA) ones are a bastard to use as the coating strips really easily.0
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I've found the opposite and a slightly bent hanger, apparently OK to the naked eye, can make it difficult to get the indexing right. The right tool is cheap enough, and makes it easy to both check and adjust the hanger.
I'm often amazed by how far out they can be, and in both the vertical and longitudinal planes.
I only use the standard Shimano stainless inners and SP41 outer. All my stuff is older 10 speed or less though. No experience with 11 speed gear for which Shimano seem to recommend more sophisticated cables / peculiar end caps etc.
What's the difference between the PTFE coated and polymer coated cable?
I get the feeling that PTFE is black stuff which has a reputation for peeling off and bunging things up. What's the polymer?0 -
keef66 wrote:I've found the opposite and a slightly bent hanger, apparently OK to the naked eye, can make it difficult to get the indexing right. The right tool is cheap enough, and makes it easy to both check and adjust the hanger.
I'm often amazed by how far out they can be, and in both the vertical and longitudinal planes.
I only use the standard Shimano stainless inners and SP41 outer. All my stuff is older 10 speed or less though. No experience with 11 speed gear for which Shimano seem to recommend more sophisticated cables / peculiar end caps etc.
What's the difference between the PTFE coated and polymer coated cable?
I get the feeling that PTFE is black stuff which has a reputation for peeling off and bunging things up. What's the polymer?
The polymer is brown stuff that peels off and bungs things up
Ive only had good results with them though0 -
Polymer coated for me every time now.
Agree sounds like mech needs overhaul if cables replaced and smooth.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0 -
I would bang on about Campag cables being great but I won't...seanoconn - gruagach craic!0
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What Pinno said ........
And deffo don’t buy Dura Ace coated cables. As mentioned, coating comes off and jams things up. Just buy plain vanilla stainless.
PS check for bent gear hanger. In my experience even slightly bent is enough to make gear indexing difficult.0 -
Oh yeah, did anyone say to check the rear hanger alignment?seanoconn - gruagach craic!0
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Cable routing, especially where the cable is clamped to the RD sounds most likely if nothing else has changed.
PP0 -
Pilot Pete wrote:Cable routing, especially where the cable is clamped to the RD sounds most likely if nothing else has changed.
PP
What - no gear hanger alignment advice!?seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
It won’t be the cable. Check the gear mech hanger. Okay?0
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proto wrote:It won’t be the cable. Check the gear mech hanger. Okay?
That's the sort of advice that the OP needs.
Just slightly off topic but Shimano cables have a habit of fraying as it enters the rear mech cable outer on the chain stay.
When you've checked that, have a look at the rear hanger alignment.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Another option might be the simple adjuster screw.
I have had an issue with chain noise from my rear mech due to it not being aligned just right with the cassette. I thought I had it sorted having played with it on my workstand, but out on the road on Saturday the noise was back and it was either failing to change cogs or jumping two. I prepared myself mentally for a painful fettling ride, but my first adjustment of one turn of the cable adjuster placed the rear mech right in the sweet spot.
I was amazed that one turn of the screw could make that much difference.
So it might be that...or a bent rear hanger.Half man, Half bike0 -
Escher303 wrote:Lincolndave wrote:Have you tried indexing the rd ?
Yes, it's not that. Gear changes have been perfect for several years. Only two possibilities are bent hanger or the cable/routing.
Cables also stretch over time...Half man, Half bike0 -
Adjustment of the 'B' screw?
Failing that, rear hanger alignment.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Ridgerider wrote:Escher303 wrote:Lincolndave wrote:Have you tried indexing the rd ?
Yes, it's not that. Gear changes have been perfect for several years. Only two possibilities are bent hanger or the cable/routing.
Cables also stretch over time...FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0 -
Stretched cables and a bent hanger!
Who'd have thought...seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
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Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch.*
* Gear cables can sometimes appear to stretch because on a new build the outer cables and ferrules ‘settle down’ after use, effectively shortening them by a small amount. Decent preparation and assembly helps prevent this. I’m always amazed at the number of builders who use pliers or cable cutters to cut the outer cables, and then fail to tidy up the ends. I always grind the ends square.
PS was the mech hanger bent?0 -
OP, have you checked the mech hanger alignment?Ben
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proto wrote:Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch.*
* Gear cables can sometimes appear to stretch because on a new build the outer cables and ferrules ‘settle down’ after use, effectively shortening them by a small amount. Decent preparation and assembly helps prevent this. I’m always amazed at the number of builders who use pliers or cable cutters to cut the outer cables, and then fail to tidy up the ends. I always grind the ends square.
PS was the mech hanger bent?
Yes, if the cable outers are not cut straight, there's a bit of spring in them. (2nd from left)
But bent rear mech hangers cause all sorts of problems.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Those all look like brake outers to me...
I'm a big fan of using the Dremel to finish cut ends of gear and brake outers. Curiously satisfying.
And another tip which makes sense is for the final loop of outer before the RD; cable-tie it into it's finished shape before finishing the ends so they will be properly square before you fit the end caps and install it.0 -
I wouldn’t even be happy with the one on the right.
Get yourself a grinder. About £20 from Screwfix.0 -
Pinno wrote:proto wrote:Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch. Gear cables don’t stretch.*
* Gear cables can sometimes appear to stretch because on a new build the outer cables and ferrules ‘settle down’ after use, effectively shortening them by a small amount. Decent preparation and assembly helps prevent this. I’m always amazed at the number of builders who use pliers or cable cutters to cut the outer cables, and then fail to tidy up the ends. I always grind the ends square.
PS was the mech hanger bent?
Yes, if the cable outers are not cut straight, there's a bit of spring in them. (2nd from left)
But bent rear mech hangers cause all sorts of problems.
those awful. did someone get their pet dog to bite through them?
#woofbarkPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
#muppetfest0