Front Derailleur shifting issues

rob39
rob39 Posts: 479
edited May 2019 in Workshop
Running 105 11sp 11-32 cassette starting to notice shifting from the small ring to the big ring, the chain does not shift properly unless I change down to the middle gears on the cassette 16-14-13 & so on (impossible in the 32-28-25-22-18t gear) I don't have barrel adjusters as cables are internal. Ideas of sorting this out.

Comments

  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    My solution to the problem after a lot of time and fiddling was to fit an inline cable adjuster.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    rob39 wrote:
    Running 105 11sp 11-32 cassette starting to notice shifting from the small ring to the big ring, the chain does not shift properly unless I change down to the middle gears on the cassette 16-14-13 & so on (impossible in the 32-28-25-22-18t gear) I don't have barrel adjusters as cables are internal. Ideas of sorting this out.

    Which version of 11 speed 105 are you using. With 5800 you would be advised to fit in inline barrel adjuster. However with R7000 the FD has the new design with a cable tension device inbuilt
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,138
    if it used to work:

    try increasing the fd cable tension a smidge (perhaps it slipped a bit), put the fd in small ring position, mark cable position at the clamp, grip end of cable with pliers, loosen clamp until you can pull the cable a couple of mm tighter, reclamp

    if it's never worked, do the basics:

    verify the rd model you have is rated for the capacity needed for your cassette-chainring combination

    check the chain length is correct, i.e. not to tight (do what the instructions for your specific mode of rd say say, not some generic method)

    check the fd is aligned correctly, and limit screws set correctly (do what the instructions for your specific model fd say, not some generic method)
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • rob39
    rob39 Posts: 479
    It's 105 5800 & Rd is rated to take 11-32, once I get to the middle of the cassette the fd changes perfectly its just doesn't shift over attempts to but doesn't fully connect with big CR from the 32 down to about the 18/16t sprocket
  • chris_bass
    chris_bass Posts: 4,913
    the way i index my front mech is to over tighten the limit screw so it pushes it out too far (i.e. the chain rubs when in the small ring and bigger cogs at the back) then pull the cable through and then back the screw off. Usually there is still a little play in the cable so the mech backs off and the chain no longer rubs. get's round not having enough hands, to pull the cable trough, keep it tight and tighten the bolt at the same time!

    might take a couple of goes but seems to work for me
    www.conjunctivitis.com - a site for sore eyes
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You're definitely giving the lever the full sweep across, not just to the trim position?

    As above, did it work before?

    Sounds like it just needs a bit more cable tension, the outer limit screw tweaking, or the cage alignment adjusting.

    I often find with FDs it's easier to start from scratch using the procedure described by Shimano for the model in question. I've kept the little plastic thing you stick in the parallellogram for that very purpose.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Chris Bass wrote:
    the way i index my front mech is to over tighten the limit screw so it pushes it out too far (i.e. the chain rubs when in the small ring and bigger cogs at the back) then pull the cable through and then back the screw off. Usually there is still a little play in the cable so the mech backs off and the chain no longer rubs. get's round not having enough hands, to pull the cable trough, keep it tight and tighten the bolt at the same time!

    might take a couple of goes but seems to work for me

    I've seen that trick suggested before. Genius.
  • chris_bass
    chris_bass Posts: 4,913
    keef66 wrote:
    Chris Bass wrote:
    the way i index my front mech is to over tighten the limit screw so it pushes it out too far (i.e. the chain rubs when in the small ring and bigger cogs at the back) then pull the cable through and then back the screw off. Usually there is still a little play in the cable so the mech backs off and the chain no longer rubs. get's round not having enough hands, to pull the cable trough, keep it tight and tighten the bolt at the same time!

    might take a couple of goes but seems to work for me

    I've seen that trick suggested before. Genius.

    yeah, as long as you remember to move the limit screw back again after!
    www.conjunctivitis.com - a site for sore eyes